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My first Twin City


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  #61  
Old 01-02-2012, 10:32:29 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Got the engine all back together
Next I will be rolling in the chassis and starting to work on that.
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  #62  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:00:22 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Lookin' good, Rick. I'd better get going on mine!
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  #63  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:54:05 PM
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Thumbs up Re: My first Twin City

Very nice job Rick,

Nuts about the old TC’s

Keep on posting the pictures and story’s.

Chris ,
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  #64  
Old 01-03-2012, 02:19:26 PM
Tony Thompson Tony Thompson is offline
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Default Re: My first Twin City


Looks great!
Rick, I would like to know if that 16 valve engine has a
tin/galvanised oil pan and was there provisions on right hand (intake side) for a sight glass/gauge, or the upper & lower test cocks for checking oil levels.
The early tin oil pan is rare and difficult to locate for early production baby twin cams. Much of the production run uses a cast iron pan.
Phil, Your 12-20 is a mid-late 1919. Can you tell me what yours has for an oil level check also please.
Thanks guys,
Tony
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  #65  
Old 01-03-2012, 10:41:56 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Tony

Mine has the tin oil pan with the test cocks, but there what looks like a patch soldered on to the oil pan just above the cocks
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  #66  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:01:50 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

I put the flywheel back on the engine today in the same position that I removed it, but when I set the "TDC" mark to the pointer tab on the engine block the pistons are not really on the top, they are actually about 2in down from top.

Is that correct?
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  #67  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:22:53 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

That's correct if they won't go any farther up.
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  #68  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:49:28 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Something doesn't sound right. Those pistons usually go right to the top at TDC.
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  #69  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:54:26 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Here you go, Tony. My tin oil pan has the twin petcocks and has a plate covering a larger hole just a little above and between them. Last pic is from the inside of the pan.
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  #70  
Old 01-04-2012, 11:16:27 AM
Tony Thompson Tony Thompson is offline
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Ok,
flywheels and oil pans...
Rick, Twin cam flywheels have way to much information on them. There are numerous markings for camshaft events happening before and after TDC that will easilly confuse you.
The best way to know exactly where you are with these is to have the front cover off so you can line up all your timming gear marks and make sure you are at TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE with no cam lobes in a lift position for number 1 cyl.
The flywheel may have been put on in the past in a wrong location.
Another thing to consider...it does not really matter where the flywheel marks line up for your engine to run. These markings are references not requirements. I never use them on any of my TCs. You time your mag to spark at or just after TDC of the compression stroke on number one cylinder. The other three cylinders will be where they belong as long as you have timming gear marks lined up correctly under front cover.
The fly wheel will do its job no matter what position it is bolted on. Scratch the marks clean and look it over better. You should find one of the many markings that only states TDC.
The oil pans...
As stated earlier, later production oil pans are cast iron. A tin/galvanized oil pan in good condition can be hard to find. At the start of production, the first 12-20s had a round tube angled upward from the patched oval hole in your oil pans. A floating cork gauge with an empty/full indicating arrow was inserted down into tube and a sight glass was held on via a threaded collar.

See my post # 82 here...
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showth...t=39659&page=5

I do not know exactly when it happened, but the mechanical gauge under glass was discontinued in early-mid 1919.
The patches rivited and soldered on your pans were done at the factory when the brass drain cocks were substituted.

Phil, your TC hat is on fire!
Tony

Last edited by Tony Thompson; 01-04-2012 at 11:18:08 AM. Reason: Tell Phil his hat is on fire!
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  #71  
Old 01-04-2012, 11:37:54 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

That's OK, Tony! Keeps my mostly hairless head warm!LOL
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  #72  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:52:58 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

I double checked that the timing gears were positioned correctly and I repositioned the flywheel so that the "TDC" mark was in front of the pointer tag while the #1 piston was in actual top position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Thompson View Post
Rick, Twin cam flywheels have way to much information on them. There are numerous markings for camshaft events happening before and after TDC that will easilly confuse you.
Tony
Well your not kidding Tony
My flywheel has 10 marks on it.
During each full turn of the flywheel 2 of the marks (camshaft events)are not correct.
Although as I go through all 4 strokes of the engine, all valves are opening and closing in the correct order and at the right time.
I guess that's all that matters
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:35:55 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

The first thing I want to tackle on the chassis is the front end,it is quite worn out and causing the wheels to lean inward (pic 1).
The spindles and the hole they fit into are not worn evenly, so inserting bushings wouldn't work.
Do you guy's have any ideas other than expensive machining or replacing the entire front end?
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:01:42 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Rick,
Your tractor is 90 years old and has been worked pretty hard. Used parts from other tractors will probably be badly worn also. The only good solution is to have some machine work done. You may be able to clean the spindle up enough to drive a long bushing over it to make it straight again. Then the axle hole could be bored out to fit the resized spindle.
Good luck!
Tony
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  #75  
Old 01-13-2012, 10:44:37 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Well here is the wallet friendly fix I came up with
Since it was the spindle that had most of the wear, I was able to tack on steel collars to the most worn areas of the spindle and then slip a steel sleeve over top of that and then tack weld it to prevent it from spinning on the spindle.
It is a little tough getting it into the hole in the axle but then it will spin with some slight friction and very little wobble.
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  #76  
Old 01-14-2012, 02:47:11 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Rick,

Those wheel spindels, axels are mostly a lot worn out.

Remember that my Oliver 66 standard had a compleet worn out steering house.

It was a lot of work for me to weld it up and bring it back to original sizes.
Spair parts are mostly very difficult to find overhere.

But it seems you can help your self also.

Keep them coming,

Chris
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  #77  
Old 01-15-2012, 02:15:13 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

There is 2 grease fittings for the clutch assembly.
Both are extended outside the clutch housing.
I know that they should be grease cups but I am questioning if that is the original locations for them or should they be inside the clutch housing?
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:20:45 PM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Removed the clutch assembly and discovered that both of the linings are cracked, so I guess new replacements are in order.
Other than that all the other clutch components are in good shape
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:25:11 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

Rick,
The 1/8" pipe that is sticking through the fuel tank saddle may be original. Both of these grease feeds to the clutch should have the grease cup located just outside the housing.
The original friction rings for the clutch were formed into a circle and had the ends stapled together with brass wire.
When the staples wear away the clutch ring tends to open up like yours did. Locate a buisness that does clutch and brake work. Give them the inside diameter and outside diameter and have them cut a pair of rings out of 1/8" thick modern sheet stock. The new rings will be one piece and will not be able to crack open again.
Have them make 4 rings so Phil can get two for his tractor
The small springs at the interior of your clutch hub are there to assist friction release. They will be rusty and suffer from memory loss at best (they generally fall out in pieces), you can replace them with new nickle plated ones of similar tension and diameter from most hardware stores.
One last option...
I like to have the center plate and cast end plates milled off a few thousandths to make certain that they are not warped. This will reward you with a clutch that engauges nice and smooth.
That was a good looking home remedy for worn steering spindles you posted, thanks for all your posts!
Tony
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:13:34 AM
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Default Re: My first Twin City

OK, wait, I am confused Rick. Is that the part of the spindle that the wheel bearings ride on? If so, judging by the threads, it would still ride crooked, but just with a new full surface instead of the old pitted one. Or am I looking at this wrong?
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