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Paint Shop Tech. Talk about paint removers, thinners, primers and application techniques plus related topics. Rust removal, paint substitutes and color matching.

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What paint and primer should I use?


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  #1  
Old 08-31-2010, 09:25:23 PM
1953R 1953R is offline
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Default What paint and primer should I use?

i have a 1953 john deere r i was wondering if i should use the john deere paint and primer or go to the auto parts store and get ppg and have it color matched help me out its my first time also any tips
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:47:06 PM
Jimmie Bee Jimmie Bee is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

What has worked well for me is the two part primer. After drying it seems it has to be ground off. It is self-etching and is real good stuff. I believe it it goes by K1000. Then I use the JD classic green from the dealer. Other folks have real good results with other stuff, also. I use a little hardener with the JD stuff and a mid-temp thinner.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:54:26 PM
Mike Rock Mike Rock is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

I need the same kind of help. I Googled K1000 two part primer and got nothing on paint. Any other ideas what it is?

Someone else have a good two part etching primer to recommend? Rodney?? I have a lot of horse drawn machinery to go over.

Thanks.

Most respectfully,
Mike Rock
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:03:03 AM
Rod Fielder Rod Fielder is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

A really good 2 part primer/surfacer that is very high build is omni mp 243. It is a polyester surfacer, the same bases a body filler. It is the most reasonably priced of the ppg line. It can be brushed, but works best if sprayed. You can get it through the local ppg dealer. You can put any type of paint over it, even lacquers, but it must be sanded first. it fills in deep pits and cast. As for the paint, a 2 part is best. Tractor supply sells alkyd type paints and hardeners, which don't have a lot of uv protection, but will work on items spending most of their time indoors. Acrylic enamel with hardener is the next step up. I has good uv protection and is moderatly priced. The next step up is polyurethan based 2 part paints or clears. They have very good uv resistance and are more expensive than the acrylics. The top of the line is straight urethanes. The cost more, but are gasoline and alochol resistant, almost bulletproof. If you deal with a ppg auto store, they will also have the acrylic enamels and the polyurethanes in the omni line, which is much cheaper than the ppg, but won't hold up quite as well. I have been painting street rods and restorations for almost 40 years and have made hundreds of test panels and set in the back of an old truck out back. I know what works and what doesn't, and i have the proof. I used tractor supply alkyd on my steel houseboat on the davits, cleats, and railings. I used omni acrylic enamel on the hull and cabin sides. The alkyd looks like dull primer after only 1 year. The omni acrylic enamel looks as good as the day i put it on 2 years ago. Both types were catalized with their correct hardeners. The only clear that if have found to adhere and hold up on polished aluminum and polished brass is ppg dau 75 clear with dxr 80 catalyst. I have had it on polished parts for years, and it still looks as good as the day i put it on. Most clears will not stick to brass or alulminum if it is polished. The same 75 clear is all i use on bare or stained wood. If you want a semi or eggshell finish on any of the above paints or clears, use ppg dx 685 flattening agent. If you want to paint over rust and get back to work, use por 15, but don't ever put it over shiny or sanded metal, it will fall off, guaranteed. Rustoleum is for yard ornaments. The metal will rust under it, but is better if you apply their primer. I know you rattle can guys will argue all of this, but after 40 years, i have the proof on the hundreds of panels i have made and tested.

Rod
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:34:44 PM
Dave McCray Dave McCray is online now
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

Guy,s
Listen to Rod as he knows paint and can certainly back it up!!! I personally use PPG DP two part primer on all my restorations,As well as PPG Concept color coat..works good for me....although a little pricey..Do it right and do it once...in this case you get what you pay for...
Dave
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:19:04 PM
1953R 1953R is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

i found dupont acrilick primer and i think ill use john deere paint with an automotive wet look hardener

---------- Post added at 09:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953R View Post
i found dupont acrilick primer and i think ill use john deere paint with an automotive wet look hardener
iment acrylic sorry
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:24:32 PM
Rod Fielder Rod Fielder is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1953r View Post
i found dupont acrilick primer and i think ill use john deere paint with an automotive wet look hardener

---------- post added at 09:19 pm ---------- previous post was at 09:13 pm ----------



iment acrylic sorry
check paint labels and types. Some don't play well with others. The john deere paint will probably be an alkyd and the wet look with probably be an acrylic enamel. Do a test panel to see how it sprays and lays. Might curdle up in the gun or cup. I'm guilty of doing this myself, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

Rod
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:52:01 AM
nuge nuge is offline
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Default Re: what paint and primer should i use

You get what you pay for. Rod knows his stuff. I use PPG DP90 epoxy primer, which is catalyzed. I use a surfacer over that when the need arises, to eliminate surface defects. Metal must be bare and cleaned properly, but can be applied directly over clean, sand-blasted metal. Apply prior to using any fillers to avoid any corrosion, since polyester fillers will absorb moisture, causing corrosion to the surface if untreated. Urethane 2-stage paints are the best imo, but costly. The Omni brand is a good, less expensive option to the top-of-the-line PPG as Rod stated. It all depends what kind of end product you are attempting to achieve and what your budget is. Always try and stay with the same product brand for all your applications or primers, surfacers, base coats, and top coats, to avoid problems with compatibility. This is recommended with any paint system you may decide to go with. Whatever you decide on, follow the instructions closely, paying close attention to the mixture ratios, application pressures, and temperature. Apply when the humidity is low.
If you are looking for professional results, use professional products. Go with a 2-stage base-coat clear-coat product to achieve UV protection for longevity.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:41:28 PM
Shock Shock is offline
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Default Re: What paint and primer should I use?

I vote PPG's DPxx / DP 402 catalyst for the base primer, then a polyester sandable primer (I use one called Polyprimer) on top, and after sanding, then a thin coat of DPxx to seal. I tend to go with PPG's Omni line for the top coat. I've used DuPont Nason recently, but it seemed to like to run. I also had bad luck with Shop Line, also a PPG brand, I think.
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:16:35 PM
Rod Fielder Rod Fielder is offline
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Default Re: What paint and primer should I use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock View Post
I vote PPG's DPxx / DP 402 catalyst for the base primer, then a polyester sandable primer (I use one called Polyprimer) on top, and after sanding, then a thin coat of DPxx to seal. I tend to go with PPG's Omni line for the top coat. I've used DuPont Nason recently, but it seemed to like to run. I also had bad luck with Shop Line, also a PPG brand, I think.
POLYESTER PRIMER/SURFACER SHOULD NEVER BE USED OVER EPOXY. THE EPOXY CAN AND PROBABLY WILL LIFT. I HAD THIS PROBLEM SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE AN OLD FIBERGLASS BOAT REPAIR MAN AND A MAJOR EPOXY AND POLYESTER COMPANY MAN SET ME STRAIGHT. AFTER MANY HOURS OF RESEARCH AND EVEN TALKING TO PPG CHEMISTS, I FOUND OUT THIS SOULD NEVER BE DONE. IT'S OK TO PUT THE EPOXY OVER THE POLYESTER AS A SEALER, BUT NEVER PUT POLYESTER OVER EPOXY. IT COST ME A FEW THOUSAND DOLLARS OF STRIPPING AND RE-DOING 2 HIGH DOLLAR PROJECTS BEFORE I FOUND OUT. NEVER PUT ANY SURFACER OR BODY FILLERS OVER EPOXY PRIMER WITHOUT A 2 DAY DRY TIME ON THE EPOXY. AFTER A 5 DAY DRY TIME ON THE EPOXY, IT MUST BE SKUFFED AND MORE EPOXY APPLIED BEFORE CONTINUING WITH THE JOB. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE ME, SPRAY 2 COATS OF EPOXY, WAIT FOR 2 HOURS AND SPRAY 2 COATS OF POLYESTER. CHECK THE PANEL FOR ADHESION AFTER ABOUT 6 HOURS AND THEN AGAIN THE NEXT DAY. I LEARNED THE HARD WAY. THE POLYESTER WILL WORK OVER VERY CLEAN, DRY BARE METAL AND WILL HAVE A VERY GOOD CORROSION RESISTANCE, ESPECIALLY IS EPOXY IS USED AS A SEALER BEFORE PAINTING. THE PROBLEM WITH THE EPOXY PRIMERS NOW IS THE GOVERNMENT TOOK ALL OF THE LEAD AND CHROMIUM OUT OF THEM. THESE WERE THE AGENTS THAT MADE THE EPOXY RUST PREVENTIVE. 6 YEARS AGO, YOU COULD SPRAY EPOXY ON BARE METAL AND LEAVE IT OUTSIDE FOR YEARS WITH NO RUST COMING THROUGH. NOW PPG'S DP'S WILL LET RUST COME THROUGH IN ABOUT A MONTH. I CONTINUALLY DO TEST PANELS ON DIFFERENT PRODUCTS TO SEE HOW WELL THEY PERFORM. GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS ON VOC'S ARE THE REASON A GALLON OF COLOR OR CLEAR COST HUNDERDS OF DOLLARS. RESEARCH AND DELELOPE MUST CONTINUE ON A DAILY BASIS TO KEEP UP WITH THE EPA.



ROD
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:33:33 PM
Shock Shock is offline
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Default Re: What paint and primer should I use?

Rod, I'll defer to the vehemence of your experience, but I've been doing it that way for a long time without problems.

Regards,

Grant
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:36:24 AM
putzwithall putzwithall is offline
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Default Re: What paint and primer should I use?

not to hijack your topic but i didn't see anyone mention much about dupont's stuff... my favorite of course
they have several commercial and value lines of polyurethane enamels that imo is the best stuff out there. NOTE: urethane does not necessarily mean polyurethane- there is a difference. check out the imron lines namely imron 5000, imron industrial, and excell (fairly new) yeah it is pricey but no more than ppg and imron 5000, industrial, and excell are all ultra high solids allowing you to spray only 1 coat and a crosscoat and be done- you dont have to let it flash and spray another coat...or two and you will use far less material. accelerator is also available which works extremely well. also, most major equipment manufacturer's colors are all available new and old. i am a commercial truck body tech and use this stuff on a daily basis.
sorry if i sound like a salesman, i'm not, i just love how this stuff makes my job easier

---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 PM ----------

[QUOTE=Shock;563504]the top coat. I've used DuPont Nason recently, but it seemed to like to run. /QUOTE]
great stuff shiny smooth but lots of coats and definitely thin as water- and need lots of flash time between coats even with fast reducer. not much good for anything rough
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