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Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines

Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul


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  #1  
Old 05-09-2008, 03:54:09 AM
squarend squarend is offline
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Default Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

I have lurked around these forums for a while, and now need help. I have a Tecumseh H30 engine that I am going to be replacing the piston rings on (This is for my sons go kart not a mower!) I do not have a diagram or manual, but nerveless have undone the 7 bolts that hold on the side cover, only to find that the cover lifts about 2mm at most. So I now need help in getting the cover off beyond the 2mm, has anyone dismantled one of these engines?
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:16:18 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Tecumseh H30

The crank case end cover is called a sump cover or plate.
First, push the sump plate back on, and make sure there is NO rust on the crank shaft, and that there are absolutely no burrs on the crank, especially near the keyway. Any rust, or burrs will tear up the plain aluminum bearing on the sump plate. When that is done, lightly oil the crank, and try again. As the sump plate moves, make sure the gasket breaks clear. Even though it is thin, you would be surprised how much tension it takes to break it loose! The gasket should be replaced anyway. NOTE! the gasket comes in different thicknesses - the gasket width determines crank end play. Get an assortment, and add/remove to get the play you need - a couple of thousandths at most. Gently twist the plate back and forth about 1/2 an inch, to help the cam come out of the bearing support in the sump. Also, it's best if you place the engine flywheel side down, when removing the sump plate. This will keep the cam and valve lifters in place, as you remove the sump. When removing the cam, Note where the lifters are placed-exhaust and intake. This will save time and effort when clearancing the valves later. If the engine has a plain aluminum cylinder, follow the instructions in the ring set - if cast iron, get yourself a cylinder glaze breaker, and hone the cylinder. DON'T use it on the aluminum! The aluminum bore is treated to harden, and if the surface is broken thru, the cylinder will wear rapidly. The new ring sets are designed to seat rapidly. On the new techempseh engines, SAE 5W-20 is recommended for break in (5 Hrs), and then 10W-30 thereafter. While you have the head off, check the valve stem clearance - shake the heads of the valves. If they move more than 1/8 on an inch, they could pass oil, and make the engine smoke. If the cylinder is scored (heavily scratched), new rings won't help.
Andrew
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:17:18 AM
dightonford dightonford is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

Here you go:

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:39:16 PM
squarend squarend is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

Still won't come free, there is no keyway on this side of the crankshaft, and the crank is free from rust or burrs, I cannot rotate the sump because I cannot lift free it high enough over the locating pins in the engine casing. I can only think that there is a circlip on the crankshaft under the oil seal? If so how do I get the oil seal off without damaging it. Thanks for the handbook, but it generalizes rather than being for my H30 model,
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:45:14 PM
dightonford dightonford is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

On page 84 of the manual I linked you to, it shows a snap ring under the oil seal in diagram # 18 (if I'm looking at the picture correctly). Good luck, hope this helps.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:46:49 PM
dightonford dightonford is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

H30-HS50 horizontal
crankshaft engines with ball bearings on the crankshaft require the oil seal and the snap ring to be removed prior
to the cylinder cover removal.
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:09:16 AM
squarend squarend is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

It would seem that I need to get to the snap ring under the oil seal as you have all pointed out to me. I do not have a special tool for this, is there a easy way to remove the seal, or is a thin bladed screw driver the only way to prie the seal out ?
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Old 05-10-2008, 04:34:41 AM
dightonford dightonford is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

If it was me, I would use a dent-puller style seal remover which would screw into the metal casing of the seal and allow you to pull it out. Using a screwdriver might damage the aluminum lip around the seal.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:35:06 PM
squarend squarend is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

Thanks for the all help; I do not have a range of tools that could do the job(s) required, so I had to be inventive. I have included some pictures that speak a million words. I got the seal out by drilling a small hole in the seal body for a small self tapping screw and levered it out. The circlip/snap ring was then removed and the casing came off real easy. The piston rings seamed good and had lots of spring, but on closer inspection the diameter was worn. The rings were replaced with a new set (bore and piston were all good) and a home made ring compressor was used to put the piston back (I offset the oil control ring with the gap away from the valves in a side valve setup to lesson the oil suck/blowback) Engine goes back into sons Kart to replace a Honda G200. I am working on a CDI module to replace the points (this would work on almost any petrol engine) if anyone is interested I will write this up with pictures.
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:35:27 PM
dightonford dightonford is offline
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Default Re: Tecumseh H30 teardown and overhaul

Looks good, I'd like to hear more about your ignition setup. Good improv with the tools, anyone can buy the right tools, only some can make what they have work.....(anonymous poet)!!
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