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Trucks, Trailers and Hauling for Shows

Hydraulic Pump Repair Problem


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  #1  
Old 04-07-2018, 10:43:25 AM
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Default Hydraulic Pump Repair Problem

Finally getting onto my semi trailer ramp problem. Last year I let the ramps down and couldn't get them to raise. There is a Monarch 12VDC hydraulic power pack in the tail and it's always worked very well but failed me this one time. After cleaning all electrical connections and gaining nothing, I took the control pendant apart and found the two Cole-Hersee momentary switches to be submerged in water. Thinking this could be a problem, I ordered two new switches, and a 50' coil of 16AWG SJO cord to renew all as it's over 20 years since this was installed. After removing the pump unit from the trailer to work with it on the bench, I drained the tank, removed the motor, pump and valve body to gain access to the solenoid valves which are in the tank. After rewiring up new switches and the solenoids with new wire, and new sealing rings to put everything back together, I installed two hydraulic pressure gauges into the ports, pushed the operator button and the port which normally folds the ramps down comes right up to 2000psi and holds. Pushing the other operator button which normally raises the ramps, a small audible "click" is heard and the electric motor runs, but nothing else. No hydraulic pressure in the second port, nor decay of hydraulic pressure in the first. Wondering what I did wrong or missed, the unit had to come back apart. No problem there so drained it down again, removed the end that contains the solenoid valves, and found a solenoid which is a 4 way to both raise and lower the ramps to have a wire broken off flush with it's entry into the coil. This is the first photo.

After getting on line to find a coil and using the numbers imprinted into the coil case, I ran across a vendor in Pennsylvania and the price for the part wasn't bad but the shipping of $25.11 for something that weighs less than a pound was exorbitant. I found the shipping price out later and cannot recommend this vendor AT ALL.

Installing this coil and attempting to operate the pump again, the same problem is exhibited with no build up of hydraulic pressure in the second port and no pressure decay in the first. Taking the pump apart once again, removing the solenoids to evaluate, I find the four way solenoid to be devoid of it's filter screen on the first section. This is the second photo. There was a remnant of the filter screen still on the valve but the rest of this screen had to be someplace. Using a pick after solvent washing the hydraulic oil out with a squirt bottle, I did find most of it lodged into a port. I was able to fish this out but it was pretty ragged so obviously seen some abuse.

What this all shakes out to is the filter screen had broken into small pieces and has plugged the four way valve seen in the first photo. Looking at third photo you can see the inner round member which is supposed to slide uncovering ports when the coil is magnetized and it is frozen solid. I've ordered a new valve assembly from another vendor whom had the part on the shelf. A bit expensive at just over a hundred for the part and $12.00 for shipping but this pump has yielded great service so worth repairing.

The forth attachment is a breakdown of the valve assembly ordered. Number 54 on the diagram. This vendor I very highly recommend; Mason Dynamics in Grand Rapids, MI. Really nice people to work with and want to ensure you get correct parts.
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2018, 11:03:06 AM
Vanman Vanman is offline
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Default Re: Pump problem:

My concern would be some of that disintegrated screen may well be in the lines or the ram, waiting to come back and foul the valve or worse, the pump.

Is there some way to ensure everything is flushed out?

Mine be able to fix the old valve for a spare?
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Old 04-07-2018, 11:20:16 AM
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Default Re: Pump problem:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanman View Post
My concern would be some of that disintegrated screen may well be in the lines or the ram, waiting to come back and foul the valve or worse, the pump.

Is there some way to ensure everything is flushed out?

Mine be able to fix the old valve for a spare?
I'm taking everything off the trailer for rebuild and new hoses now that it's down. Both cylinders seep and the hoses are about 30 years old as are the cylinders. I want everything clean so will run it through the washer. I'd like to install and external filter but nothing outside the pumping unit is low pressure. It only has stainers internal to the reservoir on the pump pickup, and then both solenoid valves have the screen like shown. One solenoid valve, (previously shown) does the shifting from one direction to the other, the other solenoid valve is a "check" valve only. It keeps the ramps from bleeding down in this installation although I chain them up.
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Old 04-07-2018, 11:35:58 AM
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Default Re: Pump problem:

My old drop deck. It's only 42' so a little short at times but is quite maneuverable behind my R model. Serves real well for dead antique Mack trucks, and farm tractors.

Been slowly accumulating items needed to use this one as a pattern and build a new trailer. Now retired I have time available. This one is only 96" wide and I'd like to go 102", and probably 45' long. I have a complete new 9700 "Hutch" suspension which is all NOS stock parts from closeouts, new 17.5" rims, and about 1/2 the steel for the frame. I also may make the dovetail 60" instead of the current 48" length. This will lessen the approach angle even more.
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Old 04-07-2018, 01:26:25 PM
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Default Re: Pump Problem

Was able to free the valve up. Attempting to knock the roll pin out which held the top and bottom sections together opened up a gap a small screwdriver, (pry) could be inserted into. Forcing the valve open readily exposes "grit" from the disintegrated screen which readily washed clear in hot tap water from the sink. The valve now slides effortlessly and the spring closure operation is very normal. Tried to capture this with the camera set on "macro" but it doesn't want to focus that close. In the photos one could see some of the "grit" against the ground surface of the valve spool. Doesn't appear to show in the photos. A wipe across this surface left silver flakes on the finger which were easy to see.

However, given the valve has no protective filter strainer on it any longer, I'm still going to expend it and replace just cause I don't want to do this job again.....

Thanks,
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Old 04-07-2018, 04:00:21 PM
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Default Re: Pump Problem

Breaking that valve loose and running the pump unit body stripped of parts through the washer, then reassembly took care of the problem. 2000 psi on both ports when commanded to do so with the C2 port checked to retain the ramps in the elevated position. All good but I'll still install the new valve citing it has the filter screen where my original does no longer. As suggested this one will stick around as a "spare".

Thanks,
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Old 04-07-2018, 11:54:44 PM
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Default Re: Pump Problem

Proof positive my hydraulic repair capability is "Mickey Mouse" at best:
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:00:07 AM
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Default Re: Hydraulic Pump Repair Problem

New valve arrived today and will be installed tomorrow. Discovered high resistance across contacts of Cole-Hersee magnetic switch, (solenoid) that carryies the operating current for the hydraulic pump motor so ordered a replacement scheduled for arrival tomorrow. Pump runs 100% but where it is and the amount of labor needed to extract it, strong inclination or preference is for doing it only once. Looked at the hydraulic cylinders and elected to replace rather than repair. The chrome is scratched very deep in one cylinder rod and both are leaking. Both are in excess of 35 years old so best to replace. I ordered from Bailey Hydraulics as they have good pricing through the end of the month.

Another day in paradise as they say.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:09:26 AM
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Default Re: Hydraulic Pump Repair Problem

Guess I'd forgot to show you the video of the ramps working again. I did receive the replacement hydraulic cylinders yesterday and after I figure out what I'm going to do with the trailer as a whole, (modify, rebuild, or replace) I'll get them installed.

The more I think of it and the amount it's used, I may just roll it over onto it's back, (upside down) and air arc the suspension out as I have all new, roll it back over and replace the tail adding three feet in length. I'd cut the neck off and replaced five years ago complete.

Here is a three minute video and hope you like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6WjFFsA-pM
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