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Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Lauson, Maytag, Nelson, Wisconsin and other small air cooled engines. Sub forums for mowers, scooters and powered eqipment.

Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines

Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine


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  #21  
Old 05-15-2012, 12:04:24 PM
sprkplug sprkplug is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Pick up briggs part # 397358. it's an electronic coil for your engine, and no other parts are needed. I sell em' for $40.00, so you should pay somewhere in that area.

However... I still prefer point ignition for slow running engines, and easier starting as they do not require the rpm that an electronic coil does to make a spark, especially at cranking speeds.

Both of those wires you pulled out go to the same place, that being the condenser. They protrude through a hole in the condenser, and are held captive by a compression spring. If you want to repair what you have, remove the flywheel and breaker cover and reinstall the wires.
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2012, 03:28:41 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Start the engine, and let warm up. Turn to high speed. Adjust mixture until engine runs best, then back out 1/8th turn. That's it. If you set to idle good, it will be too lean to run at high speed. The one adjuster carbs always run at a compromise. Nature of the beast! Dribbling gas usually means either the diaphram is bad, or possibly a warped carb body. If the carb body is bad, well either live with it or try and get a replacement. I recently posted on a 5 HP B&S I worked on, carb NLA. It runs, but the carb is badly worn after 30 years of commercial use. Bob's small engine may have a good used one, if yours is worn out. Is there a kot of play in the throttle shaft, where it goes thru the carb body?
Andrew
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2012, 05:58:37 PM
carlsbad carlsbad is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

No, not a lot of play. My engine is very low hours and pristine. The mower still has the original paint it good condition. It was a garage queen (since 1983).

What controls the level in the small tank? It looks like the fuel pump just keeps pumping and overflows the small tank.

I have a milling machine so if the body is warped, I can true it up.

The bracket that mounts the gas tank is a very tight fit against the frame and could be tweeking the carb a bit. I'll trim it off next time I have the gas tank off--soon.

Thanks,

--Jerry
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  #24  
Old 05-16-2012, 08:31:43 PM
oldschoolwisconsin oldschoolwisconsin is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

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Originally Posted by sprkplug View Post
Pick up briggs part # 397358.

Both of those wires you pulled out go to the same place, that being the condenser. They protrude through a hole in the condenser, and are held captive by a compression spring. If you want to repair what you have, remove the flywheel and breaker cover and reinstall the wires.
Thank you for correcting my terrible memory on these.
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  #25  
Old 05-17-2012, 06:55:32 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Fuel pump works full time. It pumps fuel from the tank into the reservoir, where the short pick up feeds the engine. The reservoir is an over flow, as you thought. For initial start, if you fill the tank to the tippy top, you will also fill the reservoir, making for an easy start. If you start with a 1/2 tank or less, and the engine has been transported or has been sitting a while, it will take quite a few pulls to get fuel into the reservoir! NOTE-the choke only works on the short suction tube! It will take time to prime the reservoir. Filling the fuel tank to the top will make starts a lot easier!

Scandia600, if you haven't done so already, B&S makes a tool for compressing the spring on the points, so you can install the wires easily. If you buy a new points condenser set, it comes with the kit.
Andrew
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  #26  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:50:55 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

thanks for the info. I will, though, be getting an electronic coil from Boise Small Engine tomorrow for $35 sooo....
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  #27  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:16:27 PM
oldschoolwisconsin oldschoolwisconsin is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Good it should run great. Dont forget to deleat the point and condenser out. Sure theyre not doing anything, but better to remove them if you arent using them. Then youd be able to put them into another engine that may need them haha
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  #28  
Old 05-19-2012, 06:11:54 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Photo Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Turns out Boise Small Engine doesn't have the coil I needed, so instead I went to MAG, and they had a Magnetron electronic armature, the one I needed! Here it is: (see photo)
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  #29  
Old 05-19-2012, 08:10:55 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Leave the points in! If you remove them, the points plunger will eventually fall out, thus making an oil leak behinnd the flywheel! If you have bought a conversion kit, sometimes they give you a steel plug to pound into the plunger passage. This is a permanant change. No plug, leave the points in!
Andrew
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  #30  
Old 05-19-2012, 09:40:20 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Thanks. wait, what do you mean? just leave it how it is and don't do anything with the point/condenser assembly and it'll be okay w/out me putting a plug in?
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  #31  
Old 05-20-2012, 02:32:41 PM
scotcando scotcando is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Anyone have a picture of the speed control arrangement It is a spring and vane type I am not sure If I have the assy wrong as it only idles unless I manually turn throttle plate when it will then race
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  #32  
Old 05-25-2012, 05:08:12 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Question Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Hey everybody. I've got one quick question about this engine. What is a normal operating temp for these engines? Mine runs pretty warm, but that does not surprise me considering it is air-cooled. That was to be expected. So, I picked up an IR thermometer, and I am going to see how hot she runs. Anyone know what the "ideal" operating temp for this engine is?
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  #33  
Old 05-27-2012, 11:37:26 AM
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Briggs Man Briggs Man is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

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Originally Posted by Skandia600 View Post
Well, here's my newest project, a 5 horse Briggs off of an old Lazy-Boy Deluxe tiller. I just need to build some skids for the engine, and it'll be up and running soon.

GOOD JOB ! It's good to see that there is another "Stakker" adding a "Classic" aluminum Briggs to his collection. Many people don't stop to think that the first aluminum Briggs engines have reached the 60 year mark.

I'm totally dedicated to the post 1949 aluminum designs
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  #34  
Old 05-27-2012, 12:06:17 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

My engine's a "classic"? well, that's good to know! it is undoubtedly going to last a lot longer than any modern Briggs engine...
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  #35  
Old 05-27-2012, 12:53:00 PM
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

It's good to see young people take interest in antique/classic air cooled engines. I too, was around your age when I started collecting and taking apart small engines (that was around 43 years ago) ! I still have that "small engine bug" , even after all those years

I'm guessing that your engine is late 60s - early 70s, but if you give me the numbers on the side of the shroud, I can tell you exactly when it was made..

Feel free to take a look at my Photo Album to see my "Aluminum Collection"..

Keep up the good work, and one day you will probably have a great collection to take to shows with you. Somebody is going to have to "carry the torch" when us old timers are gone


---------- Post added at 11:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skandia600 View Post
My engine's a "classic"? well, that's good to know! it is undoubtedly going to last a lot longer than any modern Briggs engine...
Don't under estimate todays Briggs engines, that's the same thing that "we" said when I was your age, and today those very engines are antiques/classics. The new generation of engines will find their way onto a display stand 50 years down the road and us old timers are counting on you to make sure that happens !!
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  #36  
Old 05-27-2012, 10:38:27 PM
carlsbad carlsbad is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

OK. Long full afternoon working on the engine with a happy ending. I took the carb off again and checked all the surfaces for flat. all were flat. Anyway, I coated the tank gasket and the carb mounting gasket on both sides with silicone based non-hardening gasket sealant.

I also noticed that the lower leg that bolts the gas tank to the engine frame was tight against the mounting base so I filed 1/16" off of it so it would not put a strain on the carb mounting bolts.

I then noticed the gas tank was riding against the mower handle, a very heavy fixed handle. I took it off and bent it--a frustrating hour job as it was very tough.

Finally I put it all back together and felt like everything was perfect. Mowed the lawn and noted it loading up as I mowed and I had to keep reaching down and closing the jet--a trick I have become very good at, to keep it running. So I knew it wasn't fixed.

I finished mowing, drove to the parking place, and turned it off. more gas cameout that I've ever seen. Made a 9" diameter wet spot on the concrete below the tank.

Undismayed, I decided to take the air cleaner off and run it so I could see the gas build up. I took the cleaner off, put the bolt back in to plug the vacuum leak that might be at the bottom of the hole, and tried to start it. At that point it ran out of gas. I took the cap off and confirmed no gas. I quickly blew on the vent hole and NO FLOW. Eureka! could this be it? A guy had suggested this on another forum where I posted this problem. I had dismissed it because I had noticed that it was the original gas cap with a large hole in the top and 3 holes in the inner fiber gasket. No signs of pluggage. I ran to the garage and grabbed an awl and pulled out the fiber gasket and under it was a metal diaphragm with 3 small holes in it that appeard to be rusted shut. I opened them up with the awl and blew the debris out with air.

I started it up and it ran smooth. I was able to adjust the carburator and no fuel buildup. It ran much quieter too now that it wasn't too rich. I ran it for 10 more minutes reveling in success and finally shut it off. No fuel ran out of the carb.

Sadly, on the other forum where I posted this there was another guy--a small engine shop mechanic--with the exact same symptoms. he had concluded that it was the valves needing work and the owner did not want to pay for a valve job and the engine was trashed. What a shame. All it needed was the fuel cap unplugged.

I'm not fully following how a plugged vent on the fuel cap causes fuel to build up in the throttle body but obviously with the gas tank plugged it has a vacuum on it. The throttle body has to go to an even higher vacuum to suck fuel and air in. Somehow the pressures result in fuel building up on the choke side of the throttle body.

It will be great to go out to mow tomorow knowing that the engine will run right for the first time since I've owned it.

--Jerry

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 PM ----------

For those who don't want to read the long version above, it was a plugged vent in the fuel cap causing my engine to flood. --Jerry
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  #37  
Old 05-27-2012, 10:47:35 PM
Bill Sherlock Bill Sherlock is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

A 2 HP Briggs on the wife's little Gilson tiller had a plugged/restricted vent in the gas cap quite a few years ago. It would start OK but died after a minute or less of operation. After several repeat episodes I checked the cap and found the metal insert in the cap had the vent holes plugged with rust. Replaced the cap with a new one and end of problem. I should add though that the carb never leaked any fuel.

Bill
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  #38  
Old 05-30-2012, 08:15:44 AM
carlsbad carlsbad is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Well, now I've mowed 2 days and what a sense of satisfaction to have it running right. It starts second pull with the choke out, push the choke in and it is ready to go. I've checked the oil diligently and can't notice it using any.

I re watched the video of the engine that started this thread and I'm struck by how little vibration it has for a single cylinder briggs and stratton. Mine doesn't seem to be so vibration free but seems more what I would call normal.

Looking at the big hole in the gas cap in the pic in the first post you can see why I didn't expect the gas cap vent of being plugged. I still smile and shake my head at all the hours I put into that carb when it took only about 2 minutes and $0 to unplug the vents in the gas cap.

--Jerry

---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 AM ----------

Did you get it running and the temperatures measured? I wouldn't be surprised to see 400 degrees or so. I wouldn't worry about it so long as you aren't running it someplace without adequate air cooling or in a desert sun at 130 degrees.

Now that I've got my engine running right I'll be glad to take it apart and take any photos you need to work on the ignition.

Mine looks identical yours. My part number is 130232 1680 01 and my code indicates it was manufactured in 1983.

--Jerry
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  #39  
Old 05-31-2012, 12:43:20 PM
Skandia600 Skandia600 is offline
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Default Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

The temperature I got off the head: 230 degrees. As for the muffler; I got well over 500 degrees, upwards of 570 degrees. It doesn't surprise me, I expected it to get pretty warm. It does have proper air flow around the engine, I guess that these motors get kinda hot when running.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:43:00 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

As for leaving the points in question, yes you can leave them in with no connections, they will only keep the plunger in place, and will be there, if at some time in the future, someone wants to convert back to original configuration. As for engine temps, well the readings you have are not bad at all. I have seen some B&S 5HP engines turn the echaust red hot, under heavy load!

Bad gas caps - believe it or not, pretty common with the older engines, especially with the crap E-10 fuel. Alky attracts moisture, and the steel deflecter plate is just polished steel. it will rust shut. Only recourse is to redrill holes or replace the cap. If you leave it out, gas will tend to spurt out the vent, as there is nothing to stop it from going thru the large holes in the cap gasket. The new ones are plastic and the E-10 won't plug them up. With the large fuel tank, as fuel is used, vibration and heat vaporize the gas faster than you can use it, especially as the fuel level nears the bottom of the tank. When you shut the engine off, the pressure blows the fuel from the low pick up into the reservoir, which in turn blows the fuel out the pick up tube into the carb throat - where the pressure is low. Fuel then leaks to ground, where you see it, or the engine floods as it is running, leading to re-adjustments as the engine is running. This you have already noted. A full tank has the opposite problem - too much vacuum in the tank, leading to fuel starvation stalls. bad gas caps can drive you nuts!

Glad you found the problem, enjoy your engine!
Andrew
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