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To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron


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  #1  
Old 04-23-2009, 10:54:48 AM
Edwin
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Default To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

Hello Im in the middle of making new valves for my 25 45 Oil Pull and would like to know if cast steel is ok instead of cast iron for the valve body,If anyone can help me id like to hear from you.Also like to hear from anyone who's made their own valves.Maybe show a pic or two.
thanks
Ed
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:59:48 AM
Chris Hudson Chris Hudson is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves

Cast steel is probably better than regular cast iron.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:03:32 AM
19-65Port 19-65Port is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves

Steel heads are ok just a little harder to lap in thats all. Most modern valves are steel or some other hard material. I have taken apart engines clear back to the 20,s and seen one piece steel valves
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Old 04-23-2009, 01:51:14 PM
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Forrest A Forrest A is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves

If you can afford it, stainless steel is a great valve material. Otherwise you can find a readily available valve that is slightly larger and have it cut/ground down to fit. Just watch out for sodium filled valves!
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:02:30 PM
James L James L is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves

I would suggest not using steel, unless you have hard seats in your head. the steel can, over time beat the head up.
I have made all of mine out of iron, with drill rod for stems.
They work great.
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:36:55 PM
Geoffrey Mark Geoffrey Mark is offline
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Smile Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

post the size off your valves on here and maybe someone will have some near the size. i got a set with longer stems than i needed and had them shortened and new groove put into them.they were a great job . good luck
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:43:28 AM
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DaveE DaveE is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

I use stainless. Find a used junk hydraulic cylinder and use the ram. All my home made valves have stainless heads and drill steel stems. I rough cut the heads on the lathe, drill the hole for the stem, press it in, tig weld the top, then true it up in the lathe.
Be cautious finding a hydraulic cylinder as some of the cheap ones are chrome plated and not stainless.
Dave
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:39:35 PM
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Ross Clarke Ross Clarke is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

I have worked as a fluid power (hydraulic) technologist for 30 years now and will offer the following information.
Generally most decent quality hydraulic cylinder rods are chrome plated.
Better quality cylinders will have induction hardened rods. I am not sure how induction hardening will machine???

Quote from a PARKER Hydraulic cylinder catalog
"Piston Rod - Medium carbon steel, induction case-hardened to 54 Rc, hard chrome-plated and polished to 10 RMS finish. Piston rods are made from 90,000 to 100,000 psi minimum yield material in 1/2" through 4" diameters. Larger diameters vary between 57,000 and 90,000 psi minimum material, depending on rod diameter."
End Quote

Only very expensive special purpose cylinders will have stainless steel rods from my experience.

Ross

Hey Ed

Next time I am in Milton I will try to drop around to see what you are up to. Planned on being there next weekend, but don't think that will happen now.

Ross
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:04:54 PM
John Schwiebert John Schwiebert is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

Come on here this cast iron valve thing when out when that Oil Pull was built. I would size up the valves and if possiable I would put allow seats in as well as get the head checked for thickness. I Did a Hart Parr used Mack Valves but the head casting was thin in many places. Well worth the 50 dollar test to know what the head is like.
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:31:30 PM
Brad Hauck Brad Hauck is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

We use Stainless. We machine the stems separate from the heads and both are threaded. We screw them together and weld on both sides of the head on larger valves with stainless wire. The final step is to turn the head of the valve holding the stem in a chuck to get the concentricity correct. These valves will be here forever.

Brad Hauck
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:32:45 AM
Edwin
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

Hello and thanks to all who gave some input on this subject,i forgot to mention this head has been seated so i would say it's a steel valve seat,so if a steel seat and a cast steel valve body were to be used would this be OK in time? Cast steel on a steel valve seat would that be hard on the seats?I dont have any stainless i thought stainless steel wasnt stable with heat,i know the tractor doesnt get that hot,but still was under the impression that its not to be used i will keep this in mind in the near future,the problem with the cast steel is what do you do after you've theaded it and need to weld both peices. Then you would have to silver solder or braze the cast steel valve to the drill rod stem would this be OK or is this a poor way of making them.should i go buy a peice of 4140 for 63.00 a ft and put this to rest.
thanks
Ed
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Old 05-01-2009, 05:11:54 PM
John Schwiebert John Schwiebert is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

First of allhow large (length stem diameter & head diameter are your valves.? I would throw the whole cast iron idea out. Many valves are made out of a good steel material and then an alloy is depositied on that. I don't get this seat wear concept you have at all. You run an alloy seat and an alloy valve in all modern engines.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:53:18 AM
DMontague DMontague is offline
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Default Re: To make new valves - cast steel / cast iron

Edwin,
Are you going to ream the guides? If you do, I would ream to a size that I can get a piece of turn, ground and polished (tgp) 4140, use that for the stem and a piece of steel for the head if you have hard seats. TGP 4140 is available from Mcmaster Carr. Dont forget to ream a couple thousandths larger for clearance.
Just my thoughts,
David
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