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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Case 18-32 K Project


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  #61  
Old 04-04-2019, 11:32:38 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

For reference from the manual, the figures are getting kinda hard to read so ill put them here.
1. Inlet opens 7 degrees after upper center. Piston should be 1.779" or 1 25/32" from the top of the deck.
2. Inlet closes 30 degrees after lower center. Piston should be 7.435" or 7 7/16" from the top of the deck.
3. Exhaust opens 45 degrees before lower center. Piston should be 7.046" or 7 3/64" from top of deck.
4. Exhaust closes 12 degrees after upper center. Piston should be 1.831" or 1 53/64 from top of deck.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:57:03 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I have to say im undecided on timing. Im sure its close but I haven't committed yet. Im using a crank gear from another engine which was marked one tooth off from my original, and a cam gear that didn't come with that other engine. Altogether I have three sets of gears with three different marks and the only thing I can figure is that its hand grenade/horseshoe close. I see where the gear teeth actually were cut at random to the casting, looks like the cam gear I am using and my original cam gear are 1/2 tooth off from each other and the gear I am using was marked in two places.
I made up some degree wheels to stick to the crank end, I may just have to install one piston to finish out this timing debate.

For todays comic relief I have pictures of pressing the cam gear on with the camshaft in the block. I was going to make some cool pieces to accomplish this, but just didn't have time as the wife wanted the garage cleaned out this weekend. So the task involved two 3/8" carriage bolts with washers and nuts, a puller bar, one 1 1/8" flat washer, one 5/8" hex nut to back up the end of the camshaft, a c-clamp and a square bar grebb puller wrench that had a hole in it I could use.
Before I used the puller wrench I had a steel strap on there from an Allis Wc, but it was bowing too much.
Anyway...…….it pressed on, reason for this is I put the cam in before I installed the block and I didn't want to lower the block with the cam gear on, didn't want to install the cam in the block and install each lifter while on the tractor, etc.
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  #63  
Old 04-11-2019, 08:47:54 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

The flywheel is tucked away in its home and the intermediate drive gear is installed. I drilled the end of the shaft and tapped it to 1/2" coarse threads so I could thread in a stud to draw the gear on the shaft without sledge hammering it on, ends up the gear had to be heated and tapped on as I drew it in anyway.
The set on this gear determines the end play so you need to get it right the first time as this gear lives under a cover with a gazillion 1/4# square headed bolts holding it on.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:34:50 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I have the clutch all back on and assembled. I'm missing something on the operation of it, adjusted it the first time and locked in and out with a snap just like all our other twin disc clutches. Installed lining on the clutch brake and tried to adjust it, worked the first time and then if one finger ended up at the top it would catch at the edge of the cone and stick, wouldn't lock in. I could adjust the brake so it wouldn't back off the end of the cone, but sometimes it would still drop at the cone edge unless the brake was really close.
My manual covers an earlier clutch so I need some late procedures, do you suppose the fingers are just worn too much? Looks to me like if they had a return spring on each one my problems would be over.
Maybe when the crankshaft is turning the fingers will stay out?
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  #65  
Old 05-19-2019, 09:32:33 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Interesting about that clutch finger giving it back to you. Looking forward to your solution.
I looked at 2 of the other brand tractors with Twin Disc clutches here and found the ends of the fingers stay off the shaft perhaps 3/16".
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  #66  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:08:49 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Looks like the fingers are not missing any springs or such, I suppose when the engine is turning the fingers throw out enough to not catch at the end of the cone, we shall see further.
Got the wrist pin bushings pressed in and pistons installed, it is interesting to me to find how manufactures' designed things differently. Case had the wrist pins keyed to the pistons to prevent turning and then a through bolt/pin on the other end to prevent side to side movement like International. The bolt had a tab washer to prevent turning after installation, I couldn't find one of the tabs so I utilized an International feature and drilled the end for a cotter pin, put a lock washer under the head. After that, I drilled all four for insurance.
The wrist pin bushings were drilled and pinned at one end to the rod to prevent turning, something that shows up throughout these Case tractors, either pinned or set screwed. With these designs it is good to press the old bushing out away from the pinned end and also when wrist pins are removed from the piston and rod you need to press out opposed to the key, otherwise you will end up damaging the piston , plus the key wont go through anyway.
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  #67  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:12:15 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Something I noticed awhile back is that the left end of the crankshaft was stamped "76". I noticed yesterday that all four of the rods had a "76" stamped in them also. The serial number ends with a "78", I don't know if that has anything to do with anything.
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  #68  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:24:03 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Took the water pump apart, the bushings aren't horrible but loose. The shaft is really worn where the outboard packing and nut live, I may have to think about this one for a couple of days. Didn't look at all like it had been leaking, actually the packing made it pretty snug and took up any bushing play I think. A friend advised me these Case water pumps aren't a huge leaker, I think I have to believe him on this one but I may just tighten up the bushing situation and think it over.
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  #69  
Old 05-20-2019, 08:26:17 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I see some lathe and keyway work in your future.......
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:45:40 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

While it's true the packings assist carrying the pump shaft they can't be the only things carrying the pump shaft.
How it doesn't leak with that much wear is beyond me...….
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:20:05 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

my 12-20 had brass sleeves in each housing. as well as the packing. i repacked. leaks just a little, but not too bad.
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Old 05-21-2019, 11:10:36 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Im thinking about several things, do you think the coupler end could be threaded to the shaft and peened? Also, I could build it back up, turn and polish, but it may pull unless I can heat and weld very evenly.
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Old 06-03-2019, 10:16:29 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

New water pump shaft is done, came out pretty good. I thought about just keying the coupler end to the shaft but instead we threaded it on and then welded it solid. What the heck, you know? I might mention im pretty proud of the weld.
Fitted the pump to the governor end to check the set on the impeller, it is free floating inside the pump casting and keyed, but centering so that the couplers all fit together is important, I thought, so the impeller doesn't rub against the housing badly.
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:25:03 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Pat Kelly was posting pictures of his 12-20 Case restoration on facebook as I followed and I saw where he assembled the radiator on the tractor in pieces/ stages. Having built a few of these for McCormick- Deering tractors including W-40s I wondered why he was doing it that way until I started on this one. Looking at it you can assemble the whole thing by yourself in pieces without pre-assembling and hoisting it up onto the tractor. Since I removed it with the tractor loader I had an idea how heavy it was taking it apart but since the tractor is in the shop hoisting it would be a problem right now.
The upper tank was the biggest pieces to manhandle on, but I got it without damage to self or subject. Now comes some bolting together this week.
I know, there is more to do on the engine before the radiator needed installed, I just got REALLY tired of looking at it without a radiator, you know?
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:40:46 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

That's HOT! : - ) My brain said that.
I hear you about missing the rad for too long!
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:29:44 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duey C View Post
That's HOT! : - ) My brain said that.
I hear you about missing the rad for too long!
Yeah I had stared at that frontless tractor for way too long and piddled with bearings, shafts, bushings and calipers enough so I thought I would jump into form mode. Other tractors in the past similarly got steel wheels in leu of flat rubber tires just to get some interest going.
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:50:33 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

What have you done for replacement fan drive bearings? The through shaft hyatt bearings. I will be looking, may have to turn some bronze .
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:22:44 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I looked into machining some bronze bushings for the fan drive, decided to look around for some bearings just for the heck of it. Got another drive from Joe B, but before I took that apart I found a bearing, number R142RS, 7/8" ID x 1 7/8" OD x 1/2" wide. We machined out the casting 1/2" deep on both sides, then all we need to do it make spacers to take up the rest of the width from the inside of the bearing to the drive gear. You can also find a bearing more commonly at the same dimensions but 2" OD, I decided the 1/8" less OD would remove less material, otherwise I think the wider bore isn't even an issue in this case.
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:43:05 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

What about valve guides, supposedly the LA or L guides are the same but they are a different part number. 3176A for the 18-32 and 4512A on the L/LA?
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:11:13 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Got some guides coming, thanks to Don L. Someone had already ground seats, replaced two and touched up the valves, after hot tanking the head the guides were actually all worn, not just the exhausts.
Other pic is top dead center on these and several pics of the sleeves, originals have a bevel at the top that sure makes piston/ring installation nice. I found one sleeve that was square cut at that position, all the sleeves in the engine now are pretty good thanks to Joe B. Pistons are in, a little wait on the guides and we will be ready to finish up.
Magneto needs checked out, oil pump cleaned and checked, fan finished, gas tank plumbing and sealed...………….by august first?
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