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Hit & Miss Gas Engine Discussion

Smith motor wheel?


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  #1  
Old 12-30-2013, 07:50:37 PM
jopeter jopeter is offline
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Default Smith motor wheel?

Is there anyone out there who has rebuilt a Smith Motor Wheel .........not the flywheel magneto type ,the early one with the Berling magneto ......I v'e a few questions to ask ?
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:30:03 PM
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rusty iron rusty iron is offline
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Default Re: Smith motor wheel ??

Those can be a pain to work on. Just removing/installing the rod cap screws can be a pain. They never used a flywheel mag but at least you got the Berling which is probably the best of the 4 different mag manufacturers they used. I may be able to help, if not somebody here probably can.
Doug
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:58:15 AM
jopeter jopeter is offline
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Default Re: Smith motor wheel?

Thanks Doug...........the Berling magneto has been sent away for a rebuild, it's been a long time, I had better make a phone call!
The cylinder was 15 thou out of round so It has been rebored and I have made a new piston and rings. I also made a complete new inlet valve and cage. I have been able to obtain a set of drawings which does explain a few things. From some information I have it seems my engine is a 1917 Model BA.
What I would like to know is the timing marks on the gears. There is one mark on the small pinion on the crankshaft. On the large gear which is the camshaft and traction shaft there are two marks at 180 degrees to each other. I have assembled the engine, using one of these marks. AS the exhaust valve is controlled by the cam I have checked it and the exhaust valve is starting to open at BDC, so all appears OK. Running the engine with a vee belt on the flywheel and an electric motor does produce some spit back from the inlet port ......could be that the inlet valve spring is not strong enough......compression is getting better, hopefully things will be ok when new rings are beded in.
My main concern is the timing marks?
Thanks for your reply.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:43:42 PM
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rusty iron rusty iron is offline
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Default Re: Smith motor wheel?

Yeah don't lose track of that Berling. Replacement would be difficult as you probably know. I don't have a loose cam-gear here to look at but theoretically there could be 4 different timing marks 90 degrees apart and any one of them would provide proper valve timing. The important part is when the exhaust valve closes. Your intake valve issue could be several things. As you mention it could be the spring, or maybe it's not seated properly. But seems to me that the pressure within the combustion chamber would be far less while turning the engine over with a motor than it would be when running under its own power. Perhaps that has something to do with the valve issue??
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:17:35 PM
Doug Tallman Doug Tallman is offline
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Default Re: Smith motor wheel?

I agree with the other Doug when he says set it by the ex valve closing. It should happen just after TDC. I look at both opening and closing and have moved the gear a tooth or 2 to see what looks the best but the ultimate decision has to be when it closes. Set the mag to where the points just open and then put the engine where you want it to fire and put it in. I gave up on timing marks years ago. Got tired of getting burnt by stray marks, double marks, ect and just find it easier to time it where it should run than mess with the marks.

I can think of 3 things for the leaky intake. Weak spring, valve not seating, or the valve cage assy not sealing in the block. I hate that clamp set up. TINK is just a little too tight!
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:48:21 AM
jopeter jopeter is offline
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Default Re: Smith motor wheel?

Thanks both Doug's ....yes i am chasing up the Berling . My camshaft gear has two timing marks ,180 degrees apart ....I understand that there could be four .....thats ok ,I will check the exhust valve opening again ............at the moment i an just running the motor with the electric motor ,bedding those rings in , it is pumping oil !I dont know how effective the oil control groove is . I will wait until the rings bed in and if there is still too much oil I might look at putting in an oil control ring ,might even make another piston .
Thanks again for your thoughts ,I am sure I will have some more questions . I did not have original horns but have had some alloy ones cast .
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