Antique Engines and Old Iron
[Home] - [HELP] - [Forums] - [Library] - [Photo Gallery] - [Groups] - [Classified Ads] - [Subscribe] - [Links] - [Books] - [Sponsors] -

Go Back   SmokStak > SmokStak® Old Iron and Tractor Community > Farm + Industrial Antiques and Collectibles > Maytag Engine Collectibles
Forgot Password? Join Us!

Notices

Maytag Engine Collectibles Maytag engines, washing machines, mowers and other engine driven tools for the farm.

Maytag Engine Collectibles

Maytag Oil Mix


this thread has 43 replies and has been viewed 62126 times

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:48:03 PM
Mark Shulaw Mark Shulaw is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bluffton, Ohio
Posts: 1,210
Thanks: 211
Thanked 589 Times in 349 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

While I am testing prototype coils running them for days. I am studying and testing oils as well. Started with 30 W non detergent. Its been the nastyest oil so far. Seemed to lubricate ok but it has serious yuckys compared to the other two cycles tested since. I am planning to try as many two cycles as I can. Will give a run down on all I test when done. Mark
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Mark Shulaw For This Post:
Sponsored Links
  #22  
Old 08-03-2010, 10:13:25 AM
cheddarhead cheddarhead is offline
Registered-II
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Louisburg, Wisconsin
Posts: 217
Thanks: 291
Thanked 40 Times in 30 Posts
Thumbs up Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I use the 2cycle mix 16:1 too. Because back in the day there was no such thing as 2cycle oil so they used 30 weight. BUT 30 WEIGHT DOES NOT MIX WITH GAS VERY GOOD AS 2 CYCLE OIL. since 30 weight doesnt mix well with gas the bears and cylinder isnt getting oiled as good as 2 cycle would.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 08-08-2010, 03:57:27 PM
Toolbender Toolbender is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bristol, Indiana
Posts: 133
Thanks: 49
Thanked 56 Times in 35 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Thought I had read here it was ok to run Coleman fuel? Am running 1 part generic 30w nondetergent to every 16 part of Coleman. I use a clear container for mixing and the oil appears to suspend well... is this a mistake?
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:06:28 PM
smgussey smgussey is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fort Mohave, AZ, USA
Posts: 662
Thanks: 1,089
Thanked 353 Times in 176 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I am running Coleman fuel in my 92 Maytag and haven't had a problem yet... So far a couple of tankfuls mixed 16:1 with SAE 30 non-detergent oil.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to smgussey For This Post:
  #25  
Old 08-13-2010, 05:28:37 PM
cheddarhead cheddarhead is offline
Registered-II
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Louisburg, Wisconsin
Posts: 217
Thanks: 291
Thanked 40 Times in 30 Posts
Angry Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Quote:
Originally Posted by Connor Hofford View Post
Hi, what is the best amount of oil to add to one gallon of gas on a Maytag? It's been so long since I mixed the gas that I forgot the mix.
The best is regular 2 cycle oil with 16:1. NOT 30 WEIGHT! 30 weight doenst mix well with gas, 2 cylce oil does
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:23:38 PM
wvsky's Avatar
wvsky wvsky is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central West Virginia
Posts: 159
Thanks: 63
Thanked 88 Times in 31 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I've been watching a series of entertaining and enlightening videos on YouTube that I'm sure most of you have already seen.

This comment caught my eye where the guy is putting a piston in the head and states that he only uses 30 w because he wants the rings to seat properly. He says that in the past when he used "expensive" oils, the rings wouldnt seat properly. In other words, 30 w allows much more wear than newer oils. So between Marks findings and this guys, I'd say you have your answer!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZowJE...eature=related
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to wvsky For This Post:
  #27  
Old 01-19-2011, 01:58:11 PM
hih0rse hih0rse is offline
Registered-I
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oneonta, New York
Posts: 6
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Nice discussion. Can you say something about, what are best crankcase lubes to use? I was wondering if an oil cup could be put on the crankcase seal bolt, or whatever it is called. Maybe even pressurize it? Sort of like, pressurize the crankcase with lubricant. It doesnt look hard to do, but since havent seen it done, maybe there is something im missing.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 01-19-2011, 04:26:55 PM
Forrest A's Avatar
Forrest A Forrest A is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,093
Thanks: 77
Thanked 432 Times in 228 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I prefer modern two stroke oils over the straight weight stuff. The modern oils burn instead of slobbering all over and smoke less once the engine is up to temp (even when cold). I have used synthetic oils for many years in my old 92 without any adverse affects. Also, more oil in a two stroke mix means a leaner gas mixture, something to keep in mind.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Forrest A For This Post:
  #29  
Old 01-21-2011, 04:55:51 PM
Mark Shulaw Mark Shulaw is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bluffton, Ohio
Posts: 1,210
Thanks: 211
Thanked 589 Times in 349 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Quote:
Originally Posted by Forrest A View Post
I prefer modern two stroke oils over the straight weight stuff. The modern oils burn instead of slobbering all over and smoke less once the engine is up to temp (even when cold). I have used synthetic oils for many years in my old 92 without any adverse affects. Also, more oil in a two stroke mix means a leaner gas mixture, something to keep in mind.
Hi Forrest, More oil in the gas of older engines like a Maytag is not quite the issue as in a Modern two stroke. But you are so right, modern Engine oil mix ratios should be strictly adheared to for the best overall results. This mostly due to the very small dimensions of carburation orifaces by comparrison to the old engines. The smaller they are the more touchy to changes in fluid viscosity. Mark
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:51:41 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Rockaway, New Jersey USA
Posts: 13,831
Thanks: 1,960
Thanked 6,449 Times in 4,161 Posts
Exclamation Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Straight weight 30 oil will not mix well in gasoline at low temperatures. Neither will 50 wt! When using SAE 30 NON Detergent, you MUST put oil into the fuel, and shake the can well for at least 2 minutes to thoroughly mix the oil and gas. It is advisable to shake the can every time you go to refuel the engine, to make sure the fuel is mixed thoroughly. This goes for the modern stuff too! In colder weather, the mix time is longer, up to 5 minutes! I had a Sears Allstate - Puch motorcyle, that used straight 50 premix fuel. It was a bear to mix the fuel in the winter!
I have seen several saws and other 2 stroke engines burned up, because of fuel/oil settling. Just the other day, my son poured mixed fuel into a Toro power shovel. He looked at the fuel, and said it didn't look right. We found that the modern Toro oil had settled out on the bottom of the fuel can! We had to drain the fuel out of the machine, and flush out the oil in the bottom of the can, and re-mix a batch of fuel for the machine. The original fuel mix was only a week old.
SAE 30 has been used since the early 1920s, if not before. In the older engines, like Maytag, Johnson, Jacobsen and others, it was what was recommended, and is still usable today. I definately would NOT use it in todays engines, as they have a completely different lubrication requirement. As Mark said, the viscosity differences between 30 wt and todays lubes will have a definate effect on the modern engines. The modern lubes also have different additives to allow for different combustion characteristics, such as low ash residue, and high heat lubrication, things not nescessary for low speed engines. Lubrication needs of a high speed engine (16.000 RPM and better), with hardenned roller and needle bearings, chrome moly rings, are much different than an engine with plain bronze bearings, cast iron rings and cylinder, and operating at only around 1,200 RPM!
What is VERY important is the ratio of fuel to oil. Many of the older engines do not have seals on the crank bearings. They depended on the heavier oil/fuel mix to fill the spaces left by nescessary clearances, and lube the bearings. 12:1, 16:1 were common ratios for the old engines. Now days, 40:1, 50:1 and even 100:1 are common ratios used. Use these ratios in an old engine, and you will burn it up in short order! In modern engines, the use of seals and hardenned bearings, allowed for a thinner oil/fuel ratio to do the same job, as loss thru the bearings was minimized with the seals. Yes, Maytags slobber out the exhaust, as do any other engine using a miss cycle as they run, These engines need the miss cycle to allow liquid oil to lubricate the engine. If you load a model 92 engine to the point where it won't miss, using 30 wt oil, you will find it won't slobber, and will smoke very little, once warmed up. It won't foul plugs either! Even the 92 models wont smoke much, if run in a loaded condition. The largest problem is that most engines on display, are not run under load. They simply idle, and are more often than not are set up too rich as well. Engines are made to work. When idled for long periods, they will carbon up, will slobber oil, and will foul plugs, because they are not being worked as they would be when used in equipment for which they were designed. it's the trade off you get for not working the engine.
Andrew
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:48:46 PM
cheddarhead cheddarhead is offline
Registered-II
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Louisburg, Wisconsin
Posts: 217
Thanks: 291
Thanked 40 Times in 30 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

[QUOTE=Andrew Mackey;608009]Straight weight 30 oil will not mix well in gasoline at low temperatures. Neither will 50 wt! When using SAE 30 NON Detergent, you MUST put oil into the fuel, and shake the can well for at least 2 minutes to thoroughly mix the oil and gas. It is advisable to shake the can every time you go to refuel the engine, to make sure the fuel is mixed thoroughly.
easy to use two cycle oil which mixes better
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 02-19-2011, 02:24:45 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Rockaway, New Jersey USA
Posts: 13,831
Thanks: 1,960
Thanked 6,449 Times in 4,161 Posts
Exclamation Re: Maytag Oil Mix

If you read the entire post, you will see that in cold weather, even the modern oils will settle! Be sure to give your 2 cycle fuel can a good shake up when filling your tank, no matter what type of lube/oil you use, and EVERY time you use it! Cheap insurance!
Andrew
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 02-19-2011, 08:24:08 AM
wvsky's Avatar
wvsky wvsky is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central West Virginia
Posts: 159
Thanks: 63
Thanked 88 Times in 31 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

What about the fuel already in the engine for a period of time? For instance, I just placed an engine on a Washer. How do you shake that if it's in there for weeks? Two people?
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 02-19-2011, 09:40:02 AM
HBurk HBurk is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bridgewater, Virginia USA
Posts: 5,907
Thanks: 1,222
Thanked 3,398 Times in 1,543 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Two biiiig people.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 02-20-2011, 11:29:14 AM
Mark Shulaw Mark Shulaw is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bluffton, Ohio
Posts: 1,210
Thanks: 211
Thanked 589 Times in 349 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

If we drain the fuel like we are supposed to before putting them away thats not an issue. But few of us do that. Drain the fuel when you get it out thats what the drain plug is for. Then remix in the can you drain it into. Or else just dump the old fuel in your truck and refill the engine with fresh mix. Or if we don't drain them the best then is to put them away with less then half a tank. Then fill with well mixed fuel before starting. While 30 w and others settle relatively quickly and are more difficult to mix, proper two cycle oils will not settle anywhere near as quickly if at all for all practical purposes and remixes very easily. So this remixing problem is not really an issue with them. If you are going to a show just the jouncing in the truck or trailer will be more then enough to adgitate it to remix. Mark

Last edited by Mark Shulaw; 02-20-2011 at 11:44:41 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:41:13 PM
jbjr jbjr is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: lordstown,ohio (trumbull country)
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: maytag oil mix

i just got a model 92 engine.regular gas in the tank. engine turned over but did not fire.luckily it has almost no spark.will this hurt my engine.i dumped out all gas.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 09-09-2011, 02:50:48 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Rockaway, New Jersey USA
Posts: 13,831
Thanks: 1,960
Thanked 6,449 Times in 4,161 Posts
Exclamation Re: Maytag Oil Mix

If it was run on straight gas, some damage may have been done. First thing I would do is to put the engine at mid-stroke, and see if there is play in the connecting rod. If you hear a clunking noise, or if you can turn the flywheel more than 3/16th of an inch before the bearing play is taken up, then I would remove the con rod and inspect for damage (galling, egging out of round, worn and loose on crank). If the bearing isn't too bad, you might be able to salvage it by taking the bearing cap and the rod and sanding a little bit off them and re-fitting the crank and bearing. There should be only a couple thousandths clearance. If the rod is badly egged, then only replacement will restore the engine to good health. If play is minimal, I would take a squirt oil can and put 4 or 5 good pumps of SAE 30 oil and spray into the intake. Remove the spark plug and kick the engine over vigorously 5 or 6 times. Fill the engine with high test fuel, mixed with SAE 30 NON Detergent oil at 16:1 ratio (1 cup oil/gallon gas). You want to give the interior of the engine a good coating of oil to load the bearings and rings. Once you have run the engine for about 1/2 a tank of fuel, load the engine until it hits every time, adjust the fuel needle as nescessary, for best running. After the engine gets good and hot, it may send sparks out the exhaust, as carbon is burned off within the cylinder. After about 5 minutes, let run at idle (hit & miss Mode), for about 5 minutes, and you should be good.

I prefer SAE 30, as it has a little more body that seems to help the engine seal at the main bearings. Yes it slobbers, but the Maytags always slobbered! You might want to try the oils that Mark has suggested, but in any case I would not use a lubricant made for injecter engine use, nor one that has been cut with mineral spirits. Note I said LUBRICANT. You want to use an oil, not a synthetic, as used in modern engines. They are too thin for use in the Maytag engines. Do NOT deviate from the 16:1 oil mix recommended by Maytag.

Hope no damage was done to your engine. I have seen Maytags that were run on straight gas, that actually seized as they were running. After they cooled off, the gas was removed, fresh oil/gas mix was put in the tanks, and the engines actually started and ran! Give it a try!
Andrew
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 07-05-2012, 09:31:26 PM
Kevin Weis Kevin Weis is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Union Bridge, Maryland
Posts: 1,102
Thanks: 580
Thanked 244 Times in 198 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Sorry about raising this thread from the dead but Mark what did you find with your testing? I'm one of the ones that used a 32/1 modern two cycle mix. Usually it's the Husqvarna oil. I've never had a problem with them running on this mixture. I tried mixing strait 30 weight (non-detergent) at 16/1 and got a hell of a mess all over the engine. That stuff sticks allright. I had to use a solvent to get it off the outside of the engine. It also fouled up the Maytag plug in about 15 minutes to the point it stopped runing. I've heard that if there is blue smoke comming out the pipe the mix has enough oil in it. Just courious as to how refined Maytag's own oil was that was supposed to be used or you voided their warrantee. I'm sure it wasn't a standard motor oil but probably had some sort of special refinement to better mix with the gas. Mark the Maytag guy, I would go by what he says.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:58:53 AM
Axtion Jim S Axtion Jim S is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 372
Thanks: 410
Thanked 176 Times in 123 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

We could always use the strawberry scented 2cycle oil that is available for outboard engines. The vistor to our show don`t mind it, but the old 30w non detergent allway has mixed reveiws and some not so kind comments. All my Maytags tend to fog the total area around my display, but the odur of strawberry send the off looking for the pie and icecream at the cook shack.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 11-01-2012, 01:50:30 AM
N6223U N6223U is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Silver City, New Mexico
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I have a bucket of original Maytag Multi-Motor oil. It is about a 3 1/2 gallon metal bucket STILL SEALED and has the Maytag printing on the bucket. The other side has a paper label explaining the use of oil/fuel mix in the Maytag Multi-Motor. The paper label is not in very good shape and has some pieces missing but is still for the most part readable. The white printing on the black metal bucket is in fair shape, has the old stylised Maytag name and explanation that this is a special blend for Maytag engins. If interested I can take some photos.

Anyone interested? What is it worth?

I have had this sitting around here for over 50 years. I don't know how I would go about shipping it. Will UPS take it?

You can contact me at david.fischer@q.com
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

F o r u m Jump

Similar Threads Chosen at Random
Thread Thread Starter F o r u m Replies Last Post
Early Maytag Wooden Tub Maytag Washer Shelby Babcock Antique Washing Machines 16 12-30-2014 11:13:53 PM
Odd barn find Maytag runs again...Maytag prototype or farmer fix? Mac Leod Antique Gas Engine Discussion 16 11-19-2008 12:45:49 AM
Will Maytag 72 power my Maytag washing machine. triplepass Maytag Engine Collectibles 9 11-14-2007 12:52:04 AM
maytag BobRR Antique Engine Archives 3 09-25-2002 01:36:53 AM
MAYTAG Lynn Taylor Antique Engine Archives 5 01-21-2002 09:49:48 PM


Use "Ctrl" mouse wheel to change screen size.
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:31:36 PM.

Smokstak and Enginads site search!


All use is subject to our TERMS OF SERVICE
SMOKSTAK® is a Registered Trade Mark - A Community of Antique Engine Enthusiasts
Copyright © 2000 - 2019 by Harry Matthews P.O. Box 5612 - Sarasota, FL 34277