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FH Briggs & Stratton.


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  #1  
Old 03-30-2012, 10:19:54 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default FH Briggs & Stratton.

I need a little help guys.I'm working on my FH Briggs and hoping someone can provide me with the length of the fiber wear piece on the point arm..the point actuator that rides against the crankshaft.This one is worn quite a bit and I'm concerned about it.The length from the arm itself to the end of the actuator is what I need....I'm not needing the length pressed into the point arm.
Also this engine had a LOT of crankshaft end play.I took off the magneto backing plate and it had a 1/32 inch thick gasket.Is this correct? Any reason I can't use a paper thin gasket as long as I have end play?
Thanks for the help...Lester.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:01:54 AM
Road Torpedo Road Torpedo is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

1/32 isnt terrible, but your suppose to have .002 to .008 end play.

the only problem i have found by using just regular paper, is that they tend to become oil soaked and start to seap oil over time.

Though lot of original gaskets from Briggs, were nothing more than paper. Must have been a tougher kind of paper.

Results may vary.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:39:42 AM
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

New ones can be bought on eBay. This listing has ended, but if you contact the seller, I'm sure he will relist it for you.

http://ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Briggs-FH-FI-L-M-P-Q-R-S-T-W-Engine-Breaker-Tip-/390394932603
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:11:12 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

You can also get gasket paper from a NAPA auto parts store. If the EBay seller is a dealer, that is your bet bet though.
Andrew
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:10:13 PM
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Jonathan Widelo Jonathan Widelo is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Lester,

I have used those breaker tips they are made by a friend (Dennis) and are high quality. The important thing about these tips if they become too wore they can change the timing a bit. To check this Briggs came out with a MPJ-T4 Timing tool, that could be attached to the crank to see if the points were opening advanced or retarded. I have only seen one of these original tools in person once, they are very rare. I had good luck fabricating one using a 7/8" set collar and a piece of threaded rod. The Briggs Antique engine repair manual shows a picture of this tool and how to use it, and Dennis makes some I think. As for too much end play I had to add a thin thrust washer in between the mag plate bearing and the crank of one of my FH's once, just as long at the correct clearance is achieved you should be fine !

~ Jonathan
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:42:02 AM
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Rich Mueller Sr Rich Mueller Sr is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Just a comment here but on my 1928 that I have really not gone into yet just looking over the mag,I did notice the arm pivot had alot of slop in it ,so if your pad is wore you might want to check this pivot out real good too.....
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:15:04 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Thank you all for your comments and help here.I read your thread Rich about your totally wore out FH and laughed so hard...it's so true! I have several of these old FH's and each one had taken a pretty severe beating in its life.It is amazing to me they ran as long as they did..and some of the ingenious fixes made to keep them in service.
So this one..I found it for a reasonable price.Finally! An FH I won't have to sink a pile of money into.Wrong! Oh she looked good from the outside..compression and complete.Hmm.No spark.Take off flywheel and it has hair lines running through it.Look a little closer and the magneto back plate is cracked around the mounting holes.No lock washers anywhere and the Hi Tension lead isn't even hooked up.In fact the end wasn't even stripped to expose the wire.
So yes indeed..the pin where the point pivots is completely worn out and probably the point bushing too.So a really nice fellow here (thanks Rodney) is kindly sending me a flywheel and back plate and then I can go back together with it and find out if the coil is bad..Lol!
Oh well! The good news is...first FH I've ever had where I didn't twist off the head bolt under the exhaust outlet.Why? Because it actually has pretty good compression and I didn't dare try to remove the head!
The carburetor was exactly like every other one I've seen...no filter screen in the pick up tube.Oh! One more question..the butterfly plate on the air side has a fairly large hole drilled through on side of its "wing".Is this normal?
Thanks all!
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:23:26 PM
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Sorry I havent got that far, it is takeing a bath of liquid wrench and PB.And now I have a BIG blood blister from my WI I got going today......... Has a lever start you pull up on, think a fella would have learned to wear a glove after the first try at this one.....
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:58:10 AM
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Everett Hayden Everett Hayden is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester
the butterfly plate on the air side has a fairly large hole drilled through on side of its "wing".Is this normal?
Thanks all!
Yup, the hole is normal.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:08:37 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Thanks Everette..glad I didn't solder up that hole! Every time I work over one of these FH's I remember why there's such a long time between buying them...always some head scratcher and never easy.So this one..bad flywheel and back plate.Found replacements but the replacement back plate wouldn't fit the hole in the crankcase.It swelled up! So had to turn that down.Mounted it and found the coil dowel pins wouldn't match up..they also had warped out of position.I opened up the holes a bit in the armature rather than try to bend the back plate.Got that to fit.
Reworked the whole ignition system.No spark.made a new breaker tip..no spark.New insulators..no spark.Replaced all the wires..everything..no spark.See where this is going? The flywheel magnets were very weak.I could feel voltage in the plug wire if I turned it over.I could flash the primary and get a gap spark.Finally I decided to have the flywheel recharged...talked to the guy today.
Well...went out tonight before removing the flywheel and just for the heck of it..spun the engine backwards.It sparked! Not much but it sparked! I rechecked the rotation of the engine and it wouldn't four stroke going backwards...but it sparked.I fiddled with this for about ten minutes and then rewound the rope pulley with the pull rope and guess what? A nice fat blue spark! These FH's drive a guy crazy...good thing because you have to be to want them! Tomorrow...I'll try to start it...I won't sleep tonight wondering what else can possibly go wrong...
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:32:00 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

I finally got the old Briggs to run..It was the flywheel. The first flywheel I bought had strong magnetism in one magnet...almost none in the opposite.I considered having it recharged but was more or less disgusted with it.I put it back together and put it aside.I happen to run across a reasonably priced flywheel on Ebay so bought it.I put it on and wow! Snappy blue fire! Took right of and runs like a champ!
Now I have a question...the short little choke tube that fits on the air intake.Mine is gone and I have to "choke" it a bit to get it to smooth out....otherwise its lean.Is this choke tube assembly used to find the "sweet" spot in fuel/air mix? I always thought it was just a choke for initial starting but my other FH has the same characteristic.Any thoughts?
Also on a different engine...there is an engine on Ebay...an FB Briggs.Not a bad looking engine but has stayed listed for quite awhile.Does this engine look pretty good as far as originality of parts is concerned? I would appreciate any feedback on this.Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:37:45 AM
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Everett Hayden Everett Hayden is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Lester, just open the adjustment needle on the carb a few clicks at a time till it gets good throttle response. Should be about 1 & 1/4 turns out from full closed. If it is the early, not adjustable type then contact
Dennis Wyatt. He repros the short choke tubes and they are a dead nuts replica. Dennis is on the Stak a lot and also sells early Briggs parts on ebay.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:57:19 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

If my goal was to lose...I'd be a winner twice over.So the second flywheel I bought off ebay has good magnets and made great spark.I've been running the engine trying to find this annoying knock.I finally found it.The steel flywheel hub is loose in the flywheel.
Further inspection shows someone tried to tighten it up by drilling a hole between the hub and flywheel and screwing in a threaded stud...aka "dutch key". Obviously it didn't work.Looked good though! I drilled out the dutch key to see if the hub would come out of the flywheel casting..no luck.It's loose but it won't drive out and I can't twist it.I can stick a .004 feeler gauge in on the slack side.
Anyone ever break apart an old flywheel to see how the hub is secured? There must be something in the hub locking it to the flywheel casting.Any suggestions as to how I can repair this? The flywheel itself looks pretty good...just a loose hub.I figured a high strength Loctite between the hub and flywheel would work well (retaining compound) but if I can't get the hub out...I lose.Any suggestions as to how I could save this flywheel? As of right now I have more money invested in flywheels than the engine.Oh well! All fun...right? Thanks Everette for your information too.I appreciate the help.
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:08:28 PM
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

I think you'll need to find a good flywheel, unfortunately.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:58:32 PM
Bill Sherlock Bill Sherlock is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Lester,

You could try some Loctite 290 on the hub. You don't have to dismantle the hub from the flywheel to use it. Just let it seep around the crack and it will creep in by capillary action. I think the 290 is about the same strength as the blue 242.

Bill
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:00:47 PM
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

lester, If you are worried about it, drill 5 holes that go through the steel hub and the pot metal as well, then tap in roll pins. The hub and wheel are pretty well secured together and I have two or three that have the same type of play in them. This does not seem to pose a problem though because I had run them a lot before I found the source of the small knock. Only heard it when I turned them over by hand.
The only added stress will occur during start up it seems to me and I do not run my small engines at shows, around crowds of people.
Everett
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:20:34 PM
Lester Bowman Lester Bowman is offline
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Default Re: FH Briggs & Stratton.

Those sound like good fixes to me although I'm like Everette...wouldn't want to run them at shows.I contacted the seller and he had no way to tell the flywheel hub was loose.He is sending me another flywheel to replace this one.I would say any of those flywheels have at best warped a bit out of shape.
I really have to laugh...these little FH's are a pain! I really like them though..have a nice look to them and easy to work on....if you can get past rust holes in the oil pan,head bolts breaking off.bad flywheels,bad coils,fractured back plates,rust filled fuel tanks,worn butterfly shafts,worn main bearings and a host of other things.I've never found one that needed a simple tuneup...good thing because they all needed oil pump and oil pan repair.
So Everette mentioned it too...a knock.His had a small knock...mine a big knock.Both because of loose flywheel hubs.Might be something to look at if yours knocks..
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