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Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Lauson, Maytag, Nelson, Wisconsin and other small air cooled engines. Sub forums for mowers, scooters and powered eqipment.

Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines

Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions


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  #1  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:02:57 AM
inlinesix inlinesix is offline
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Default Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

Hey all, I need your advice on the condition of an engine, and where to go from here.

I have been working on small engines as a hobby/side business for around 10 years now. Most of the work I've done has been with carburetors and ignition components with the occasional re-ring. I've only honed out a handful of engines to break the glaze and put STD size rings in.

I recently picked up a Little Wonder leaf blower with a 1980 Briggs and Stratton 5hp engine model 130202. I have been restoring the blower as a summer project and planned on freshening up the engine. This engine runs great and starts on the first or second pull every time. There isn't any noticeable smoke, but I have smelled burning oil on occasion. There isn't any noticeable oil consumption either.

When I pulled it apart, this is what I found:





The piston:






There appears to be a bit of scoring on the piston and cylinder wall. If I run my finger down the cylinder wall, I can't really feel the scoring, so I'm not quite sure how significant the damage is. I did notice a bit of wiggle in the piston when it was at TDC. I've never dealt with this before, even my 1978 Briggs 8hp on my Toro 826 snow blower still has the cross hatch on the cylinder walls. The only "machining" tool I have is a 3 stone hone for a drill.

How should I approach this? Would I be okay just honing the cylinder and putting in a new STD piston and rings? I have a new piston and ring set for a 5hp Briggs sitting around from another project. Should I bore it .10 over? Is that something I can do myself? Machine shops are kind of scarce around here. Would it be better just to find another block?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:53:22 AM
Thaumaturge Thaumaturge is offline
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Default Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

If you can't feel the scoring, I'd go with just a deglazing. This can be done with a brake cylinder hone. If you have a drill press, so much the better. But trick is to keep hones moving up and down cylinder as long as they are turning. Deglazing doesn't preclude a later oversize boring. What it will do is to tell you for certain if scoring is deeper than a deglazing will cure. A REAL controlled cut boring hone runs about a hundred dollars. Where a brake cylinder hone puts light spring pressure on stones, the boring hone puts controled constant pressure. It can still be done with just a drill press. I wouldn't attempt it with a hand drill. Too hard to avoid tilting boring hone and gouging with edges of stones.
Again, a quick deglazing will tell you the story and won't take enough metal to affect an oversizing if needed. I would clean up the piston with very fine emery. If you have a lathe available I'd even go with steel wool for a quick polish. That's my opinion.
Those old briggs are tough old beasts. I've seen one recover from a seizure with just a smack of a wood block to unseize the piston and come back to full power with no further repair. Just put the head back on and started it. (Wasn't me. I would have deglazed it and changed the rings as well as checked all the other bearings.)
Doc
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:44:42 AM
inlinesix inlinesix is offline
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Default Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

Thanks for the info, I'll try to de-glaze the cylinder and see what it looks like after.
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:01:47 AM
beezerbill beezerbill is offline
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Default Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

Hold on a second! If this is an aluminum cylinder wall you might want to wait a bit before you hone / deglaze it, and see what other comments come in. The aluminum cylinder wall engines are apparently pretty tricky when it comes to honing. Most folks that are familiar with them state to never hone them at all.

If your engine was running OK and not smoking or burning oil, I would just put it back together. The bore may look worse than it is, and may have simply suffered from dirty oil, running without an air cleaner, or both. Best thing to do for this engine is to run what Briggs recommends for oil, keep it topped off and change it frequently.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:46:01 PM
JonH JonH is offline
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Default Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

That looks like an aluminum bore. If it is, do not hone it. If you can find chrome rings, you can install them otherwise, re-install the ones that came out provided they are not broken. If you can't catch a fingernail in those grooves, they are nothing to worry about. From what I have read, re-sizing an aluminum bore is a real nightmare. After boring and honing, the aluminum has to be acid-etched to expose sharp Silicon crystals in order for the new rings to wear in. The as-honed bore is just too smooth to ever seat new rings. Maybe someone with more knowledge of aluminum bores will step in with more information.

Good luck,
Jon
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:13:59 PM
inlinesix inlinesix is offline
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Default Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp - first rebuild questions

Thanks guys for the info. This is an aluminum bore engine. I had read a few conflicting things on honing aluminum bores which is another reason I came here. I'm glad I did. The engine ran pretty well before taking it apart, so considering how it will probably only get used one season a year it should be fine. I'm pretty OCD about my oil/oil changes and check the level every time I run any of my engines.
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