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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration


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  #41  
Old 12-29-2009, 09:29:35 PM
EngineBob EngineBob is offline
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Great thread! Nice pictures! What more could one want?
EB
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  #42  
Old 01-06-2010, 11:27:45 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Tonight I made a big step forward in one of my personal goals. I finally got the Gib Key removed from the clutch hub after I made a puller. All other attempts failed and I was worried I'd have to drill out the Gib Key if the puller idea didn't work.







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  #43  
Old 01-06-2010, 11:34:11 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

With all the fighting, I was surprised how easy the Gib Key finally gave away. So I hoped the clutch hub would give the same results. I noticed the clutch hub had thicker metal and beefed up around the two holes in the clutch hub face. I used my 10 ton hydraulic puller and removed the hub from the crankshaft. Now to get the flywheel removed from the other side of the crankshaft. I'm just so glad everything came apart without any breakage, minus the Gib Key head.







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  #44  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:34:10 AM
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Thumbs up Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

You pulled that key EXACTLY as I would have! You can build up and grind a new gib head.......
Great update!.
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  #45  
Old 01-12-2010, 04:08:21 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

I stopped at the machine shop today and took a few pictures to share with you guys. This is the block along with the new sleeves. Only two busted studs out of eleven.







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  #46  
Old 01-12-2010, 04:16:59 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

It's hard to tell with these photos (I'm no photographer) but the cylinders are pretty pitted and rusty. This engine seems to have more wear than I originally thought.







Can't forget the glass beaded pistons.

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  #47  
Old 01-12-2010, 04:35:23 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

This is what the cylinders looked like before.







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  #48  
Old 01-12-2010, 04:41:23 PM
Paul Roidt Paul Roidt is offline
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Looks good, did that engine have sleeves originally or were they installed later?

Paul
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  #49  
Old 01-12-2010, 09:27:39 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Well Paul, that's a good question. I do not believe the Titan was a sleeved motor. I did wonder if this block had been sleeved in it's past myself, however. I'm no Titan expert by any means, but I'm thinking she's never been sleeved before. I didn't see a line (two different metals) in the spark plug holes, but again they are not cleaned out real good yet either.
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  #50  
Old 01-12-2010, 09:39:08 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

The Titan 10-20 has a solid block with no sleeves. The ring you see is from the head gasket and it makes it look like a sleeve.
Jeff
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  #51  
Old 01-12-2010, 10:42:28 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Watch that glass beading on the pistons.......
I don't know what you can do to to removed all traces of the glass........
We had our engine internals stuff stainless steel shot blasted which left parts looking like brand new cast iron.
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  #52  
Old 01-12-2010, 11:26:34 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

SproutW;
Nice work and many pictures of the Titan.
Somewhere there was mention of a 1926 IHC Regular. Is that the one I got from you and who owned it before?
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  #53  
Old 01-13-2010, 08:26:37 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Hi Ed, good to see you. Not sure which mention you are talking about. The 26 you got from me came out of Iowa. Sloroll had it at one time. He might know the person before him, but the trail went cold quick. Any progress on that 26?
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  #54  
Old 01-31-2010, 09:14:15 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

I'm tickled to share the flywheel is now separated from the crankshaft. For the longest time, I could not get the flywheel to budge with my homemade puller. I finally broke down and heated the flywheel hub. I heated the hub to where she was warm to the touch. That little bit of expansion finally allowed me to push the flywheel an 1/8 of an inch on the crankshaft.

I did try pulling the Gib Key a couple times before I was able to budge the flywheel. All I accomplished was broken Gib Key pullers. Once I pushed that flywheel just a tad, that was enough to unlock the Gib Key and get her pulled.







No more Gib Key.

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  #55  
Old 01-31-2010, 09:41:05 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

My basic and crude puller.







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  #56  
Old 01-31-2010, 09:46:40 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Appears the counter weights are not only bolted to the crankshaft but also have poured lead around the studs.



The complete engine has now been removed from the Titan. Next step is to drop the transmission and pull the wheels.





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  #57  
Old 01-31-2010, 10:00:11 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Now that you're an expert at pulling the flywheel you need to make an extended trip to NW Ohio!

Mike
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  #58  
Old 01-31-2010, 12:17:35 PM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Looks good Sprout. Seeing the pic of the end of the crankshaft close up with your welder ground clamp on the spoke of the flywheel made me think of something to share with all of us. In this case probably wouldn't make a huge difference, but it's very important to attach your ground clamp to what you are actually welding on. By not doing this means that the current has to flow through joints, macined surfaces and possibly different materials to get to the piece that's being welded. If there's even the smallest gap, it'll arc out. This is definitely something to keep in mind when working around roller bearings. In our shop, we build hwy. trailers and we've ruined 1000's of dollars in bearings and seals because someone clamped the ground onto a wheel stud before welding on the main structure of the trailer. After removing the bearing, it feels like there's sand in it, but in fact it's because it arced out between the bearing, race and axle shaft. I could write a couple of paragraphs about this, but that's not what this post is about. It's definitely not a "hand slap" either, just good info for all of us. Keep up the good work.

Jon
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  #59  
Old 02-14-2010, 09:32:33 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

The flywheel is now at the machine shop awaiting grinding.



I removed the front axle assembly from the tractor.



Removed the rear wheel to find excessive wear. The one wheel has so much wear it started rubbing against the frame.



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Old 02-14-2010, 09:37:40 AM
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Default Re: 1920 Titan 10-20 Restoration

Notice the wear on the axle shaft.



This is a video attempting to show the wheel wear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN2ycqZ_7pc



The steering gear box is now removed. Only the transmission and one rear wheel left on a bare frame.

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