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Hit & Miss Gas Engine Discussion

Original finish is rust. Options?


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  #1  
Old 03-08-2009, 10:19:46 AM
John Drabik's Avatar
John Drabik John Drabik is offline
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Photo Original finish is rust. Options?

I`m considering leaving this Aermotor windmill pump with the rust it had on it as I found it. More to preserve it so it can be done over later if I please.
Question I have is should it be given a coat of the 50/50 boiled linseed oil / mineral spirits or maybe a clear Urethane directly over the rust? Any other suggestions and options?

Not that I`m concerned about ruining the value of the pump Aermotor pump but there doesnt seem to have been many made
Thanks, John
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:10:13 AM
Rich Hudak Rich Hudak is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

I would consider wire wheeling the coffee grounds off of it, then oil it off with your choice of preservative. I wouldn't use chemicals or paint. My .02
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:40:08 AM
Kevin Kusel Kevin Kusel is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

Rich I seen the finish on your standard engine and looked very good. Tell me the secret and what the process was to get that finish.
KK

BIGFLYWHEEL@AOLCOM
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Old 03-08-2009, 02:56:44 PM
spfx_dude spfx_dude is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

I brass wire wheeled my last few and then the lindseed oil. Looks great! Much more interesting than being coated solid with paint. Check out pictures of my Fairbanks 15hp restoration in my website gallery.

Leo
www.engineutopia.com
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Old 03-08-2009, 03:32:58 PM
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

I just mixed up a quartercup of 50/50 mix linseed/ mineral oil and tried it on a spot. Not dry yet but I like the looks of it already. And I also found a bit of the original green paint.
Thanks for the advice
John
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Old 03-08-2009, 03:42:27 PM
Don C. Wiley Don C. Wiley is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

John;

Be sure to use boiled linseed oil or it will take for ever to dry. A friend of mine used plain linseed oil on some redwood siding and it was still sticky ten years later.

"DELCO DON" Southern Illinois
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:16:46 PM
Peter Peter is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

I am with Rich on this. light cleaning and apply your choice of oil, LPS2, LPS3 or or rust inhibitor, tranny fluid, grease, whatever. My 2c.

Forget WD40, it evaporates and eventually builds up a crappy yellow reside and its a waste of money, for a piss poor protection and looks.

I really really don't like linseed oil. Ive seen some, years later, develop a horrible coloration or pealing, cracking and wrinkle. In cases where linseed was placed over original paint it peeled off with the origional paint. Yukk! There maybe a right and wrong way. I sure dont care to hear about it or trust any suggestion regarding that horrible stuff. Except on wood, where it belongs, I would avoid that stuff like black death.

Last edited by Peter; 03-08-2009 at 06:15:37 PM.
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:55:00 PM
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

The linseed coat will most likely be a temporary measure. Buys me time till I decide to really do it up. Finding a bit of original green color gives me more to think about. I`m not in any rush and it will pump water regardless of the finish.
At some point I will probably sandblast it, run it thru electrolysis and give it reasonably accurate paint job.
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:23:25 PM
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wegotallama wegotallama is offline
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Default Re: Original finish is rust. Options?

If you apply a coating over active (red) rust, you will seal some moisture under the coating. The process of oxidation - rust - will continue. Humid or rainy days will make it worse. You used to see this when companies like Rusty Jones were pushing after market undercoating for cars.

Some of the top experts working in museums or on university conservation projects immerse objects in melted wax at temperatures above the boiling point of water and keep it submerged until the object gets to the wax temperature. This will drive off all the water and seal the surface.

I have never used this process. Wax is the best for museum work, but not practical for many applications. However, if you warm the surface - cleaning with a wire wheel as an example - it will have the same effect.
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