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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers


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  #41  
Old 03-13-2016, 11:56:35 AM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Johnson View Post
Jacob, how did you get the bearing sleeve out?
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. After unsuccessfully trying to come up with a configuration of snap ring pliers or whatever misc junk I had in my toolbox that would fit down into the sleeve and grab on the holes, I ended up getting a long punch down through the seal end and drive it out by the holes. Did what I know I shouldn't have and used a regular punch (couldn't find a brass one) and ended up boogering up the holes a bit, but a little work with a file and that was fixed.

The bearing sleeve is in there fairly snug. I had to put a clamp on it to get it started back into the hub, it was too strong to just squeeze it by hand to get it started.

I'm still convinced if a guy had the correct right angle-long nose-special tip pair of pliers to grab on the holes it would come out easily. But now that it has a new seal, I should never have to worry about taking it apart as long as I'll ever care

Thanks for all the advice guys, I really do appreciate it!
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  #42  
Old 03-13-2016, 10:38:13 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

It was so nice here today I set up the bench and chair outside to clean parts!

Got the front crank pulley cleaned up

Note the old welded up repair. It's been this way for this long, I'm not even going to do anything with it, adds character

Got the governor mounting bracket cleaned up

And a new gasket made for it

This gasket is needed because the locating pin goes into the governor housing hole, which is drilled through to where the oil is. Strange design, which they changed in later years.

I tell ya, the '27's were an odd bunch. There are a LOT of little things that are different from other years.
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  #43  
Old 03-13-2016, 10:54:17 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Then I cleaned up the water elbow. This connects the water pump to the lower radiator outlet with two pieces of hose and four hose clamps. In '28 they changed the design of the water pump outlet to angle toward the lower radiator outlet, along with the lower radiator outlet being angled up, connected by one piece of hose and only two hose clamps. They were still cutting costs of production. So talking about '27 differences again, the water pump casting, lower radiator tank, and cast elbow are all different from '28 and on 20-35's.




The ends are a tad pitted and crusty on my elbow and water manifold (which I'll get to in a minute) What do you guys like to put on castings that are rough like this to help seal them up against the hoses? What is the best "schmootz" to use?

---------- Post added at 09:54:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47:10 PM ----------

Then I cleaned up the water manifold. This connects from the top of the heads up to the top radiator outlet with a piece of hose.


I have to touch up (smooth out) the surfaces where the manifold meets the heads a bit yet, bit that is nothing a trip to the sander can't fix.

The intake manifold was next.

I think I'll get a long round wire brush to clean out the inside passages a bit better, but it is looking pretty good.
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  #44  
Old 03-13-2016, 11:05:40 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

And last for today was the left spindle. Got it cleaned up and got a game plan on how to redo the spindle bushings cost effectively. More on that at a later date.



And with that, I'm about out of dirty parts here with me to clean up!

My sister is expecting in the beginning of April, so when she has baby I'll be making a trip back to WI. Then I'll be UNCLE Jacob, it's exciting, I've never got to be an Uncle before.
I'll have to bring some more parts back with me then, though the dirty pile is getting smaller than the cleaned up pile, which is a very good sign!
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  #45  
Old 03-13-2016, 11:43:31 PM
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Russ Hamm Russ Hamm is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

On the pitted cast water manifolds and connections i just clean them good and use grease when the hose goes on.
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  #46  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:45:15 AM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

I've made good repairs on pitted water manifolds, especially if the pits were deep, by cleaning them up to bare metal in the blast cabinet and then filling the pits with JB weld or similar. Sand them smooth and paint and your good as new.
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  #47  
Old 03-20-2016, 03:34:18 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

One more step forward on Big Al.

I got the new piece of brass tube soldered into the carburetor plug to replace the original tube that was cracked up.

So can anyone explain to me what the purpose of this tube is even for? It is capped on the bottom with the plug, and is open on the top even with the top of the center jet thing. So nothing actually goes through it. I guess as long as it works, I'm OK with the answer to "how does this carb work?" being "magic".
Ha!
So the carb is all done now, yeah!


I also finished cleaning up the water manifold and water elbow and intake manifold. I smoothed up the gasket surfaces on the sander, and got a round wire brush to put in the drill to clean up the inside of the tubes better.
I also took your advice Phil and got some JB Weld. After I wire wheeled up the areas where the hoses go, I smeared some JB Weld in the pits. After letting it dry over night I filed and sanded the necks smooth.



Wow is that nice! I have a confession to make, I have heard of people using JB Weld for years, but this is the first time I actually have used it myself. That stuff is awesome!
Quick (probably dumb) question with it. Do I need to paint the ends, or is the JB Weld fine left raw? Will the antifreeze hurt it if not painted? I'm not painting this tractor, so that is why I ask.
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  #48  
Old 03-20-2016, 05:29:16 PM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Anti freeze shouldn't hurt it unpainted. I've never had any trouble as long as the JB weld has a good bond to clean metal.
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  #49  
Old 03-21-2016, 12:13:53 AM
Charlie1925 Charlie1925 is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Thanks Phil & Jacob WI ; I also have a pulley on my Allis model " L " 15/ 25 that is welded, Also one of the cylinders is welded and I was also told that gives the tractor character. I did not know that J B Weld could be used on pipes, like Phil said. Back when I was working on my model " L " I used some J B on the oil pan. what I ran into was the oilpan had a lot of holes in it ,cut off bottom of pan, then weld new bottom on , then the fun started, A oil drain pug was brazed in at MFG time , Well one can`t weld to braze, So I used some JB to unit the new bottom to the oilplug. That was back in 2009 and it is still holding. Sounds and looks like you are having lots of fun reworking this tractor. Roger Weinhold AKA Charlie 1925
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  #50  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:17:05 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Yes Roger, I AM having a lot of fun restoring this tractor!

And I have a few more updates on it. I made my trip home last weekend, and brought the parts I had done back, and loaded up some more to bring back to ND with me.

While in WI Dad and I made time to get the clutch out of the tractor, and I amazingly got the clutch housing all cleaned out! Man was that a dirty mess! I believe it was Craig that compared an antique tractor clutch housing to the bowls of hell? It's a fair comparison.






Dad also located the square head bolt for the rear pivot of the front axle from Fastenal
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  #51  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:24:42 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

My buddy Kyle has also been making good progress on my governor. He got the shaft all disassembled so the worn pins could be replaced, and a new bearing can be installed.

Note the worn pins were blind pinned in place, so they had to be drilled out before they could be removed.



New pins in


Keep up the great work Kyle! Once he's done this governor will be good for another 90 years
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  #52  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:36:08 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

So here is my next step, to fix the clutch fork shaft. The ends are some kind of messed up on both ends. I still haven't figured out WHAT happened to them, or what someone did to them to get like this?
Any ideas???
I assume there should be a grease zerk in both ends?

right end. There are some threads about a 1/4" in from the boogered up end.


Left end appears to have a piece of steel hammered into the hole?


They obviously were set up for grease originally, as the passages are there on both ends.



I plan to drill both ends out bigger, tap and plug. Then drill and tap the plug for a grease zerk. Unless you all have a better idea?
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  #53  
Old 04-17-2016, 12:55:28 AM
Brasherman Brasherman is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Maybe I am missing something, but why would you need a hole on both ends? I would think that if the rod is bored all the way through, one grease hole is enough to force to the other end as well? I obviously haven't seen this part, so just blue skying a question. Progress looks good.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:32:12 AM
maceymadness maceymadness is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

So you could Grease from what ever side you where on, without walking around to the other.
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:20:32 AM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Maceymadness and Brasherman, let me clarify my previous post. The grease hole does NOT go all the way through the length of the shaft. Only in the 3" or so from each end to the perpendicular hole. But that was one of our first thoughts too, that it may go all the way from the one side.

But good thoughts! Any other ideas why they would have plugged the one hole?
OR how they buggered up the other?
If only these old beauties could talk. We may never know.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:08:04 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Hi all!

Well I got the clutch fork shaft all fixed up! I drilled out the bad end and tapped it for a 5/8" bolt. Put a bolt in with a little locktite, cut it off flush, and ground it smooth. Then drilled through the bolt and tapped for the grease zerk, wallah, good as new!



The other end I was lucky. Once I got (what I figured out to be) the old mashed up grease zerk out, the threads were ok. I chased them with a tap and they are good to go! I guy gets lucky once in a while.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:15:34 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Now on to the clutch.

I brought that back to ND with me the last trip home, and this weekend I took to cleaning it up and getting it disassembled.


This shows how the clutch break works. When you pull the clutch handle back it engages the clutch. handle in the middle is clutch disengaged. And if you push the handle all the way forward it engages the break, which stops the transmission from turning, so the tractor stops.


Gear taken off.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:20:04 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Then the rest of the assembly could be taken off of the clutch shaft.



Then the snap ring could be removed and the bearing could come out.


And the rest of the pins and linkages could be taken apart.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:36:26 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Now we get to the questions portion of my postings, LOL!

The collar and shifter assembly are quite worn.
good side.


bad worn side.


and a look at how much play there is between the collar and shifter.


The collar itself doesn't appear to be worn too bad actually. Which is surprising, being bronze it should wear faster than the shifter. I suspect it has been replaced in the past?



What is the best course of action here to fix this? Have it welded up and turned back down to size? Turn true and install a spacer? There is like 1/4" of slop front to back on these parts, and I suspect it should be about none, correct?

Craig, did Mark have to address this issue when he was in the clutch of his 20-35? By the way, the pics of that project with the clutch out are what convinced me to pull the clutch on mine too! Might as well whilst the engine is out right?.....

Thanks in advance for any advice!
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Old 05-01-2016, 06:04:38 PM
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RustyRelics UK RustyRelics UK is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Thanks for posting the pictures of your progress, they will come in handy as a reference when I pull the clutch out of my 20-35
Keep up the good work
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