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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Rock Island F?


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  #41  
Old 09-27-2014, 07:36:37 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Thanks Bud but I still don't understand their application. You don't normally put a gasket on a gasket unless something is warped or?

Got at RI today getting it ready for winter work. Weather can change real fast this time of year and usually does. Hit 96 degrees here Thursday any yesterday was just about same. Probably next week everthing will be frozen.

Spent alot of time brushing the teeth on the old girl. I wanted to check every one. Everything appears in very good condition. Shift rails are now free and all gears work as they should.. Full chassis has had it's first bath in years.

Have old crank in new crankcase setting up bearings. Now have all major components to start building. Found pistons today that should work. My Buda blocks are all messed up. Have three blocks and all three have 2 tin sleeves and 2 bored. These motors had to have serious wear problems.(oil)(tar)


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  #42  
Old 09-28-2014, 01:43:08 AM
Bud Tierney Bud Tierney is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Sorry, can't help on how these gaskets go together or are used.
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  #43  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:35:56 AM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Ran into a couple of issues with oil pump. Brass screen needs to be patched as it has several holes. Cam drive to oil pump gear will need to be built up. This Buda has a very small set of oil pump gears as compared to most tractors. It would have a tough time moving the old thick oil especially when cold. Gears are no more than an inch in diameter. Can't see how pump would have much volume.





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  #44  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:23:15 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Soldered brass screen in bad spots and sealed all seams that were torn. Had friend repair oil pump shaft. Crankcase will installed finally.
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  #45  
Old 10-05-2014, 09:01:46 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Rock is back in one piece! Crankshaft and crankcase in position. Clutch set up, ready for block,waterpump,and externals. Got steering moving and shifter working. Almost 2 full days to accomplish!
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  #46  
Old 10-05-2014, 09:42:31 PM
Brasherman Brasherman is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Forward to tomorrow then! Nice to hear of progress!
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  #47  
Old 10-06-2014, 07:49:43 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Here is a couple of pictures. Will be at a standstill until more parts arrive.











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  #48  
Old 10-06-2014, 11:03:21 PM
Brasherman Brasherman is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Grease her up good and batten down for winter! At least it rolls on its own.
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  #49  
Old 10-10-2014, 08:45:09 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Waterpump and complete drive setup arrived today. Will be installed tomorrow. Initially when rod broke and went through the crankcase it smashed waterpump drive housing and broke shaft in half. Also got original clutch lever now just have to make a linkage. After insallation of pump timing cover can be installed as well as crank jaw and governor. Sleeves will be installed shortly. Will be using set of .30 over MM U diesel pistons. Comes out close to 4 3/8. Will be undersized as original is 4 1/2. There is alot more " meat" on the sleeves as compare to the tin ones. These Buda blocks were bored to extreme limits to accomodate the 4 3/4 replacement pistons. No wonder they didn't stand up! MM pistons have same pin diameter but Buda rod is wider. So will just cut of top of MM rods and box on to Buda originals as babbit is good.
Head is being planed and valves done.
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  #50  
Old 10-12-2014, 08:33:37 AM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Water pump installed. Took a whole day to disassemble, repair rotted bolts,clean shaft and all components. Impeller is good and body. Have to make up mag coupler.










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  #51  
Old 10-12-2014, 10:48:24 PM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Awesome! One question I wanted to ask: How are you planning on doing the rod boxing? Would it be easier to mill the inside of the piston to match the original rod end width so you wouldn't have to do that?
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  #52  
Old 10-14-2014, 10:28:06 AM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

I would think the reasoning behind boxing the rods is that three of the four rods had bee previously welded. Being a weak area near weld and also probably not trued could be his reasoning. The machinist working on block is very particular as most.
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  #53  
Old 10-17-2014, 08:46:23 PM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Snow will probably arrive before block and rods are ready. Meanwhile have carb ready as well as intake/exhaust manifold. Radiator appear to be good as have flushed several times and not leaks. Rebuilt governor using parts from two. Will be cleaning fuel tanks and making new fan belt. Have to make a hand crank setup and clutch linkage. Friend has a RI model G so I can copy parts as has same chassis except motor.
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  #54  
Old 10-17-2014, 11:00:45 PM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

we used a MM crank, but had to be extended for one of ours. the clutch linkage rod is very simple and can easily be made, its just a rod with flattened ends with a hole drilled and threaded. The G is the same on a lot of things as the early F's, but there are other differences, and there is a good bit of difference between an early and late F and a G. the G and very early F's used a cable linkage for throttle and mag, most F's use a rod linkage. the hoods do appear to be the same dimensions, I have a photo of our G with our F's hood on it, key difference is the hinge holes for the side panels.
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  #55  
Old 10-18-2014, 09:23:47 AM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Must be a coupler of some sort to connect crank to motor. Have lots of MM cranks off a U. Are they spring loaded? I will have to find length of clutch rod and diameter. Is there any kinks in rod? It doesn't run straight. The G I am going to compare to is one of the 4 early ones.
Found another F a few miles away. It sits on a pedestal about twenty feet in air and is painted up. Used at the entrance to fairgrounds. Will get a picture next time i am in the area.
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:17:06 PM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Spent more time on F this weekend. Made up clutch rod. Cut off length and heated up ends red hot and pounded flat on anvil. Drilled 1/2 holes and installed.
Installed fan and made up new fan belt. Reinstalled gas tank and mounts. Have to get new fitting for oil pressure gauge. Believe it or not this is the original Rock Island gauge and it works!
Next problem is hand crank. RI in their wisdom decided to put crankjaw on hand crank not crankshaft. So crankshaft has pin with 1 7/16" guide shaft so I need a 1 1/2" crankjaw center. I am using a hand crank off a TC KTA as it is proper length and has return spring. I just need to find or make a jaw. None of my parts tractor have a jaw that is big in center. I was thinking of using a socket off my 3/4" set and cutting it out to match. Any ideas are welcome!
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  #57  
Old 11-09-2014, 08:08:43 PM
J Ware J Ware is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Gary, would the piece you need be the same as one on a McCormick Deering 15-30 22-36, they are cast and pinned to the starting crank. Jim
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  #58  
Old 11-10-2014, 12:31:57 AM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Gary, 20-35 Allis used that setup. I have an extra one or two.

The jaw end is 1 5/8" ID and 2 1/16" OD. Looks to engage a 1/2 in. pin. Shaft is 7/8". If it will work for you, let me know.
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  #59  
Old 11-23-2014, 07:21:45 PM
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Finally found a couple of hours to spend on RI. Installed oil pressure line,radiator and clutch linkage. Also got a crank jaw from Phil and made it work. Seems like a decent match. Pistons arrived this weekend so hopefully block will be done soon! This was our first snow and it is still fairly warm out. The radiator is quite a lift to put on. It must weigh 150 lbs!




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  #60  
Old 11-30-2014, 05:52:43 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Rock Island F?

Rod bearings are going to need work. Appear to be poured with lead instead of babbit. They are poured different than any other. Need specs for journals. One crank is close to 2 1/8 and other 2 1/4.
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