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Oil Field Engines & Related Equipment

In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.


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  #1  
Old 04-18-2007, 10:22:01 PM
DirtbikePilot DirtbikePilot is offline
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Unhappy In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

I bought a 20 hp Bessemer from a not-so-trustworthy individual a few months ago and was told that it would run with some honing. I called Niagra piston ring works to order some rings and was told that I would be wasting my money after I explained the state of the cylinder. They said the 0.030 taper from the exhaust port to the head end and the remaining pits (still large) would leave me with almost no compression after putting in the new rings.

I took the cylinder to a machine shop that has the ridgid hones necessary and told them to do their best with it. They're good people and they did the best they could, but it's pretty hopeless.

I'm left with two options: either I get a new cylinder for it, or I accept my losses (~1800 so far) and send it to the scrap yard. I've spent pretty much all I can on this and I really regret every buying it. Does anyone have a cylinder for this that won't cost a ton?
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Old 04-18-2007, 11:25:28 PM
Frank Martin Frank Martin is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

I don't know much about this type of engine but is it possible that you could bore the cylinder oversize and install a sleeve?
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:09:53 AM
DirtbikePilot DirtbikePilot is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

Yes, but I could buy a complete running engine for less than the cost of getting this cylinder sleeved. It would run about 2400 to get it sleeved. It's going to the scrap yard LONG before I do that.
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Old 04-19-2007, 01:07:18 AM
DirtbikePilot DirtbikePilot is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

Well, I've decided that I'm just going to accept the fact that I got screwed and move on. I don't have enough money to go any farther with this engine and it's going to get scrapped. If anyone wants it, I'll sell it for scrap price if you will come and get it within the next couple of weeks.
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:40:20 AM
Eric M. Eric M. is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

Tarnation. I hate to see it go to such a bad end. If you can hold on a bit, I will get the opinion of the museum near me on whether they would want it or not.
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:42:59 AM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

I am sorry that you have run into problems. That said, if I were you, I would put the engine back together with the new rings. This type of engine can tolerate a lot of wear and pitting in the bore and still run OK. You will need to see to it that the piston rod packing is good and that the ignition system and mixer valve are working right. You might set the crank bearings a little on the loose side to reduce friction to aid in starting. When assembling, some people put #2 grease on the piston to help seal the new rings. If you can get the engine started, I think you will find that it will run better the longer it runs, and that after a few hours of run time it will run just fine. The engine is not junk, it is just another old engine that needs some TLC. Remember that many old engines had some type of compression release to aid in starting them. The engine will start and run with low compression if everything else is right.
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:54:10 AM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

If you did not already buy new rings for the engine, using the old ones is an option, or if you will post the exact bore size, number of rings, and ring width, someone probably has some good ones laying around. I may have some. I have a several sets of good or new rings for various old engines. They can be boxed up and shipped to you cheaply. Measure the bore at the crankshaft end, just back of the exhaust ports. Measure the 3rd or 4th ring groove from the head end of the piston for both width and depth.
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:12:19 AM
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Doug Waggonner Doug Waggonner is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

I agree with Patrick 110% one of my 1st engines a Fairbanks, had MAYBE 10 lbs of compression . And you talk about the smoothest running damn thing! When it fired it was a smooth poooooooooof. Just to do what we do with the old engines, i.e. sit back and watch em spin, it dont take much compression at all to accomplish this. On my 35hp Superior the back of the cyl has about .150 thou clearance and it has a TON of compression, with the origional rings! So dont throw in the towl , put it back together, grease up the piston and run it.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:13:26 AM
DirtbikePilot DirtbikePilot is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

Ok guys, thanks for the replies. I was getting REALLY frustrated yesterday at the thought of putting all this work into it and it being junk. I guess I'll give it a try. It still needs a ton of work though. I'm still skeptical because if the blowby goes behind the piston, it won't run.

The rings are 1/2 inch wide and the bore is 9.5 inches. I'm not sure what the depth of the groove is, but it's pretty close to 3/8 inch. If anyone has some cheap rings that they don't want, I'd surely appreciate it. It takes 5 of these buggers and all the old rings had to be broken to remove accept the one in the back.
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Old 04-19-2007, 02:25:23 PM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: In need of a 20 hp Bessemer cylinder.

I will check and see if I have any rings that size. Measurements need to be exact. I doubt if you will have a serious blowby problem, since some of the rings are located way down the bore even when the piston is at TDC. The piston rod helps to hold the piston straight in the bore on these engines by eliminating side thrust, and the speed and working pressures are relatively low. The length of the piston also helps to stabilize it, and it spreads the ring locations out down the length of the bore. The .030 taper in a 9.5" bore on a crosshead engine is not as serious as it would be in a Chevy 350. You would need around .010 to .015 piston clearance on this engine anyway, so the .030 taper would leave you only about .007 over at the head end of the bore on each side of the piston. When the engine is warmed up, this clearance will tighten up some, and the oil film and carbon deposition will help a little, too. The 5 wide rings and long, full skirted piston will help hold compression even with the pitted bore.
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