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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers


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  #101  
Old 04-27-2019, 02:11:13 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Story time,

So I made a trip back home for a long Easter weekend. Got to spend some time with the family, and also got to spend some time working on tractors.

We kinda were ridding the struggle bus this trip. I was getting a bit frustrated. Not sure why, I should know by now things never go smoothly. I'll try to sum up the weekend in a shorter version.

The goal was to get oil in the 20-35 and belt it up to my 1948 Allis Chalmers C and turn it over to check for oil pressure, flow, bad noises, etc... in preparation for starting. We weren't ready to try starting yet, as water pump is still not done. But now have the bushing materials and tooling for the lathe, so almost there.

Easy enough goals right? Wrong.

Got the oil, that was easy enough. Didn't get enough the first time (2 1/2 gallon jug wasn't enough!) , so had to make a second trip to store.
Fill engine up, ok.

Had to still get the push rods cleaned up, Dad put them in lathe, cleaned and polished them up a bit.
Pics of that:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GQFhEjzGGfdXBezu8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UD2x8doXdXcrkvAd6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ftcuM77DB5dekniF6


Got them put in tractor and adjusted the valves. Set them to .020"

I had made up the "tool box bottom braces" as per the specs in the parts manual, so I installed the tool box on the deck of the tractor.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/95S5MiFZo3aj9MMt6

To backtrack a second, while I was still at my house I had taken two original fuel strainer bowl assemblies (with bad castings) and taken them apart, and took the best parts from them and assembled them on a new casting from a new assembly. To form as close to original fuel bowl assembly as I could manage.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qyiCvEn5ovZTu9qc8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iQWdnKrmR9xt9ZJ19

We still need to patch tank, but the bowl is ready. And I got new 5/16" flexible copper line to make the gas line.



Ok, we were almost ready to belt it up. But my C needed some work. I recently had switched from a distributor to a magneto. Again to make a long story short, the governor timing gear was off two teeth to be timed correctly for a magneto. So we took that apart and corrected that. Got the tractor timed up and started and fiddled with it a bit to get it to run good, as it hadn't ran since last year, and not much at that point either. drained old gas and put new in. Cleaned plugs, etc... Finally got running and changed oil and filter as that needed to be done. Adjusted the valves on that too, as they were way off. (we didn't know much when we "restored" that tractor back in 2003)

Ok, got a running tractor to run the belt (only running tractor we currently have that has a belt pulley on it). Now we need a belt. Had previously borrowed a belt from a friend to use for this, but when we unrolled it and started to look at it closer, it made us a bit uneasy. It was a bit sketchy. Played it safe and decided to make up our own. We had a good piece of belting, but there were no lacing ends on it. Bought the clipper lacing ends. But we do not have the installation tool to put the lacing ends on the belt, sigh.....
Asked around and Dad finally found one of his friends had one. Got them installed.

Ok, we had a belt and a tractor, got it made now right?
Nope.

Got the tractors belted up, but discovered we had bad belt slippage. And no belt dressing. Have I mentioned lately we are rookies? And this was on my last day home, and end of the day at that.
So we *kinda* got the 20-35 turned over. Enough to see oil coming up to the rocker covers, so the oil pump must be doing it's thing. Didn't get it turning over enough to see how much pressure we actually had.

Then discovered the oil tube to block connections were leaking, so took a step backwards and took that apart to have to fix that.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EBy45sykeQp3YEzR9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BxWmzEZP6m9Nw1BZ6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5nqR5zkmSRNTZj1o9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2gX1vWh97GG9t4a8

Can we count any of this struggle as a victory?
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  #102  
Old 04-27-2019, 04:46:31 PM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Sounds about normal for getting an old tractor resurrected from the dead! Often a process of three steps ahead and two back!!
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  #103  
Old 04-27-2019, 08:28:04 PM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Guess we both had a not so good tractor weekend. Jeeesh! you still have distributor for c/ca?

---------- Post added at 07:28:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26:35 PM ----------

You'll get her done.
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  #104  
Old 05-23-2019, 10:58:53 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Well ladies and gentlemen, four years of effort finally payed off this past weekend!

I made a trip back home to WI last Thursday. Our goal was to try to get my 20-35 to finally run. But we had some hurdles to cross before we could do that.

Dad and I started the morning at 4:30 Friday morning. This is not normal for me, but I knew we had a lot of ground to cover in a short amount of time. We began by making up a spark wire tube out of the material I had gotten from McMaster Carr. Cut it to 25" the length the parts manual called for. Laid out the holes based on my old one, where the clips were located, and rough guesses based on pics from the parts manual. We went with four 5/8" holes drilled in a row. Used a spade bit. Cleaned up with a little sand paper, all worked well.

Rounded up everything we thought we'd need and headed to the woods.

Got the spark tube installed on the engine, and ran the spark plug wires. I ended up leaving them a couple inches longer than the parts manual called for, for now. I didn't want to short myself, can always shorten them later.

Rigged up a temporary gas tank, since the original tank is still in the process of being fixed.

Still had to address the leaky oil tube. First we tried to put it back together like before, hoping we just had one of the copper washers in there cocked or something stupid. Tightened everything up.

Pulled the 20-35 out of the barn with my little Allis C. Then hooked the two together with the belt pulley. Now was the time to see if the belt dressing was going to do the trick.
Began to turn the 20-35 over and Dad sprayed some belt dressing on the belt, that stuff is like magic! Belt softened right up even more and became "grippy" rubber. Nearly no more slippage. Awesome, I know I shouldn't be so amazed, but it is the little things in life that you learn sometimes.

Well, we have good grip, lets turn the engine over some and check things again. Spark is still not hooked up. Turn it over a bit and the oil tube is still leaking. Not quite as bad as before, but still bad nonetheless.

Take it back apart and scratch our heads what to try next. After some discussion decided to try making thin paper gasket washers the size of the copper washers. One for either side of the copper washer on all three places. All back together and turn the belt over some more. Very little to no leaks! Tighten things some more and try again. Appears to be not leaking now, great.

Also there is 25 lbs of oil pressure, and no bad noises, that's a good sign. Remove engine side covers and feel around bearings, nothing seems warm, so fairly confident everything is ok down there.

Time to figure out some spark. Get engine so #1 is at top dead center on compression. Fiddle with mag and get it where we think it needs to be and couple it with the water pump. Turn engine over again back to TDC on #1 and see if mag trips when it should. Nope, it don't. So we change things and try a few more times. Finally get it really close. With Dad looking at #1 piston with long piece of wire down spark plug hole I slowly turn over as he watches. As it gets to TDC or just a fuzz after the mag trips. Perfect, that should be good to go.

OK, we have spark, compression, and hopefully gas.

All systems appear to be good to go!

Add water to the cooling system. Several leaks in the various connections and in where top and bottom tank meet core on the radiator. Address these where we can. Holding enough for now, can revisit more leaks later.
It is getting late in the day and we still have not tried to start it yet.

Are we ready now? I think so. Are we forgetting anything? Probably but lets give it a go.
I hop on my C and Dad gets on the 20-35. Turn it over and it makes no attempt to start. Hummmmm...... Why not? What are we doing wrong? Scratch heads. Double check things. We are getting gas, yes. Spark timing is right, yes. Hummmm.....

Dad asks me "Are you sure you have the firing order correct?"
Well I hope so, let me look at the manual again and check how I put the wires in the cap.
Firing order is 1-3-4-2, that is correct, hummmmmm.....
But WAIT, I was using the diagram for a Clockwise mag, this is an Anti-Clockwise mag, I have the right firing order, just the wrong rotation! Swap two wires with each other and that is better.

Let's try again, almost time for supper. We each hop on a tractor again and this is what happened:


This is the honest to goodness first start, bad as it might be. As can be seen it was set wayyyy to rich initially, but once Dad started screwing down the adjustments you can hear it smooth right out and all the black smoke goes away.

It quickly ran out of gas, so we filled the little tank again and started it for the second time:




In the interest of full disclosure, things were still not right at this point. I'll elaborate in a minute, but for now it was getting late and we figured we better call it a day. Still had to put everything away and head back for supper, which we were already late for.

Pulled it back into the barn under it's own power!


More to come...

---------- Post added at 09:58:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23:14 PM ----------

So we packed up and headed home. Emotions are mixed at this point. Obviously happy that the tractor finally is running after four years of work. Still shocked that it actually came to life. Adrenaline was pumping for sure that first fire! Fear as well, listening for bad noises, hoping nothing goes wrong, and that we didn't forget anything important. I think this is the worst for me, after all this time, I really don't want to wreck something.

It is kind of a roller coaster of emotions.

But talk about satisfaction! It has been a long road getting to this point.

After the excitement simmered down a bit, and we were home, we got to talking about how the throttle (governor) control didn't seem to be doing anything. And why that was?

I was a bit puzzled, so I called in the advice of a pro. I texted my friend Matt Folstad who within the last year or so has been through the exact same things on his tractor, which is the exact same tractor as I have. I told him what symptoms we were having. He said I probably had the spring for my carburetor butterfly wound the wrong way.
I looked through my pictures, and sure enough, on the finished carburetor pics the butterfly is shut, it should be open!

It rained all day Saturday. So we didn't go to the woods.
It rained and then SNOWED all day Sunday, so we didn't go again.

But come Monday, we were itching to get at it!
First thing I did was go out there and switch that spring around.

With the spring in the carb right, it actually started on the third hand crank Monday morning!
Still needs work, but here is the maiden voyage.



Dad had an appointment with Mom that morning, so he met me out there about lunch time. By then I had gotten the carburetor fiddled with and fixed/adjusted/ done a few other things. Started flushing out the transmission with diesel.

So he took it for a ride then.


As did I:


So all in all it was a VERY good weekend. We worked on it some Tuesday, and then also worked on some other projects. I headed back to ND on Wednesday.

Still need to figure out why it doesn't want to idle down lower like I think it should?
Not sure if it is still a carb spring issue, or something else?

Well, that is enough story time for one night. I'll post more later.
But I do want to give a HUGE shout out to everyone who has helped me in any way with this project up to this point!!! I don't want to list names because I'd surely leave someone out, but I hope you all know who you are, and how much I do truly appreciate everything you have done to help! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!
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  #105  
Old 05-24-2019, 09:47:11 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Congratulations are in order...that was a very interesting progress report.
On the idle issue first check to see if the governor linkage adjustment is keeping the throttle plate propped open slightly. If the plate is closing all the way then look for an air leak...usually a loose throttle shaft or a intake manifold leak on an old tractor. Also if throttle plate is "spring drive" engine vacuum may be opening it independently of the mechanical linkage if the spring is weak.

My own personal preference for the transmission flush is to use used trans/hydraulic oil of which I can get for free at the local JD dealer if I supply the pails. While diesel fuel is a more aggressive solvent it is a very poor lubricant and can only be used for a short time before bearing galling becomes a possibility...especially on the shafts that are rotating at engine rpm. The trans/hydraulic oil can be left in the tractor until it is subjected to drawbar work.
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  #106  
Old 05-24-2019, 10:37:11 AM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Congratulations on getting it going, Jacob!! Sounds pretty healthy so far. There will be a period of fine tuning ''til you get everything right and the tractor is happy. Each one is a little different and it takes some time to learn what settings it likes best to run.

On my two, the oil pressure is higher, but 25 lbs is more than adequate.

Transmission noise sure varies on these tractors from one to another. I think it may be due to it's use in it's past life. Many of these didn't see much drawbar work but a lot of belt time. Heavy gear oil will eliminate quite a lot of the noise. My '28 has very little gear noise, but the '29 is quite noisy in low and especially reverse. I suspect adjusting or replacing the cup and cone transmission bearings to eliminate the play would help a lot.

Looks like you and your Dad had a fun day!!
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  #107  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:05:40 PM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Congrats on the good run! I completely relate to the first start jitters. As we have spoken about before. Finish up the littles and you'll be off on your next project.
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  #108  
Old 05-25-2019, 04:33:00 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Ok, been doing a lot of reading online today trying to figure out what my next step is for the transmission.

I thought I was doing good by flushing the transmission with Diesel, and it definitely did flush a LOT of ick out. But now I wonder if I should have used a hydraulic oil or something like you suggested Mark? I hope I didn't hurt anything as far as bearings, etc... We didn't drive around much, just what you see in the videos.

So the question is, what is my next step? Should I put some oil of some sort in to flush the residual Diesel out before I put in the proper lube?

Now about the proper transmission lube, still have not 100% decided what I should use, but really leaning towards this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EP000-Sem...Pail/114263539

And if I do go with this 000 grease, will having residual diesel in the transmission, or residual oil to flush the diesel out, hurt/contaminate the new 000 grease?

I am trying to do this right. I really am

I also realize there is a good possibility that the transmission may need to be broke down in the future to replace bearings/seals. But for now I just want to have it usable for this show season, and cross the rebuilding bridge down the road.



As for the not quite low idle issue, I think it is an adjustment issue yet. Fairly sure the manifold gaskets are all ok, since everything was flattened and all new gaskets etc... but I have not tested this by spraying around them.
Could be throttle shaft leak, but I did put new shaft and bushings in when I rebuilt the carb, along with O rings. So that should be ok as well?
I think it is that stupid spring. Might have to try adjusting it more, or make a new one. Maybe the original is fatigued?
Gotta be something simple.


As for oil pressure, I agree 25 pounds should be adequate. But this can be adjusted in the oil pump check ball. At least I think so? I know when we put the pump together we just made an educated guess as to where the adjustment should be based on about were it was. See the tang sticking out the back of the oil pump:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LQEviYPC4qNRFpSo8
You can see the check ball in the part on the right in this pic. In the recess of the casting. The tang adjustment has a spring behind it against the check ball:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kxu66gh5gDv3z9aY8

Would turning in this tang, increasing this spring adjustment, and check ball pressure, increase the overall oil pressure? Or is this just the extreme pressure release in case of blockage and this check ball is not even opening?

Besides adjusting it and seeing if there is a difference in oil pressure, is there any way to know this answer?

So many questions, I know...
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  #109  
Old 05-26-2019, 11:37:44 AM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Hi Jacob, the engine sounds good! With a few adjustments you should be about done. It looks like in the video that your enrichment lever is pulled back which would be dumping fuel in pretty heavy. That could be why you had to turn the main in so much to get it to clear out. Did you try the lever forward to make sure?
On not getting it to push the butterfly closed to idle, make sure the governor rod is bent properly so the two 90 degree ends do not bind. Then I believe you can adjust the the stop screw with the jam nut on the cast arm coming out of the governor to get a little more length to close the butterfly. You may still have to play with the spring tension on the butterfly to get the proper governor action first.
I recall the Allis book stating 15 psi of oil pressure is normal. My tractor was 25-30 psi when I first ran it, I had to remove the pickup screen through the bottom pan hole and turn the spring pressure down. A couple turns and it still is at 20psi. Next oil change I will back it off some more.

On your rear end grease, I think if you just pull the plug and let the diesel drip out for a day or two, just fill with your 000 grease and go with it. Should be fine. If you have the top cover off you can wipe the bottom of the case out with rags to get any pooling diesel out or sometime find bits of interesting stuff!

Matt
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  #110  
Old 05-26-2019, 02:39:48 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Thanks Matt,

Well, we thought we had the enrichment lever off, but now you have us wondering. We had it back, thinking that was off because when we pushed it forward it ran worse. At the time we assumed that was because it was getting too much gas then, but now thinking about it, like you said, I bet we have main jet adjusted down to run ok with the enrichment lever ON, instead of with it off. HUmmmmm , oops!
Have to check that out, might solve some more problems! But like your butterfly spring suggestion, I bet you are right!

That's what you get when you leave us rookies in charge of trying to get something to run

I too am wondering if that cross over arm from gov to carb is needing adjustment, and/or the adjustment on the gov arm needs tweaking. Man I wish I was still home to play with these things!

Ok , good to know the oil pressure is adjustable with that oil pump check ball then. But now for another dumb question, isn't MORE oil pressure a GOOD thing? Educate me please.

Sounds like a good plan with letting the diesel drip dry, then give it a good wipe and inspection through the top cover. I need to put new gaskets on the top cover anyway. I hope there are no bits on the bottom
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:03:36 AM
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

My '28 Allis shows 60 psi cold and about 45 psi hot. This is an original unrestored tractor from an old friends Dad and the engine has never been apart according to the family. My '29 runs about 35 to 40 PSI but the '29s have a different oil pump than the earlier ones. I believe both gauges are accurate.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:34:28 PM
Charlie1925 Charlie1925 is online now
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

JacobWI; It`s a great day when you get one of those tractors running again, Sounds real good, now some metal work and a little paint and you well be ready for the Allis Chalmers shows. I remember the day I got my 1925 model " L " running back in 2012 after a 40 year rest, Sounded like it did when my father bought him back in 1947 Good luck and keep up the good work.
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Old 08-10-2019, 05:11:00 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Oh boy, it's been a couple months and I have not been keeping up on updating this thread. I'll try to get you all caught up again.

Since my last post I made a trip home for the long 4th of July weekend. That would be our last big push to get the bugs worked out of the system to have the tractor ready for the Orange Spectacular show in Hutchinson MN the weekend of July 26th 2019. That had been our goal for some time.

So we had brought the gas tank to a professional welder to have a new bottom put in, as the old one was rotten and very thin. Dad had done the prep work and cut the old tank bottom out, used a pneumatic tool to put a step in the tank for the patch to sit in. He cleaned up the inside of the tank. He also took apart the original sediment bowl fitting so it could be re-riveted and soldered to the new bottom. Brought all this to the welder to see of he could put it all back together. Welder said sure. This was a few weeks before I came home for the 4th, all Dad told him was that we needed it back before the 4th, no hurry, no problem.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jgcZ3EUiKbiNxndx7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QDxFk6KXt5Z3cBzv6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pKy1YAVU5CkBhofZ8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v98tWTrhqjSJ5FkZ6


Jump ahead and I'm home for the 4th. Still no tank back, call him up and he'll have it done that day, stop by that next morning. Ok, so we did, and he was still working on it, sigh.... we told him we'd stop back that evening on our way back to town. We did, appeared ok, paid the man and went on our way.

So after all this, and us not trusting anyone these days it seems, we decided to test the tank ourselves when we got home (even though the welder told us he had tested it and it was not leaking anywhere). Did the old little bit of air pressure in tank and spray with soapy water trick. Leaks everywhere!

Sigh... not happy, but not about to bring it back to him after all of this. We were not 100% happy with how he had done things as it was. I'm not going to say who this welder is, because I have seen some of his other work and it is beautiful, fixing tanks is just not his thing I guess, and he had admitted he had never really done that before. Chalk it up to experience.

So we tried our hand at soldering up the leaks. Tried a propane torch and solder like doing a copper pipe first (as we both can do that no problem), and that was a fail, started warping the tank from the heat. Then we went to YouTube to look for ideas, after watching a few videos we tried plan B.
With a large old soldering iron, and a good heat gun to preheat the area we were working on, we were having success! Cleaned the area well, fluxed, heat with torch, then hit with soldering iron and solder, and with a little practice we were sealing them up. This may not be the right way, or the best way, but it worked with what we had to work with and our abilities, LOL!
After many tests with the soapy water we finally got to where it was leak free.

I apologize for not documenting this well, or at all for that matter. We were kind of frustrated, so I didn't stop to take any pics or videos.

Finally got the tank put back on the tractor, and rounded up the flair fittings and bent up a gas line. Hooked up the rebuilt fuel bowl, and gas line to the carb, put some gas in and.... more leaks, sigh.....

So the NEW fuel bowl casting was warped and the glass bowl was not sealing up. We made a softer cork gasket to get by that day, but later Dad took it off chucked it up in the lathe and trued it up, and that fixed the problem and once again we could use the nice rubber gasket.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BxcyTSeyc6uavggR7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GkLLT6RatJfppjfm9
Not sure if I shared my rebuilding pics before? Took the parts of two original bowls and one new and made one good mostly original bowl assembly.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s1vr7TKyJCsfscP67
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfvE1pW5HerYnnVV7

And then after all this, ran it for a bit turned off the gas and it was still dripping and not shutting off, what the heck?! Ended up a piece of rusty crud from the tank got in the shut off seat and galled it up. So take it all back off and apart, touch up the seat and needle and put it all back together.

---------- Post added at 04:11:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:37:57 PM ----------

So the tank is back on the tractor, gas hooked up and good. We fiddled with the governor linkages, the carb butterfly spring, and whatnot and were making much improvement to how it was starting and idling down nicer.

Oh did I mention that the radiator had to come back apart and have the core patched in one place by the radiator guy? So once that was done Dad put the radiator back together and that is holding water now. In fact the entire cooling system is essentially leak free! Tiny drip from the radiator drain, but I actually have a new one coming to replace it as the lever is broken anyway. Again, we are not impressed by professional help, the professional radiator guy couldn't even get the overflow tube extended properly, it fell off in Dad's hand once he got it home, so Dad soldered it on himself correctly.

Jump back, I forgot to mention that Dad had gotten the transmission cleaned out and new 000 EP Grease dumped in before I got home. So we then put the new transmission cover gasket on, and installed the cover for good. Then we could bolt the firewall all back solid as that goes over the transmission cover.

Once that was done we turned our attention to straightening out the hood. Little body work to make it more presentable and we put that on the tractor for the first time and actually bolted it down.

Jump back again (trying to get stories caught up is tricky when you're this far behind, LOL!). I had ordered up a sign from Vistaprint. I designed it online and they print it on sign board which is thin aluminum over a plastic core. I'm impressed with it. I made up the stand from junk I had laying around. It folds up for transportation.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4zyUXRoGCyMiVUMCA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dEQgGBgc2sc5jhSg8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Hqq7meoRiKw258d7

Then we turned our attention to putting the extension rim back on that had been off and fixed years ago at this point. And tightening up all the loose bolts on the other extension rim. And the loose bolts on the final drives. That was a work out! Getting them loose and tightened up on a hot July day, who needs a gym membership when you have old rusty iron to work on?!

And we spent some time doing some more "body work" on the bent up left fender. Still needs a lot of work, but considering how bent it was to start, it is MUCH better. More work can be done some day when that wheel comes off so we can actually swing a hammer inside the fender to tune it up better.

So we had the tractor about together and most of the bugs worked out by this point, it was high time for a test drive!
We took it all the way out to the road and back (maybe a mile), which was the farthest it had been thus far. Here is a short clip from that adventure.
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  #114  
Old 08-10-2019, 06:28:40 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

So things were going pretty good, no major new problems were coming up, sure little ones, like chasing oil leaks etc... but that was minor in the big picture. We make the final decision that we would be bringing the tractor to Hutch, and I went back to ND.

Then things went downhill fast.

A week or so after I was back home Dad texts me that we have a major problem and probably shouldn't run the tractor any more. My heart sank to the pit of my stomach.
He sent these pics.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XA1rpk1k8esDknXd7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VbJrnVGYYjPo6nJ28

It is kind of hard to see, but the bottom edge of three of the lifters were chipping off. He was getting ready to give it an oil change and had pulled the side covers off to see how things looked and check for anything that may be wrong. It is a good thing he did!

So to make a long story shorter, what happened again ties back to professionals not doing their job right, and us not knowing any better at the time. Very very frustrating.

So go back 4 years or so, back to when we had initially broke down the engine and brought the parts to the machine shop to be re machined. They were to bore out the original sleeves to accept the new(old) 5" pistons, and assemble the rotating assembly of the block. All the bearings, etc... the short block as they say, and we would take it from there.
Which is what happened.
Back when we brought it to them we asked what should be done with the cam and lifters. They told us they would POLISH the cam and RESURFACE the lifters and we would be good to go. We said OK, that sounds good, as we didn't know any better and trusted them that they knew what they were talking about.

Well it turns out that was a HUGE mistake. Everyone I talk to now says you always grind a cam and the lifters to match on this kind of a rebuild. If it was a running engine and just doing a freshening up might be a different story. But the machine shop knew this was not the case.

So what was happening is the cam is BADLY worn (unbeknownst to us) and putting all the strain on the edge of the lifters, and possibly with failing lifters due to quality issues of the lifters themselves, everything started chipping.

So we did bring it to Hutch, but only ran it minimally with magnets in the pan and did not run it on the belt pulley dyno like originally we were planning to do. It was still worth the trip, as a previous owner got to see the tractor run, and he had never seen it run before, as it was a project way back when he got it! He dang near teared up when it started up. And on two quarter turns like it should, so that made us look really good. Getting to show him really made us happy, and like I said, made all the effort worth while!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v7gSWnasrHoscHZ38
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vAZWwbqu68p9WaKh9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/agFKWJ3hJnPJDjx66
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xseEuGRXwSSX4KBb6


The good news is I got two umbrellas at the swap meet at Hutch, plan is to take the AC canvas and put it on the other stand, and with some repair and fab up a new holder have a nice vintage shade maker for the 20-35!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGLUDbVrMmwmUGnT9

More bad news, we went to start it up for a friend Saturday afternoon, and it wouldn't start as the mag impulse quit working intermittently. It had never missed a click up until this point. So we got it running luckily, loaded it up on the trailer and pulled the mag off and gave it to my mag guy which happened to be at the show. He took it home and fixed it, and I just heard back today that it is ready to go again!

So we limped it home from Hutch and got it rolled into the garage in the rain of course. The day before I had to go back to ND we tore the tractor back down to have the cam and lifters reworked. Went smoothly, as we knew how everything goes together by this point, LOL! Less than three hours we had it apart.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GNREtz2juX4MjqpA7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tA31PRkDESuPyxTG8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZuazaoqeZ7nr4q5f8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iQeUm2vZfR7gjLsa6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/quCXdXC5bkv1b7iNA


And as long as things are open and apart, I snapped a pic up to see if I could see any casting numbers in the pistons. I knew they were 5", but then people were asking what KIND of 5" were they? And I didn't know.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y86aYguyQQP8KzpRA
well, now I do. They all have number 209643 cast into them, and looking that number up in the parts book tells me they are the 5.2 ratio Gas Allis Chalmers pistons. Because there were other manufacturers of pistons aftermarket, for example "DeLux".


So once we got the cam out we took a good look at it, and boy was it worn bad! Can't believe the machine shop would have OK'd anything like this. Won't be going back to them again.

So the folks delivered the cam and another set of used lifters to Berry Cam in Lester Prairie MN. They went and picked them up today so things can start to go back together now.

The plan is to have it up and running for our local show Northern Aged Iron in Highbridge WI September 21, 22 2019.
http://www.northernagediron.com/
Where we can hopefully actually work it and see what it can do!
If you have nothing going on that weekend, we would love to see you there!
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  #115  
Old 08-10-2019, 07:42:17 PM
Duey C Duey C is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Wonderful AND yet some heartbreaking updates but moving forward!
Thanks Jacob!
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  #116  
Old 09-30-2019, 10:06:01 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

It sure in fun when things go as they are supposed to!

So I was back home in Ashland, WI for a little vacation and to go to Northern Aged Iron show by Highbridge, WI September 21,22 of this year.

Dad had my 20-35 all put back together with its newly reground cam and lifters to match. Everything seemed to be good, so the plan was to bring it to the show.
But first we temporarily put the kinda (not really) period correct umbrella that I got while at Hutchinson, MN show in July. Actually it was two broken umbrellas, and between the two we took the good parts and made one good umbrella.

Ultimately I want to move the mounting point to the left rear fender, but that fender needs some fixing and straightening yet before that can happen.
So we mounted it to the front right corner of the dash area.
The forecast was for rain, so I just wanted it up to shed some water.
The weather ended up being fairly nice. Sprinkled a bit Saturday but nothing I even needed to get my rain coat out for.

I was excited to finally get a change to work the tractor a bit! I got to exhibition pan pull for fun. I had no idea what it would do, so I went very last just in case it decided embarrass me. It has no real lugs, just some bolts for a little bit of traction. So obviously I ran out of traction long before I ran out of power.



Ended up going 117 feet 9 inches. Not bad for no traction, and not knowing what I was doing, LOL! This is literally the first time I had pulled anything.


Then I got the opportunity to power the threshing machine for half of a wagon load. We switched off so others could try their tractors too. This was very fun as well! We were having a little carburetor issue, so you'll see dad helping it along a bit. It ended up being the butterfly spring was catching *just* a bit, which was just enough to cause issues. Once we were home I took it apart and tweaked the spring ever so slightly, and it seems to have fixed that problem. All part of the game, getting things set just right.

The little bit of black smoke bugs me a bit. Not sure if the carb jet settings are not quite right, or if it's burning a bit of oil because everything is new and the rings have not seated yet?


I took it through the parade on Saturday, and Dad took it through on Sunday.


Had a chance to drive it around the grounds a bit with several different people, and my little nephew being one of them had a blast!

Although I should take this opportunity to emphasize safely. We almost had an accident, and I could have done more to prevent it. I was sitting on the seat, and Nephew was standing in front of me steering the tractor around the grounds. I was operating all the controls. We went over to the pulling track to wait in line. I stopped the tractor to wait, with another tractor in front of us. We were watching and waiting and I turned around to wave and get the attention of my folks and sister on the other side of the grounds to have them come over and watch me pull, and to take nephew while I pulled.

As I was doing this, nephew reached over and pulled back on the hand clutch. The tractor started going forward, so I quickly snapped back around to figure out what was going on, and get us stopped! Luckily I got us stopped before we went hardly anywhere, but if I had not been quick on the draw, we would have ran directly into a VERY rare tractor.

I immediately explained in a firm but kind manner to nephew that he can NOT touch levers unless he has permission, and explained to him what could have happened. I think he understood.

But as I mentioned I could have prevented even that happening. I was sitting with the tractor in gear, and the parking brake not locked. Had I put it in neutral, and locked the brake, when he pulled the clutch lever back all that would have happened would have been the belt pulley turn.

Remember, things can happen in a split second. I was lucky this time, but everyone please be careful out there!

But it was a very fun weekend, I hope to see some of you at Northern Aged Iron next year!
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  #117  
Old 09-30-2019, 10:26:24 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

AirFox photography takes some nice videos, and drone videos for the club. Be sure to check them out if you like this kind of stuff. Here is the parade on Sunday. Dad taking my 20-35 through is about the 16:50 mark.
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