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Antique Engine Archives All archived posts from 1999 to 2004 when SmokStak was on EnginAds. This is a read-only board.

Antique Engine Archives

Rust removal...


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  #1  
Old 09-06-2000, 11:01:32 AM
Robert
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Default Rust removal...

I posted this link to a site which fully explains the electrolytic method of rust removal last year. There is a gentleman on the Stationary Engine List (I believe) who has the same process explained in layman's terms on his homepage. Perhaps someone else can post a link to his site if they know it?

I have used pickling vinegar (7% acetic acid) with good results: it is quick, safe and requires no power or heat. The ingredient which does the work is ACETIC ACID. I just tried the 1 in 12 molasses solution with no results, perhaps it wasn't warm enough for the mixture to ferment and produce acetic acid, I don't know. Vinegar is a lot cleaner anyway. It can be used straight or diluted, remove all grease and oil first. I'm sure this is no news to many, but for what it's worth there it is.


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  #2  
Old 09-06-2000, 06:43:42 PM
Russell Gilbert
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Default Re: Rust removal...

ROBERT I USE MOLLASSES, I MIX IT 1 TO 10, BUT FOUND IT WORKS BETTER ONCE IT HAS STARTED TO FERMENT. (2 WEEKS) IM NOT SURE THAT THE WARMTH HAS MUCH TO DO WITH IT AS MINE IS WORKING FINE AND ITS WINTER HERE IN AUSTRALIA. ITS SLOW, BUT FOR THOSE PEOPLE WHO ARE NOT IN A HURRY, ITS AN EASY WAY TO GO.
  #3  
Old 09-06-2000, 07:40:44 PM
Bill Wright
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Default Re: Rust removal...

Man you guys must have a lot of time on your hands.All that takes to long,sand blast,glass bead,walnut shells,etc.Blast it off.With all of the different types of blasting media available today its very safe so you won't hurt your parts.Just be careful picking what you are blasting and with the right type of material to blast with.Not enough time!!!
  #4  
Old 09-06-2000, 07:50:40 PM
Scott
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Default Re: Rust removal...

It costs too much for some of us to set up for blasting, what with equipment, space, etc. I'd rather spend my money on engines and parts. Patience!
  #5  
Old 09-06-2000, 09:20:10 PM
Michael
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Default Robert...After Rust removal...

Robert, If you are cleaning up a part you are going to paint, use a good metal prep. such as "Ospho" on the metal first. These metal preps. usually contain as a main ingredient light solutions of Phosforic acid, this changes the unseen rust from iron oxide to I believe phosforus oxide which will not further rust. Once the final coat of paint is on you have very little chance of rust forming under the paint. Where I live the humidity is extremely high and I use the metal prep. on everything before I put on the final coat of paint...Michael
  #6  
Old 09-07-2000, 12:22:51 AM
Robert
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Default A couple more things...

Thanks for the comments Ken, Russell, Bill & Michael. 'Nothing I like more than glassbeading but it costs me $30. an hour and doesn't get into blind spaces and while your parts are soaking you can do something else. Ultrasonic cleaners are great too, hang your timer or whatever in there and go and do something else, come back in 20 minutes and anywhere the solution can get will be clean enough to eat off. That's what I call saving time. What's more if you take a piece of iron or steel out of the vinegar after a couple of days and put it in the ultrasonic the neutralized rust just blows off leaving your piece "in the white", cleans out the pits too. Great for cleaning up small parts you can't disassemble. Vinegar is good for brass/copper/ bronze that you don't want to etch with bead blasting or muriatic acid.
  #7  
Old 09-07-2000, 08:09:00 AM
Russell Gilbert
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Default Re: Rust removal...

Bill its all about patience, besides I have more than one engine to work on. While a few bits are soaking Im always working on something else. Another problem at the moment is that it keeps raining and you cant sand blast to good with wet sand. Russell
 

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