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Garden Tractors and Mowers Vintage lawn and garden tractors, mowers, snow blowers, snowmobiles and other old machinery that is driven by small air cooled engines.

Garden Tractors and Mowers

'38 Standard Twin


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  #1  
Old 04-20-2015, 06:25:12 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default '38 Standard Twin

New to me is this 1938 Standard Twin s/n 38C3530 on steel. Not running...yet. I'm looking for a source for a Wico series A cap and rotor. A supplier in Canada if possible ;-)

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  #2  
Old 04-20-2015, 06:47:58 PM
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Mike Schweikert Mike Schweikert is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Looks very familiar...I've got 2 38's...

Try

www.standardmagneto.com/



Standard Magneto Sales Company, Inc. 4119 West Grand Ave. Chicago, Illinois 60651. Phone 1-800-MAGNETO (1-800-624-6386) Fax 1-773-235-2996.
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Mike Schweikert
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See my videos at: http://www.youtube.com/user/standardtwin1
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2015, 09:32:20 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Thanks Mike. I'll give them a call.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:07:53 AM
Jeff LaCrone Jeff LaCrone is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

I found a new cap at a show one time but they wanted $75 for it.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:26:23 AM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff LaCrone View Post
I found a new cap at a show one time but they wanted $75 for it.
Ouch! Is there a less correct two cylinder cap that's more common?
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:02:09 PM
Jeff LaCrone Jeff LaCrone is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

I never found one. Just kept on buying junkers for $75 to $100 and had 15 to 20 of them. I got rid of them last spring, all but 1 36 Viking Twin.
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:13:52 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

I spoke with Standard Magneto this morning and they're unable to supply a cap. I'm not above making one from scratch. Has anyone done this before or heard of a successful home solution?
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:50:37 PM
Jeff LaCrone Jeff LaCrone is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Do you need steel lugs? I might still have some. Good luck making one. I never tried that. You might already know but that isn't a correct fuel tank. You have the right carburetor but it,s missing the air cleaner. The fan cover on the front is in good shape. They are dented up a lot of times or rusted out because mice built nests in them and rusted them out. They are gone a lot of the time. That's why I had so many of them. I still have some of literature for them and some decals I had reproduced for them.
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:20:40 AM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

I am going to be needing lugs. I'm not sure if it would have had angle iron or pyramids (and either would serve my purposes). If you have spares I'm interested Jeff.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:40:34 PM
Jeff LaCrone Jeff LaCrone is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

They are cast iron pyramids.Send me a PM. Thanks
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:10:23 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

There's room for improvement but this first attempt at making a distributor cap is showing promise.



---------- Post added at 07:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

and the inside...

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Old 04-27-2015, 11:54:31 PM
hardinge hardinge is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

That is an impressive bit of work there Greg, is that 3D printing or did you make a mold?
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:53:29 AM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

3D printing is waaay beyond me at this point. This one was cast in a very simple rubber mold. Having cast a test part I can see how I can improve things. The plastic part of the cap should be no problem. Now I have to decide how to add the contacts/posts. I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion. I've got a '47 Southbend 9" model C lathe but am no machinist. At this point I'm thinking I'll need 4 face plate fixtures.
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:42:50 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Personally, I would drill 1/4" holes where the output pickups would be, and make brass inserts to fit snugly into the holes. machine 1/2 of the brass post about 1/4 inch from the end, and epoxy into the cap with the numachined part facing outside. The end of the machining should be flush with the cap interior (machined area sticks into the open interior 1/4"). You want to make sure the distance between the 2 post machined areas, once installed has about 10 thousandths between the rotor center and the rotor face (center to face +.020" total distance. You could also machine the outer end of the post to accept a spark plug connector (machine to look like a plug top). I do not remember if the rotor has a spring steel wiper for the center, or if it is just a brass tab, with the cap having a receptor and carbon contactor for the center. If the rotor has the spring contacter, then a plain brass center can be used. If not, then you will have to figure on making a brush holder into the center contact.
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:12:04 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Thanks Andrew. That's about what I was thinking only I thought I'd insert the brass posts first turning them concentric and to size after the epoxy set. The fixturing, I fear, will be tedious.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:27:49 PM
Nathan K. Nathan K. is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Hi Greg,
Nice work when you get it perfected maybe you could go in to production!. What part of bc are you in?.
Nathan.
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  #17  
Old 04-29-2015, 09:18:00 AM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

I'm on the island Nathan.
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  #18  
Old 04-29-2015, 01:00:41 PM
Jeff LaCrone Jeff LaCrone is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

Greg, I havent forgot about the lugs. I'll let you know when I find them. Jeff
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:16:18 PM
Greg M Greg M is offline
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Default Re: '38 Standard Twin

No worries Jeff. It's going to be a while before she's ready for work.
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