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Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)


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  #1  
Old 11-23-2008, 12:56:12 AM
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Default Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Well its done basically. After many many many months of work and years of research. Its done.
My big briggs b is all done all that is left is orgional decals and a few touch ups with paint. She is all nice and tight so i have to run her. I don't want to run 30 weight non detergent in it so what would you recommend so i cont break anything. I was thinking 10-30 weight but does that come in non detergent. And if it doesn't will detergent harm anything. Fyi this is my first full restore. I have done many bits and pieces of parts for other stuff. But this is my first engine i ever owned and its done
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2008, 01:42:49 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off

10 W 30 is good for winter straight 30 W for summer. Factory recomended 20 weight. Dont know if that was detergent or non detergent. Manuals dont say. I'd guess at the time it would have been non detergent but todays detergent oil wont harm a thing providing you flushed the crankcase of possible sludge that may have been in there. I run HD in all of my engines. Detergent oil CLEANS and doest leave dirt in the crank case when you go to change oil. All the dirt comes out along with the detergent oil. On the other hand If you HAVNT flushed the crank case then i would say run non detergent. If you know what to do i would recomend the extra step though and flush the case and run HD in it. It's a wise choice. Providing you have a good engine to begin with. Running HD in a slightly wore engine may reveal worn rings in a puff of blue smoke so maybee it's better to run Non detergent in that era of engine that hasnt been rebuilt. Only reason i run HD is becouse i eaither know that particular engine is in good shape or i've rebuilt it. In the end it's your decision.
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Old 11-23-2008, 01:48:09 AM
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Talking Re: Time to show my lil jewel off

Well my lil b is a a fully restored engine. Totaly rebuilt. You name the major part and it prob is new. Every possibil thing that i know i did to it . I used to turn the engine over the compression stroke but not any more. Its tight as a drum. I cleaned out every little crack and crevis and striped out the block bare to make sure everything i can clean. So you would say that it will be good for my engine to run with 10w-30 and i wont have any problems. Also i have a thick board would that be strong enough not to bounce around too much so i can run it
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Old 11-23-2008, 01:51:20 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off

If it's been rebuilt i'd say then yes i'd go with HD 10W30 it's a good universal weight and It will keep things clean internally. Congrats on the engine. Looks nice Concerning oils i thought i might add, you can still get 20 weight and sometimes i even tend to experiment with oils and diferent weights and mixtures even with a small percentage of kerosene and i'll watch how that had an effect on a new rebuilt engine or a worn engine and were i recomend 10W30, 30 ND, or HD 10W30 or straight 30 is becouse they both seem to be a good, here i say again (universal) oil. Not too light to make a worn engine smoke and not to heavy for a fresh engine. It's just right. I do run 20 weight on my early rebuilt ones though. My early F series for an example. I try to keep originality at it's best even though EVEN THEN 10W30, 30 W ND or HD 10W30 or 30W still works just as good as any other variation. Only NON HD doesnt have cleaning properties like HD does and the only real time i would reccomend NON HD is in an engine that hasnt been flushed or is well worn.

Last edited by Sky; 11-23-2008 at 02:05:50 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:15:55 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Ok another question i have for you. So My briggs is a 1937 briggs and the bolt on the crank shaft fit that engine but when i got bob to switch out my bearing plates for good ones i had to get a new crank shaft too. so when i put the bolt on it didnt fit. What would be the sizes for the cranks. I measured the crank threads and found it was .618. the bolt was about .100 too small so what would be the correct bolt. And what would be the tpi for the threads.
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Old 11-23-2008, 02:25:37 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

On the bolt i have no idea. Do you mean the flywheel nut? If you got that crank from bob chances are he would probably know. If it's a special Briggs thred or just a common fine thred.
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Old 11-23-2008, 02:32:04 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

If your just going to let the engine run no-load then a 10w30 would be fine. If you intend to actually use the engine, use either a 20w50 or straight 30. In fact you may still have high oil consumption with the 10w30 as it gets warm. Remember this engine was designed for straight weight oils, not multigrade.
-Aaron
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:29:33 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

well the nut that went on my crank that i am not using that isnt from bob is 5/8-18 but my crank in my b has a slightly bigger flywheel nut. Also the thread pitch is finer i would suspect 20 24. Any one know what i need. The bob crank is .616 so i would need a nut that is bigger than the ones i have.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:32:04 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

i dont think i will have high oil compsumption because everything is tight. I need to put gas in it and get everythign losened up because its really, really tight.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:56:33 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Loosened up???
There shouldnt be anything tight, unless it wasnt fit right. What kind of bearing clearances are you running? Piston clearances? Ring end gaps? What seems to be tight? If its a bearing chances are your going to wreck it before its "loosened up".
-Aaron
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:58:21 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Run strait 30wt Briggs & Stratton oil that comes in the yellow or black containers that you can pick up at any lowes, home depo, tractor supply, walmart etc. etc. It is detergent obviously, and a very high quality oil and is even rated heavy duty enough for Deisel's. The 20wt oil of yesteryears is just about equivalent to a modern strait 30wt. Dont use mult-weight oils, there is no purpose in doing this and you run the risk of using/burning oil which will speed up engine wear in several different ways.

As a small side note, a brand new/freshly rebuilt engine should not be very very tight. You did oil all bearings and moving internal parts as you assembled it correct?
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:56:13 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

well the loosened up thing it will be fine. I have rebuilt many engines and i did check all my clearences and they are fine. Everything was oiled but its my main bearings. I had them replaced and i didnt get them reamed out but i had to fit them. They will be fine i just have to run them so i can get everything nice. Its like a nitro engine new they usualy are a bit tight and i just need to run it to get everything to settle right. Nothing feels like its grinding. I cant turn the engine over the compression stroke because i restored compression but it turns when i take a monkey wrench to my pulley and turn it that way. Everything is good. I need to run it to break in the rings because i had to replace the piston rings conn rod crank and main bearing plates. The valves were laped in. And i can turn over the engine by hand without leather gloves or any kind of gloves on. It just a brand new engine now.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:00:36 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Long as she's free enough to spin freeley without bind you'll be ok. It doesnt really matter if you use multi grade or not. The engines were designed to run light oil and 10 to 30 weight is light enough. I definitly wouldnt use all the fancy synthetics they offer today in a engine of yesterday becouse they werent made for synthetics but just the regular cut of oil will do. 10W30 means a body of 10 weight cold and gradually when the engine warms to operating temp you have a oil body varitation. 30 weight means it has a body of 30 at full operating temp. so multi grades actually dont faize the engine anything. The iron and aluminum dont care what kind of oil it is. Multi grade or straight engine oil or straight weight 20 or 30 ND. It dont care if it's quaker state, pennzoil, coastal oil or valvoline. Lubrication is the idea and as long as your within the oil body recomended, you'll be fine. exept in very cold winter operation. Then you may want to get an oil of 20 weight and depending on the harshness of the cold, the old timers would even dilute the oil with a teaspoon or tablespoon of kerosene. But thats the kind of cold your likely to see in arctic type weather then in the U.S.

Last edited by Sky; 11-23-2008 at 09:06:27 PM.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:32:14 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Looks great,guess I better get after my B.
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:39:29 PM
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Talking Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

hehe I have big news but Your Going to have to wait because i need 2 do something first then the world will find out.
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:48:24 PM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Are you saying the mains are binding?? Sounds like trouble to me. Oh and the comment about the 10w30 isnt exactly right, its not a "30" at opperating temp, but at a given test temperature. multigrade oils dont hold up as well in hot environments as the single grades. If I were you I would fix the binding before trying to run it. Remember, bearings dont break in when fit properly. If you have binding, you dont have oil clearance, and a good chance your going to have a seizure. It looks nice, but you have a long ways to go in learning about engine work.
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Old 11-24-2008, 12:16:39 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Just wanted to make a note that Im not trying to be mean in the slightest, just pointing out where you need to improve on. You have a good start for looks, but you need to nail the fundamentals down first. And the fundamentals are making an engines dimensions correct. Learning how to make and use build logs, recording all the dimensions of the engine, etc etc. It will all come if you have the right attitude for it. Correctly built engines dont bind, arent tight, and dont "wear in".
-Aaron

P.S. R/C hobby engines do loosen up, if they are of the ABC or ABN type construction, but we are talking wear in the microns...nothing you could measure.
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:43:31 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

He is right. ofcource. you shouldnt have any bind but a bearing that has no play but still turns freely is JUST right. My comment on oils were from the actual training i went through to be certified but to each his own. engines will break in but you shouldnt have to literally wear them in. Im not taking sides and im sure you know what your doing but do make sure in ANY bearings case you have oil clearance. atleast .001 to .002 clearance MAX in a bearing is just right. anything more is considered ware and anything tighter is too tight.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:42:41 AM
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Talking Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Well everything is turning right but since i have new rings they havent established that seating patern. I was taught how to measure out every place on an engine and what to do to do it correctly. I also know how to read the reject sizes. I dont know everything but i do know some stuff.
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:02:10 AM
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Default Re: Time to show my lil jewel off (Briggs B)

Hmmm ok, from your previous post I had the idea that your mains were binding and you had to somehow "fit" them to the shaft. Yes the old style ring packs do wear in to some degree, what hone finish did you use? Did you hone all the edges of the rings, or just put them in? Whats your end gaps? It sounds like you have the ambition, but really need to sit down with an engine person.
-Aaron
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