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3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration


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  #1  
Old 05-07-2019, 02:01:03 PM
ADDvanced ADDvanced is offline
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Default 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Hey guys! First time poster! I'm having some issues with my recent restoration of a 3hp briggs. Here's what I started with:



A bluebird lawn aerator. It wouldn't run/start, though I did hear it pop over a bit with starting fluid.

Here's a closeup shot of the motor, when I first got it:



Disassembled:
Had to remove the muffler with a hacksaw/air hammer


Resprayed:

I disassembled the carb as far as I could and let it soak in Chem Dip for a few days, then blew it out with compressed air. I replaced the diaphram with a carb kit, but the carb kit I ordered came with a jet that didn't look compatible with this carb, so I left that alone. I'm actually not even sure how you'd remove the jet on this carb.

Reassembled with reproduction decals:



I put fresh oil in the gear reduction drive, and flushed the engine out with fresh oil a few times, and a few capfuls of RESTORE engine compression magic juice.

Anyway, thing would flat out refuse to start. I tried adjusting the levers all over teh place, nothing would work. So I pulled the air filter out, shot some starting fluid into it, and BAM, runs mint! It just kept running and running and running, so I bolted it back up to the (unrestored) aerator to test it out. Worked great! Aerated the entire yard, no problems other than whenever I shut it off, it would just flat out refuse to start again. It will ONLY start with starting fluid, but once it's running it's fantastic.

The whole plan was to start renting out this aerator, so would you guys give me some pointers on what to look for in order to get this thing to start WITHOUT starting fluid?

Cheers!
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  #2  
Old 05-07-2019, 03:18:53 PM
gdstew gdstew is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Welcome----

I would guess that the exhaust valve isn't seating quite right. When the engine is cold, try starting. After several pulls, remove the sparkplug. I'm guessing it is dry, not getting gas. Could be sucking air someplace.
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:32:02 PM
ADDvanced ADDvanced is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

How would you fix something like that?
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:07:57 PM
FlJim FlJim is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Recheck that your choke linkage is connected correctly and that the choke is closing.
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:18:10 PM
K-Tron K-Tron is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

You must have a dirty intake valve or an air leak somewhere preventing the engine from pulling fuel. I see you had the carburetor off of the fuel tank. How did the pickup lines look for the carburetor? There should be fine metal screens on the bottom. You may need to double up the gaskets between the tank and the carburetor to get a good seal. Checking the orientation of the spring and the diaphragm is key to having an engine that pulls fuel. If you are missing the ring which goes between the spring and the diaphragm it may never run right. It would have been prime time to lap the valves and clean the combustion chamber before you painted it all up. One last thing, did you properly gap the coil off of the flywheel when you put it all back together? If the flywheel air gap is too large you will alter the timing of the engine.

Chris
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Old 05-08-2019, 02:24:43 PM
ADDvanced ADDvanced is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlJim View Post
Recheck that your choke linkage is connected correctly and that the choke is closing.
Choke definitely works correctly.

---------- Post added at 01:24:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21:13 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Tron View Post
I see you had the carburetor off of the fuel tank. How did the pickup lines look for the carburetor? There should be fine metal screens on the bottom. You may need to double up the gaskets between the tank and the carburetor to get a good seal.
Looked good, no rust or visible damage. I read taht the pickup line can rust out causing it to pull air not fuel. Screen was intact. I'm guessing it's fine, since once it is running it runs forever.

Quote:
Checking the orientation of the spring and the diaphragm is key to having an engine that pulls fuel. If you are missing the ring which goes between the spring and the diaphragm it may never run right.
I installed it the way it came out, but I am not sure if that is correct. Is there an exploded view anywhere so I can verify that it is correct? I remember the ring. The ring goes against the diaphram, correct?


Quote:
It would have been prime time to lap the valves and clean the combustion chamber before you painted it all up.
I didn't have a headgasket, so I didn't pull the head. Also, it runs fine once it's started.

Quote:
One last thing, did you properly gap the coil off of the flywheel when you put it all back together? If the flywheel air gap is too large you will alter the timing of the engine.
Nope. Have any links on this? I will try searching.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:04:31 PM
FlJim FlJim is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Check that your fuel mixture screw is set to 1 1/2 turns from seated. Also, you may try filling the fuel tank full which fills the reservoir that the carburetor actually pulls fuel from, thus eliminating or identifying the fuel pump diaphragm as the problem.
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:31:44 AM
Ogrebeast64 Ogrebeast64 is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

To set the coil gap, I just use a business card between the mag, adjusted as far as possible from the flywheel and lightly bolted down, and the flywheel. Turn til the magnets are at the coil, loosen the bolts, and it should snap into place. Tighten the bolts and then check for spark after removing the business card.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:52:56 PM
ADDvanced ADDvanced is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Anybody have an exploded view of the carb? I want to verify the spring and ring installation.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:22:12 PM
FlJim FlJim is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Spring first, then the ring, then the fuel pump diaphragm.
The fuel pump pumps fuel from the tank into the aforementioned reservoir and then vacuum pulls it into the engine.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:07:41 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: 3hp Briggs I/C & Aerator Restoration

Usually, the tank is filled to the top before starting. The explanation of mag seting you have been given should work Ok as long as the crank bearings are good. have a close look at the carb mount. if it sets on an O ring, be sure it isnt torn. if a gasket, be sure the face of the carb is flat. The gasket compresses over time, and some guys just crank on the mount screws, which bends the mounting flange. If it is not flat, it will suck air. Next time you cold start, try spraying some carb cleaner around the mouting flange and see if the engine starts. If it does, you will have to file the flange flat or replace the carb. (note, it might take your paint off!)

FIJim had the corect order - spring in carb body, then 'washer' then diaphram, then cover. Before mounting the cover, make sure it is flat. if the screws are overtightenned, the cover will distort and leak air. Placing it on a flat surface (like a piece of glass) and some 200 grit sandpaper will have it flat if the entire surface is shiney when you are done.

While you have the carb off, I would check the valve clearances - .010" exhaust and .008" intake, with the engine set at TDC compression stroke. Clearances set by grinding the bottom of the valve stem. If the clearances are too 'tight', the engine wont draw or breathe properly.
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