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Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines

K341 Rebuild?


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  #21  
Old 03-04-2008, 08:27:38 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Interesting, I need my crank reground obviously, but I'm curious how the connecting rod is going to work, do you get shims or something? Or just an undersized rod?
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2008, 10:41:53 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

The rod is ground undersize .010. I should have the block and crank back from machining Thursday I will let you know what the cost was.

The engine re-build parts probably won't be here till early next week I can give you more information at that time about the connecting rod.

Dave
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  #23  
Old 03-04-2008, 11:02:51 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Alright, I heard the 10,12,14,16, and 18 HP Kohlers all use the same size connecting rod and crank? Or is it just the 12, 14, 16 and 18? If the 10HP is the same, that should at least give me an idea how it would cost.
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  #24  
Old 03-05-2008, 11:29:11 PM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

90wt in the bevel gear box, Dexron ATF in the hydro filled to the plug on the side of the reservoir tank. There is a filter in the bottom of the tank-can't be seen when the oil is full. Bill Klein
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  #25  
Old 03-06-2008, 10:44:20 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

@Andrew, I do not have a pry bar, but I do have a flywheel pulling kit, I made some headway with the kit, got the flywheel to move a few MM. Guess I will try again tomorrow or later on tonight

As for the valves, both the intake and exhaust valves have little or no side to side movement at all when open. you can turn the valves, but they don't wiggle around.
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  #26  
Old 03-07-2008, 10:27:54 AM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

The Kohler flywheel is mounted on a taper. If you got it to move, the only thing holding the flywheel is the attraction of the flywheel magenets to the alternator stator.
In one of you pervious post you wondered about the rod if you have the cark turned 10 under. You buy a 10 under rod.

Kent
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  #27  
Old 03-07-2008, 06:39:43 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Had the crank ground undersize .010 cost $35.00 The block was de-greased, bored out the cylinder .010 and ground the valve seats cost $54.00

Just waiting for the new parts to show-up now. Hopefully be running next week.

Dave
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2008, 12:50:50 AM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Well, looks I I just imagined the flywheel moving then, still using the flywheel puller and I have gotten no where. I did what was suggested earlier, and stuck a the bolt back on, and put an aluminum shim between the crank and a hammer, but still nothing :-/
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2008, 01:49:50 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Did you ever try some stuff called Kroil? if not, these are just words but, you get some kroil, put it on there, i tell ya that stuff goes were no oil DARES to go Kroil is a very strong penitraiting oil and i even stack that stuff against PB blaster, and PB blaster is GOOD stuff! Kroil is expensive though. Runs about 65 dallors a gallon out of the eastwood automotive restoration magazine, but cheaper aresol cans are available.
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2008, 02:22:15 PM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Most Kohler flywheels have four threaded holes, 3/8 inch-16 threads per inch, around the crank. The puller I use is a flat piece of 1/2 inch aluminum with two holes that line-up with two of these four hole. Install this with a coupe of 3/8 bolts, tighten, and maybe a bump from a hammer and the flywheel is off.

Kent
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  #31  
Old 03-08-2008, 04:32:15 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

i put the puller on, and gave my wrench that was attached to the puller a good whack with hammer, and the only thing it did was just tighten it up. Its a snap on puller too.
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  #32  
Old 03-08-2008, 04:40:46 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

like mentioned....put some penitraiting oil on it. If you cant get Kroil get some pb blaster, cant get PB blaster get some 3 in one oil, if that dont do it, put some heat on it. trust me i aint been doin this for 13 years for nothin. lol

Last edited by Sky; 03-08-2008 at 04:46:09 PM.
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  #33  
Old 03-12-2008, 11:17:53 PM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Tried a bunch of PB Blaster and it still wont budge I really want to give it a good whack with a hammer, but I don't want to risk braking the flywheel or crankshaft.
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  #34  
Old 03-14-2008, 02:40:54 PM
olcowhand olcowhand is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Be sure to look closely at the point's cam on the camshaft. Sometimes they will wear a groove where the point's puswh pin rides. And sounds like the crank needs ground .010 under alright. But at least it's gonna be done right all the way through. Also, the grunge down the cylinder fins....very common head gasket seepage. Likely the head wasn't all that tight after all that time.
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  #35  
Old 03-14-2008, 02:44:53 PM
olcowhand olcowhand is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Head View Post
Alright, I heard the 10,12,14,16, and 18 HP Kohlers all use the same size connecting rod and crank? Or is it just the 12, 14, 16 and 18? If the 10HP is the same, that should at least give me an idea how it would cost.
I think 12 thru 18, BUT the 14 thru 18hp are a heavier rod for the higher stresses of the bigger engines. In oem Kohler that is the case, but I've always been told the aftermarket kits are the same rod, not HD. I'm using the aftermarket rods in two 16hp engines & doing fine though.
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  #36  
Old 03-14-2008, 02:49:57 PM
olcowhand olcowhand is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Head View Post
Tried a bunch of PB Blaster and it still wont budge I really want to give it a good whack with a hammer, but I don't want to risk braking the flywheel or crankshaft.
If your puller uses a center pulling bolt, I'd use an air impact, set at a lower setting so as to vibrate it more than anything, once some pressure has been applied. The shock of the impacts likely will pop it loose. I shy from hitting the puller bolt at times, due to the fact that when removing one that way on my welder with K241, when I struck the puller bolt (hit squarely & not too hard), the threaded portion of the crankshaft broke off!! Now that was a mood altering event! I welded it back on with nickel rod & still holding fine after 10+ years, but will never forget the feeling I got as that hunk of crank rolled across the shop floor!
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  #37  
Old 03-15-2008, 09:29:39 AM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

I took those off weekly at work. Tighten you puller tight as you dare, then hit the center jack screw a medium blow with a 1 1/2 to 2 pound (big) hammer. It may really jump so don't let it fall on your foot.
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  #38  
Old 03-21-2008, 10:26:35 AM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Well I tried that and she still didn't move. My father just got back from a long business trip, and he said to try hitting the flywheel key back down while pulling the flywheel off. I noticed that the flywheel did seem to move 2mm or so, and the key came wit hit.
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  #39  
Old 03-21-2008, 11:15:27 AM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

If the flywheel EVER moves it will fall off because the flywheel is mounted on a TAPPERED shaft. Could you post a picture of your pulling set-up so we can see what your problem is?

Kent
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  #40  
Old 03-21-2008, 11:27:49 AM
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Default Re: K341 Rebuild?

Well in that case, i'm not sure if it moved then, it looked like it, but now I'm not sure.
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