Problem Maytag Model 92 engine

[Mayatag Bob]

I was trying to get one of my first Model 92 Maytag engines running once and for all. This one has never performed well for me, but always gives the impression that it wants to take off and run.

I bought it ten years ago from a widow whose husband was really into gasoline engines, Model-T's etc. He was known for magnificent work when restoring anything.

The engine was built between July and October 1928. It is a short base deep tank.

I have had it running a few times at a couple of shows. The longest I recall ever having it run was about 10 to 15 minutes, and then it would mysteriously die.

I bought Marvin McCullough's restoration manual, and thoroughly went through the timing. I have .020" point gap, and it's opening well within the 13/32 - 19/32 range as shown in the manual. I've tried several spark plugs ranging from .020 to .035 gap. I am getting spark. I had it running earlier today, but shut it off to adjust the governor. It was popping about 3-4 times, then pausing for several seconds, and then popping a few times again. I tried again this evening and couldn't get it running at all. It popped nearly every time I kicked the pedal, but was determined not to start.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Ed Radtke]

try an inductive timing light on it to see if it is still sparking after it pops then quits.maybe the gov is staying latched out.

[Andrew Mackey]

Check your points gap. Check to see that the governor spring has tension on it. Make sure the governor arm is not binding, and is returning home when the engine stops. If you try to slow the engine too much, it will not release the latch out, thus stopping the engine. Too loose a spring will also affect the timing.Check the engine speed with a hand held manual tach. it should latch off around 1150 to 1200 RPM. You probably can slow to around 1000 RPM, but you probably will run into fouling/timing issues.
Andrew

[Culy]

Had one giving me fits last month also. After everthing but shooting it and putting it out of its misery I finally found the issue. It had been sitting near my fabrication table for quite awhile and the magnets had been accumulating grindings and looked awfull fuzzy. It would start and die a short while later. Figured the grindings would go to a specific spot when not running and then with all the vibrations of running they would short out the ignition. When it stopped running it would fire up and repeat the whole scenario. Some good strong blasts of air and a good wiping down cured it and now runs great.

[Mayatag Bob]

Thanks everyone for your input. I checked the governor and it seems to have a reasonable amount of tension. The points are gapped at .020" I had the cover off the flywheel and the magnet is clean. I checked the spark, and it seems to be strong at times and then other times it seems very weak. It may be the coil, but I've had a number of people tell me that the coils very seldom go bad. There is no problem with pumping the fuel, because the spark plug is wet when I pull it out to check it.

[redr2]

your check ball at the bottom of the car (tube in the tank) may be gummed up. Happens with mine all the time,

[Mayatag Bob]

Originally Posted by redr2

your check ball at the bottom of the car (tube in the tank) may be gummed up. Happens with mine all the time,

That was one of the first things I checked out. It did need a little cleaning out, but the engine reacts the same, but at least I can cross that off the list. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Mayatag Bob]

I just tried it again this evening. I filed the points, they are not perfectly even, but should be making enough contact. The spark seems okay, but all I got out of it was a single pop after I poured a little gas in the cylinder. I must have cranked it over at least 50 times. With that raw gas in it, it should have done something. I used a spark plug with over .030 gap and one properly set at .020, both showing good spark when I tested. Now what to do next.

[coyote62ny]

have you tryed a new plug? if you foul a plug just throw it away they are most likly junk at that point. also have you checked the air valve and spring? if the spring is distorted or an incorrect spring it will act like you discribe.

[Mayatag Bob]

Originally Posted by coyote62ny

have you tryed a new plug? if you foul a plug just throw it away they are most likly junk at that point. also have you checked the air valve and spring? if the spring is distorted or an incorrect spring it will act like you discribe.

Interesting point! I was going to mention this and forgot. I filed quite a bit off the air valve, I would say at least 1/16", I was wondering if this would affect the spring, but then I reassembled it and forgot all about it. Should I get a new air valve? Was that too much to file off of it?

[coyote62ny]

you should not file the air valve it has to be perfictly flat and true could possably be done in a lathe.its most likely not flat and true and what you filed off would take tension off the spring.call maytag mark he has parts and may have what you need. dont strech the spring to compensate for what you filed off or you will trash the spring as well. if the air valve had wear you should replace the valve seat and spring .

[thefixer]

hey All,been reading this thread,hope you get it figured out.
I have to ask though..
who is maytag mark and how can I get in touch with him?
thanks!

[Junkologist]

Here's what I did to get a stubborn Maytag running.

[dave gluyas]

try closing the throtel screw all the way, if it starts or the plug is still wet you either need a new adjustment screw or rebuild carb. when I took mine apart the little brass parts were completely wore out. just a thought.

[Kevin Weis]

Maytag Mark is Mark Shulaw. You can PM off the members list. What they said with the carb air valve and spring above. The coils will go bad on 92's. Especially ones that are/were exposed to much moisture.

Kevin

[Andrew Mackey]

Could be a bad condenser too. First, you have to make sure to drain the flooded crankcase of excess fuel. Once flooded, it takes a while to get rid of the excess gas. Plug gap should be .025" With the wire off the plug, you should get a consistant 1/4" blue spark to a good clean ground. An orangish or redish spark usually indicates a bad condenser. A thin pale blue, coil going south or dirty points. Take a clean white business card and insert in the closed points. Draw out slightly, open points and remove card. it should come out clean. If grey or black deposits, repeat until clean. A plug, wet with fuel will short out under compression. Either replace or heat with a propane torch until all fuel is burned off. The maytag 92 runs best on either a Champion 34 Gas Engine Special or the original Champion Maytag. You can find them on evilbay all the time. The Champion X or early (take apart) A-25 will also work, but the later one piece A-25 or X are not recommended, as once they foul, it is hard to get them clean again.
Andrew