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Magnetos, Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs Discussion about magnetos, buzz coils, spark plugs, ignitors and low tension coils.

Magnetos, Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs

Sears and Roebuck Engine


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  #1  
Old 04-01-2018, 09:20:04 PM
GameFarmOne GameFarmOne is offline
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Default Sears and Roebuck Engine

I just bought a little engine that was sold by Sears and Roebuck.
Have no idea whether it is a Briggs, or maybe a Tecumseh?
I need the ignition coil for it.
It initially started, and ran on a weak spark, then would only hit occasionally, now nothing.
Great compression, fuel is getting through.- Just no spark now.
The numbers on the tag are 500, followed by 306113.
Does anybody know who the manufacturer would be, and where I could find a replacement coil?
The serial number on the tag is 586414.
Thanks,

gamefarmone
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:52:30 PM
GameFarmOne GameFarmOne is offline
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Default Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

Almost forgot to post a picture of the engine.
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:08:05 PM
Antiquebriggsguy Antiquebriggsguy is offline
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Default Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

hello its a briggs and stratton engine. ive had a pile of them and only came across 2 bad coils like that. so id say most likely clean points real well and possibly condenser. cant really coment anymore on engine as the pics are so tiny for me and cant see much.
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:16:15 PM
Tom G Tom G is offline
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Default Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

Sears 500 series engines are Briggs engines. As Antiquebriggsguy has already stated, cleaning the points and possibly replacing the condenser will likely get it running again. BTDT myself.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:33:39 PM
gdstew gdstew is offline
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Default Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

The 500 is Sears, then going by the spec number it is a model N
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:20:12 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

The coils seldom go bad in these engines. Clean points. Set at .020", place a white business card between the closed points and draw out slightly. Open points and remove card. When the card comes out clean, the points are clean. Any grey or black, you need to clean and again try the card. Do not just pull it out, the paper may tear and et stuck between the points. Plug gap .025" Magneto gap is also important. Loosen all 4 mount screws or bolts, and raise the magneto to its highest point. Secure by tightening 2 bolts. Take a 3x5 index card and place it under the magneto armature. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the magneto, and loosen the screws / bolts and let the magneto armature settle onto the flywheel. IMPORTANT: LIFT up on the flywheel and THEN tighten the mag mount screws / bolts. This will ensure that worn crankshaft bearings will not allow the flywheel to hit the magneto armature. remove the card, and you should be set. Reddish or purplish spark - bad condenser.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:45:49 PM
GameFarmOne GameFarmOne is offline
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Default Re: Sears and Roebuck Engine

Thanks for all the help- everybody was exactly right.
I replaced the condenser for a second time, adjusted the points, and after splicing a piece of wire onto the grounded coil wire to give me a little more slack, had all kinds of spark.
She needs a little carburetor adjusting, (runs a little rough without keeping your finger on the throttle) but with a few minor adjustments and a new throttle spring, think she'll run just fine. Also have a small needle valve leak, so might also need a new seat.
At my age, every year most of the flywheel engine projects seem to get harder to move around the shop, so these little engines might just be my salvation in the very near future.
Thanks again for all the good advice.

gamefarmone
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