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Drag Saw Collectors Water cooled drag saws; Hercules, Ottawa, Wade, Vaughan, Witte, Timberwolf and Multnomah

Drag Saw Collectors

Wade Mod. 8SM1 drag saw rebuild


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  #1  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:45:30 PM
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kidatheart kidatheart is offline
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Default Wade Mod. 8SM1 drag saw rebuild

It has been sometime since my last post. Nothing much has changed except I'm older and less wiser. I have started the work on my saw and feel excited on the opportunity to relive a past life.
I hope to be including some pictures but am somewhat restricted on site by size and time.
Today I set up a jig and poured a new babbitt bearing for the connecting rod. Never having done this before, I must say it was quite challenging and truly a "hit and miss" experience. After several tries, I accomplished what I set out to do and hope you find what I have done, informative.

Since I am in the process of reinstalling the parts, I have several questions you may have the answer too.
1. Is there a torque specification on the connecting rod for the capbolts and wrist pin.
2. Does the crankcase contain oil? If so, type and amount
3. My information calls for a "hard grease" to be used in grease cups?

Any response would be appreciated.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:30:44 AM
Doug Tallman Doug Tallman is online now
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Default Re: Wade Mod. 8SM1 drag saw rebuild

There really isn't a torque spec. You could use the generic torque chart for the size of fastener but some of the old hardware may not take that. It's more tight's tight and too tight is broke.

No oil in the crankcase. It is a 2 stroke engine. Some have the drip oiler that is supposed to add enough lube to suffice. I like to add a little in the gas for added insurance.

The grease cups take grease for the mains. About anything will work. Back then they called gear lube liquid grease. So solid grease was hard grease.
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Old 04-05-2019, 01:22:21 AM
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Default Re: Wade Mod. 8SM1 drag saw rebuild

Sorry for my delay in responding to you. Thought I would get a notification when someone responds but apparently that is not the case. My bad! Anyway I appreciate your thoughts on this project.
I tightened up the rod caps with a 3/8ís open end and snugged down the cover bolts too.
I have spent these last couple of days sandblasting and cleaning parts. I painted the cast parts flat black, frame flat forest green and the tin/tanks will be red. At least, according to an article I read reflects the original colors.
I am trying to figure out how to set up my timeing assembly since there are no timing marks to go buy...any thoughts would be appreciated especially a picture would be nice.
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