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Maytag Engine Collectibles

Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay


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  #1  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:45:47 PM
MayITagAlong MayITagAlong is offline
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Default Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

Folks,

I just acquired a model 92 Maytag engine with intent of mounting it onto a model 31 washer that I have had for years. I have little experience with these engines but have been involved with machinery and mechanics for many years. I have restored many tractors and rebuilt numerous engines so the task of getting this engine running well doesn't intimidate me. However, a few questions prior to diving into it may save some headaches downline as my experience with 2 cycle engines is minimal at best. The serial number of this engine is #645540 which as best as I can tell makes it a '35 vintage. It has sat for some time but I don't have a history on it as the fellow I bought it from jointly bought it with several other varied hit and miss engines to flip. It will start and run just long enough to get going then dies (1/2 a minute or so). I'm hoping someone with experience with these engines can guide me to a place to start looking for the cause of this. Also, in basically checking things out I noticed the engine has very little side to side endplay in the flywheel/crankshaft which is a good thing. However, in placing a couple of pencil marks on the perimeter of the flywheel it will rotate approximately 1/8" before the play in the wristpin/rod/crank is consumed. With the flywheel flat surface area being 10 1/2" in diameter this figures out to be 1.36 degrees of slack. To you folks in the know does that sound excessive? Any information anyone could offer would be honored and appreciated. Thanks in advance...........Gary
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:02:01 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

On the slack, I'd say it's run-able and not to worry about that for now. For starters, If, it were me, I'd call Flywheel Supply and order a gasket set for it, along with a couple extra tank gaskets. Next, you need to take the carb off with the 4 brass screws and clean the check valve, and make sure it's functioning. If the tank looks bad, down inside, you may want to take the engine off the tank and further clean out the tank and tank top. That's when the extra new gasket will come in handy. Put all back together and try running it. See what happens and report back to us and we'll all help and throw our two cents in.
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Old 10-13-2018, 08:19:03 PM
MayITagAlong MayITagAlong is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

Thanks for the suggestions Pat. I'm scheduled for a surgery this coming week so I won't have a chance to follow your suggestions for a while but I will post results as I get them completed. I will go ahead and get the parts coming though......................Gary
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:42:16 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

You might see if the tank fill plug has a vent hole. Some do, others do not. try running your engine with the fill plug out and see if that helps. if it does, a 11/6 hole drilled in the plug will do it.
Andrew
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:45:42 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

I would say, if the engine turns more than a 1/4" at the rim, you need to have a lok at con rod to crank clearances if there is excess slop, you can use some 100 grit sandpaper to take a little off the con rod caps to take the excess play out. maytag says sand them down and ream out to 5/8". As long as the rods are not egged badly, trial and error will get you close. As long as the rods do not bind when you tighten them, you should be close enough. You only want about .002 clearance. if you have the engine apart, check the wrist pin fit too.
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Old 12-19-2018, 03:50:58 PM
MayITagAlong MayITagAlong is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

OK Guys, After healing from my surgery I tore into my Maytag 92 engine. I took Pat's advice and ordered a complete gasket set while examining the engine. I did not like the "feel" of the clearance of the rod to crank fit so totally apart it came. With my brothers help we completely rebuilt the thing. New bearings/rings/gaskets/etc. What I found relative to the carburetor was the check valve end had somehow come unscrewed with the end and the small disc was glued by sediment to the bottom of the tank directly below the check valve body. Like it dropped straight down and stayed there. I'm sure that's why it would continually start then die. Anyway, I figured while we were making repairs I would go ahead and change out the carburetor air valve and seat too. Aside from settings the points and spark plug were good. We re-gapped those and cleaned up everything. We reassembled the engine and it now runs very well. I put an original flex-pipe and muffler on it too. The only thing left to do is check the RPM of the engine at normal running speed. It sounds OK but I want to know where it is running and will adjust as necessary. Now it's time to move on to the washer itself (it has a seized agitator shaft). I want to thank each of you who responded to my original post as in a sense each item called out by you was into play before the rebuild.

---------- Post added at 02:48:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40:52 PM ----------

OK Guys, After healing from my surgery I tore into my Maytag 92 engine. I took Pat's advice and ordered a complete gasket set while examining the engine. I did not like the "feel" of the clearance of the rod to crank fit so totally apart it came. With my brothers help we completely rebuilt the thing. New bearings/rings/gaskets/etc. We shaved the rod cap and re-fit the rod throw clearance. Little could be done with the wristpin clearance without replacement parts. The clearance did not seem excessive anyway. We honed the cylinder bore and installed new rings after cleaning up all the parts. What I found relative to the carburetor was the check valve end had somehow come unscrewed with the end and the small disc was glued by sediment to the bottom of the tank directly below the check valve body. Like it dropped straight down and stayed there. I'm sure that's why it would continually start then die. Anyway, I figured while we were making repairs I would go ahead and change out the carburetor air valve and seat too. Aside from settings the points and spark plug were good. We re-gapped those and cleaned up everything. We reassembled the engine and it now runs very well. I put an original flex-pipe and muffler on it too. The only thing left to do is check the RPM of the engine at normal running speed. It sounds OK but I want to know where it is running and will adjust as necessary. Now it's time to move on to the washer itself (it has a seized agitator shaft). I want to thank each of you who responded to my original post as in a sense each item called out by you was into play before the rebuild.

---------- Post added at 02:50:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48:56 PM ----------

Sorry for the double post............I added some verbaige and didn't realize it would repost.............Oh well...........Gary
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2018, 06:38:01 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Maytag Model 92 Rotational Freeplay

The '92' type should run at about 1150 RPM with no load. it may come down to about 1000 if loaded to the point where it hits at every TDC compression. DO NOT vary from the 16:1 fuel to oil ratio, and use OIL not synthetics. The bronze rods need oil. Have fun with your washer/engine combo!
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