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Maytag Engine Collectibles Maytag engines, washing machines, mowers and other engine driven tools for the farm.

Maytag Engine Collectibles

Maytag Model #31


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  #11  
Old 05-11-2018, 08:46:51 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default #31 Maytag Update

Ref: background on this post 5/7/18

Honed cylinder & installed new rings. Watched a video on the air valve, saw my seat was upside down. Removed the air valve seat; polished both parts and reinstalled to proper depth. All passages in carb are clean as can be as is the pick up tube and filter.
Pushed the start lever down a couple times and it fired, smoked good and then kicked back. Tried it again with the same results, and then nothing would happen with the pedal or the drill turning it over.
Crank bearing/seals are very tight.
Not sucking air there.
With honed cylinder , new rings and head gasket properly installed compression has not changed much. Don't understand that.
I will probably order new air valve, spring and seat.
Timing tool
condenser
New lead washers
New plug wire
No real reason to replace a couple parts, but, what the hell! I am at the point where I want it to run no matter what.
I want to check the timing and the lead washers for the carb mount are not the best.
Spark is not the greatest, but, it should fire.
I know there are lots of things that can cause a motor to not run after setting in an enclosed shop for 4 years. I think I have checked them all.
After reading this post and the earlier one if anyone has any idea what I could try I would really appreciate your response.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2018, 09:20:22 PM
briggsoverload briggsoverload is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Compression won't improve until it's been run a little bit to get the rings seated. After it wouldn't fire, was it getting too much or not enough fuel? One thing is I always use a gasket sealer around the carb.
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2018, 07:01:35 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Evan though I have never used gasket sealer on the carb gasket I tried it. Made some new carb bolt gaskets out of gasket paper, pushed the pedal down and it fired once and smoked. Cool, I'm thinking! But, after repeated pushes on the pedal and using a big drill it would not do anything more. Tried adjusting the gas valve in/out, it would smoke some but made no difference. Ever once in a great while it would pop once and that would be all.
So, what's left? Any suggestions anyone?
I'm going to order some more items to replace parts that could be the problem. I hate doing that so I will replace one component, try that and then move to the next one.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2018, 07:13:31 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Well, I'm wrestling with one, for a friend, sorta doing the same thing. I filled the tank with fuel and when I kick it, fuel sprays out the hole in the fill plug. That tells me the poppet valve in the carb is not sealing off. Years ago, I turned a 7/8" socket down on the outside to remove the brass nut. I gave my son my big tool box, he's going to look for it for me. Either the spring is bad or the brass valve is not sealing off. It will pop once and thats it. Check the seal of yours to insure it's closing off good, OBTY I did check the check valve, It's working properly. Only other thing is compression leaking by piston as it goes forward, killing the fuel drawing ability.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2018, 08:19:27 PM
Kevin Weis Kevin Weis is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

That air valve spring is very specific. You will need to order one from a supplier for it to be right. Also smoke but no explosion sends a message to me of being too rich a fuel mixture or to weak a spark or both. If you feel some compression when it reaches TDC then it has enough. Check your point gap and spark plug gap I think is the first order of business then the timing. If the carberator has been monkeyed with then per above install a new air valve spring. Then check check valve pick up tube. It must be able to keep fuel in the tube and not drain back into the tank. Last but not least, check to make sure coil is hot. If it is not, none of the above will matter. These are basics but 95% of the time one or a sum of these is the culprit, not impression or leakage at the bearings or carb flange. To note though, the carb is supposed to be sealed at the gasket with gasket cement/sealant and also the brass screws have a lead washer under each head to seal the screws as well. Kevin
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  #16  
Old 05-13-2018, 08:32:19 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Up on all that, thanks Kevin, good spark, good compression, new check that's working properly, new gasket, lead washers are good. Fuel into the crankcase is the prob. When I get that socket back and get it apart, I'll replace the spring and seat the poppet valve if necessary. Thanks for the suggestions.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2018, 04:46:51 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Check your spark plug for wet fouling. the 'new' E-10 crap gas will short under compression. Use an older spark plug. The new ones without the glazed insulator won't work well. The original champion maytag plug, champion gas engine special #34 are best. The older 2 piece A-25 will work too, the new one piece A-25, not too good. The champion X (old) will work too. if you think timing is off, get a hiold of Mark Shulaw, here on the stak, and have him set up your mag for you. the over the counter 'timing tools' don't work so well.

As for compression, once you have your engine running, you need to load it to set and seal the rings. just 'idling' will not seal them.
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  #18  
Old 05-17-2018, 05:05:39 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Found my problem, brand new check valve. Had to do away with the flap disk and put a brass ball in it. It was picking up but the disc didn't settle back on the seat. Ball was heavy enough to lift up and fall back in place.
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  #19  
Old 05-25-2018, 09:57:06 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Mod 31 update #2

After a lot of bucks it starts very easy and I have the idle down to about 700 RPM's. New coil and condenser seem to be the final cure. Thanks to those who offered suggestions.
Tom/Idaho
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