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Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines

K341 Rebuild?


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  #1  
Old 03-02-2008, 06:47:43 PM
Lead Head
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Default K341 Rebuild?

Hey guys,

I've got an older Kohler K341-S in an old hydrostatic Allis-Chalmers 416 tractor.

The engine is starting to burn a lot of oil. The only time it does not burn oil is if it is brand new SAE 30. Once it gets about 5 hours on the oil though, it just starts burning it like crazy, and lately i've been noticing some oil on the muffler, coating some of the fins on the starter side of the motor. When I had pulled the head off in July, had noticed that the cylinder bore seemed to have a gap around the front and back side of the piston.

I'm guessing oil on the fins and spraying on the muffler is from a bad rear seal.

I guess my question is on average, what is the cost of having the block bored/honed out, and valve seats reground if needed.

I've seen rebuild kits on ebay that include all the gaskets, connecting rod, piston and new valves, but I have no idea if t these kits are any good, as a brand is usually not listed.

Thanks in advanced.
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:24:02 PM
Sky
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Getting the block bored, honed, valves done ect. vary's from place to place, machine shop to machine shop. to get a cylinder bored and honed cost around $35 here. i've never had valves done cuz i do them myself. If the cylinder is wore bad which Kohlers are noted for, then go .010 over
that usually cleans things up. Just for the heck of it i would check to see if your crank case breather is clean first cuz when they clogg they can give same effects as if rings were bad. If you do proceed with the rebuild, try to stick with name brand parts as much as possible. avoid after market if you can. Genuine kohler parts will be stamped "Genuine Kohler" or just "Kohler"
If there after market, chances are they will be marked "Stens" are some other after market part maker.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:36:22 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

The breather is fine, I still see vapor coming out of it when its running, but I do recall when I cranked the engine with the head off, a significant amount of oil was coming past the rings.

I'm honestly not sure if .010 will be enough to bring the bore back into spec, I might need to go to .020, I really don't want to go .030, because I think that might compromise the integrity of the block.

I didn't know the K series were known to have wear issues, I thought the K engines were considered to be some of the best for their time. Although, I bet part of the issues with my engine is that my father never took proper care of the engine, never put oil in the cylinder during the winter, irregular oil changes, etc..
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:36:51 PM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

We can provide you the parts but you can also get Kohler parts closer to home I am sure. If you need anything for the tractor drop us a line from our website. www.sandylakeimp.com
Bill Klein
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:39:41 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Sandy Lake? I've contacted you guys before regarding some replacement parts for my Allis-Chalmers 416 (ignition switch, and other misc things).

Anyways, I'll see what we have local around here.

A bit OT, but you wouldn't happen to know what kind of oil and hydraulic fluid the transmission takes, as well as that gear case that takes the engines drive shaft and turns it into two pullies?
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:02:57 PM
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Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

The vapor you see at the breather is an oil mist, and will coat everything, you are on the right track
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2008, 10:58:19 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

definitly sounds like rings to me then. you can do what you want but .010 over is alot when it's said and done. dont sound like much and it isnt much acording to feeler guages and what not but when you have them bored you imidiatly see the diference. Kohlers were considered to be the best and to some loyal Kohler owners, they still are, now i dont know if they corrected the problem through the years, but some of your older Kohlers have a real short rod in them, good example is the k241 and the K341. The engines also had real sharp revolutions in the rod each engine cycle. ALMOST rocking at a 40 to 45 degree angle with the crank at the 9'Oclock & 3"Oclock position. add shortnes and that mild of angle of the rod and you get a cylinder that ware's egg shaped. Also ware on the piston skirt. Im not saying your engine will have this but dont be suprised when you pull the piston out to find perhaps scuffing on the skirt and a little perhaps, towards the top of the piston, and then again, it may turn out to be alright, but from your description, i'd still have it bored. usually you have to, other wise it stands a good possibility the engine will pop the new rings.
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Old 03-05-2008, 11:29:11 PM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

90wt in the bevel gear box, Dexron ATF in the hydro filled to the plug on the side of the reservoir tank. There is a filter in the bottom of the tank-can't be seen when the oil is full. Bill Klein
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:44:20 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

@Andrew, I do not have a pry bar, but I do have a flywheel pulling kit, I made some headway with the kit, got the flywheel to move a few MM. Guess I will try again tomorrow or later on tonight

As for the valves, both the intake and exhaust valves have little or no side to side movement at all when open. you can turn the valves, but they don't wiggle around.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2008, 08:13:19 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Heres a website with a lot of information about rebuilding Kohler's either stock or modified hope it helps.

http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/tips.htm

This information about imported parts is from the website.

Imported pistons, rings, rods and other parts hold up VERY WELL. I should know, I've used these parts in my own equipment and I've sold them to my customers. I've sold many of these parts for the past 26+ years and I haven't had one complaint from anyone. Besides, it's how well the engine block and crankshaft are machined (cylinder bored straight, crank journal reground to OEM specs, cleanliness of the parts and work area, etc.), that determines how well and how long internal engine parts hold up. Don't blame shoddy workmanship on shoddy parts.

I'm currently re-building a K321 that had a broken rod. Took the block to the automotive machine shop yesterday. They are going to bore it out .010 and grind the crank under .010. I ordered a re-build kit from ebay. Should be like new when all done.

Dave in South Dakota
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:27:38 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Interesting, I need my crank reground obviously, but I'm curious how the connecting rod is going to work, do you get shims or something? Or just an undersized rod?
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:41:53 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

The rod is ground undersize .010. I should have the block and crank back from machining Thursday I will let you know what the cost was.

The engine re-build parts probably won't be here till early next week I can give you more information at that time about the connecting rod.

Dave
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:02:51 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Alright, I heard the 10,12,14,16, and 18 HP Kohlers all use the same size connecting rod and crank? Or is it just the 12, 14, 16 and 18? If the 10HP is the same, that should at least give me an idea how it would cost.
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:44:53 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Head View Post
Alright, I heard the 10,12,14,16, and 18 HP Kohlers all use the same size connecting rod and crank? Or is it just the 12, 14, 16 and 18? If the 10HP is the same, that should at least give me an idea how it would cost.
I think 12 thru 18, BUT the 14 thru 18hp are a heavier rod for the higher stresses of the bigger engines. In oem Kohler that is the case, but I've always been told the aftermarket kits are the same rod, not HD. I'm using the aftermarket rods in two 16hp engines & doing fine though.
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:40:54 PM
olcowhand olcowhand is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Be sure to look closely at the point's cam on the camshaft. Sometimes they will wear a groove where the point's puswh pin rides. And sounds like the crank needs ground .010 under alright. But at least it's gonna be done right all the way through. Also, the grunge down the cylinder fins....very common head gasket seepage. Likely the head wasn't all that tight after all that time.
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