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Maytag Engine Collectibles Maytag engines, washing machines, mowers and other engine driven tools for the farm.

Maytag Engine Collectibles

Maytag Model #31


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  #1  
Old 05-02-2018, 08:48:51 AM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Maytag Model #31

Would start on about the 2-3 try about 4 years ago. Drained all the gas and it sat in storage for 4 years.
Yesterday I cleaned the spark plug (gapped at .025), cleaned and checked the points gap at .020 added 16:1 gas. No fire, nothing. Tried it with a big electric drill and still nothing. Carb is clean, as is the filter on the pick-up tube.
Spark is not the best, but it started easily and ran perfect with that same spark 4 years ago. Gas is being pulled into the bottom of the block, but does not show up on the spark plug or front of the piston. Tried starting fluid into the carb and then into the spark plug hole. Nothing either way.
Compression is about 30#, which I don"t think is enough to pull the gas to the plug. Removed the cylinder and intake and exhaust passages are clean. Ring edges are sharp and rings are loose and compress into the clean groves on the piston.
Ran perfect 4 years ago and now will not evan pop, let alone run.. Need some assistance on what to do next.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2018, 09:44:45 AM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

Well, try a different plug, first. You said you had the jug off. Did you get the intake port of the gasket lined back up with the cylinder?
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Old 05-03-2018, 07:52:13 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

New plug makes no difference. The gasket stayed with the block when I checked the rings, so yes it's as it should be.
New gasket on carb does not help. With my thumb over the carb intake there is virtually no suction, which would explain why there is no gas to the spark plug. How can that be when it started very easy and ran perfect just 4 years ago. No changes whatsoever. Crankshaft is secure with no lateral movement.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I could replace the rings, but I don't see how they could be damaged just from setting.
They were new just 4 years ago and the cylinder bore does not show any damage.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:42:24 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

Tommy, I am only arm chairing your problem. First, I'd check for any dirt (Mud) daubers having built a nest in the carb. Go back over your carb again, especially the check valve. Having set up, you may have some corroded electrical connections. And make sure, the stator plate has a clean connection to the main bearing. You said you cleaned the points. Did you remove the stationary points contact? If so, and it's not pinned to the stator plate, that may be out of adjustment.

---------- Post added at 07:42:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37:08 PM ----------

And make sure you didn't stuff a piece of paper or paper towell in the intake to keep critters out, when you stored it.
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Old 05-03-2018, 09:15:33 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

And make sure, the stator plate has a clean connection to the main bearing. You said you cleaned the points. Did you remove the stationary points contact? If so, and it's not pinned to the stator plate, that may be out of adjustment.

Stator plate has not been removed.
Points were not removed.
I have disassembled the carb several times and checked all passages for obstructions.
I will do it again tomorrow.
If the rings are good and the cylinder bore is good and gas flows thru the carb, what else could prevent it from sucking gas to the plug? Crank bushings are good and tight.
Air cleaner was covering the carb intake.
I ran before it sat for 4 years and now with no changes....It won't.
I really do appreciate you taking time to try and help me.
Tom/Idaho
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2018, 12:15:27 AM
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Motormowers Motormowers is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

30 psi is extremely low for any engine to run. Are the rings stuck to the piston? Usually on a two cycle when youre getting spark and fuel and compression and it wont run its usually a vacuum leak. What do those use for crank seals?
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Old 05-04-2018, 03:00:00 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: #31 Maytag

There are no crank seals. The engine depends on a tight fit between the crank and block bearings (1.5 to 2 thousandths). What kind of oil are you using? most modern 2 stroke lubricants are too thin to maintain a seal between the crank and bearings. SAE 30 non-detergent or TCW-3 OIL only. No synthetics or 1 ratio oils in these low speed engines! Try spraying some SAE 30 oil from a squirt can on the bearings, and into the intake, and see what happens. With the engine setting for so long, the rings may have become gummed and probably are dry as well. Give the cylinder a couple shots of oil too, and rotate the engine with the spark plug out to spread the oil. Re-check compression. Does the engine bounce back against the compression stroke, as it comes to a stop, or does it just mush to a stop? if it does not bounce back several times, ring to cylinder seal is an issue. This is not a perfect test, but it will give an idea on what is going on with compression.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:00:16 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

Drained the two stroke oil/gas mix and will feed it to my 'I'll eat anything Ford tractor".
Mixed SAE#30 ND oil 16:1. Put straight 30# oil in the intake, cylinder and as much as I could on the crank bearing. Brought the compression up to 45#, but still no fire.

Does the engine bounce back against the compression stroke, as it comes to a stop. Yes.
When I took the cylinder off yesterday I could see that the rings are not gummed up.
Spark is not the greatest, but (I'm pretty sure) it ran 4 years ago with this same amount of spark. I did re-check the gap and cleaned the points.
I also went thru the carb again. Clean as can be. Gasket and lead washers are good.
Crank appears to be good and tight in the bearings. Maybe new rings are the answer.
Once again, thank all who are trying to help.
Tom/Idaho
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:36:17 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

Keep us poste on your workings. I had one a friend brought to me and he'd given up on it. I went and took a known working carb, stator plate and flywheel off and swapped everything around time and time again, with no luck. I wound up getting another cylinder and putting on and Poof. It ran.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:17:19 PM
Kevin Weis Kevin Weis is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag

Its not common on 92's, but the coil could have weakened enough to not spark now. Especially of it was exposed to moister for some time. The carb (including the pick up tube/check valve) should be pulled apart entirely, cleaned, and adjusted properly. I'm thinking there is some blockage in an airway or has been said, pick up tube or something. Sounds like you cleaned the intake passages in cylinder. My thoughts, Kevin.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:46:51 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default #31 Maytag Update

Ref: background on this post 5/7/18

Honed cylinder & installed new rings. Watched a video on the air valve, saw my seat was upside down. Removed the air valve seat; polished both parts and reinstalled to proper depth. All passages in carb are clean as can be as is the pick up tube and filter.
Pushed the start lever down a couple times and it fired, smoked good and then kicked back. Tried it again with the same results, and then nothing would happen with the pedal or the drill turning it over.
Crank bearing/seals are very tight.
Not sucking air there.
With honed cylinder , new rings and head gasket properly installed compression has not changed much. Don't understand that.
I will probably order new air valve, spring and seat.
Timing tool
condenser
New lead washers
New plug wire
No real reason to replace a couple parts, but, what the hell! I am at the point where I want it to run no matter what.
I want to check the timing and the lead washers for the carb mount are not the best.
Spark is not the greatest, but, it should fire.
I know there are lots of things that can cause a motor to not run after setting in an enclosed shop for 4 years. I think I have checked them all.
After reading this post and the earlier one if anyone has any idea what I could try I would really appreciate your response.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2018, 09:20:22 PM
briggsoverload briggsoverload is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Compression won't improve until it's been run a little bit to get the rings seated. After it wouldn't fire, was it getting too much or not enough fuel? One thing is I always use a gasket sealer around the carb.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:01:35 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Evan though I have never used gasket sealer on the carb gasket I tried it. Made some new carb bolt gaskets out of gasket paper, pushed the pedal down and it fired once and smoked. Cool, I'm thinking! But, after repeated pushes on the pedal and using a big drill it would not do anything more. Tried adjusting the gas valve in/out, it would smoke some but made no difference. Ever once in a great while it would pop once and that would be all.
So, what's left? Any suggestions anyone?
I'm going to order some more items to replace parts that could be the problem. I hate doing that so I will replace one component, try that and then move to the next one.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:13:31 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Well, I'm wrestling with one, for a friend, sorta doing the same thing. I filled the tank with fuel and when I kick it, fuel sprays out the hole in the fill plug. That tells me the poppet valve in the carb is not sealing off. Years ago, I turned a 7/8" socket down on the outside to remove the brass nut. I gave my son my big tool box, he's going to look for it for me. Either the spring is bad or the brass valve is not sealing off. It will pop once and thats it. Check the seal of yours to insure it's closing off good, OBTY I did check the check valve, It's working properly. Only other thing is compression leaking by piston as it goes forward, killing the fuel drawing ability.
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:19:27 PM
Kevin Weis Kevin Weis is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

That air valve spring is very specific. You will need to order one from a supplier for it to be right. Also smoke but no explosion sends a message to me of being too rich a fuel mixture or to weak a spark or both. If you feel some compression when it reaches TDC then it has enough. Check your point gap and spark plug gap I think is the first order of business then the timing. If the carberator has been monkeyed with then per above install a new air valve spring. Then check check valve pick up tube. It must be able to keep fuel in the tube and not drain back into the tank. Last but not least, check to make sure coil is hot. If it is not, none of the above will matter. These are basics but 95% of the time one or a sum of these is the culprit, not impression or leakage at the bearings or carb flange. To note though, the carb is supposed to be sealed at the gasket with gasket cement/sealant and also the brass screws have a lead washer under each head to seal the screws as well. Kevin
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:32:19 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Up on all that, thanks Kevin, good spark, good compression, new check that's working properly, new gasket, lead washers are good. Fuel into the crankcase is the prob. When I get that socket back and get it apart, I'll replace the spring and seat the poppet valve if necessary. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:46:51 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Check your spark plug for wet fouling. the 'new' E-10 crap gas will short under compression. Use an older spark plug. The new ones without the glazed insulator won't work well. The original champion maytag plug, champion gas engine special #34 are best. The older 2 piece A-25 will work too, the new one piece A-25, not too good. The champion X (old) will work too. if you think timing is off, get a hiold of Mark Shulaw, here on the stak, and have him set up your mag for you. the over the counter 'timing tools' don't work so well.

As for compression, once you have your engine running, you need to load it to set and seal the rings. just 'idling' will not seal them.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:05:39 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: #31 Maytag UPDATE

Found my problem, brand new check valve. Had to do away with the flap disk and put a brass ball in it. It was picking up but the disc didn't settle back on the seat. Ball was heavy enough to lift up and fall back in place.
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:57:06 PM
TommyC TommyC is offline
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Default Mod 31 update #2

After a lot of bucks it starts very easy and I have the idle down to about 700 RPM's. New coil and condenser seem to be the final cure. Thanks to those who offered suggestions.
Tom/Idaho
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