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Oil Field Engines & Related Equipment

Reid 15 hp gas air metering


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  #21  
Old 07-21-2008, 10:46:38 PM
dannyinky dannyinky is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Hi Jim, when I had a 15 hp REID it started easy. I shut the air intake almost all the way( if it still has the orginal air valve you can shut it all the way because it has four tiny holes in the back of the air valve that will allow enough air),mine did not have the piston in the gas valve, I just used the ball valve to adjust the gas. Next open the gas valve a little, turn on the tank for for about 5 seconds then close the tank valve, rock the flywheels back and forth a couple of times and on the third time pull it backwards until the mag trips or the hot tube fires the mixture, hurry and turn the tank back on then slowly adjust the gas on the ballvalve until she is running good then you can play with the air and gas mixture and get her running like you want.
Wish that old REID was still setting in my shed or on the trailer ready to go to the show at Paris KY this weekend.
Danny
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2008, 10:58:14 PM
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OldironPhil OldironPhil is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

HELLO. I have a 1904 reid 15. Where would the releif valve be located. There is a hole on top between the cylinders that was pluged off. It is close to the main cylinder. Is that it. Mine was converted to a spark plug at one time on the main cylinder, I have put it back to a hot tube. They were running the spark plug where the hot tube was, using a addapter. I have not tryed to start yet still working on other parts. Would this allso be called a priming hole by some. This hole looks like it is from the factory and not the one that would be drilled for a spark plug. THANKS. Phil
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  #23  
Old 07-22-2008, 12:36:04 AM
Joel Sanderson Joel Sanderson is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Sounds like you found it, Phil. The manual shows the release cock looking like it has a cup on top, like a priming cup, but it says nothing about using it for that that I have found. This is directly above the main valve.

Another thought, Jim: how are you determining your gas setting? It's been awhile, so someone please correct me if I'm telling it wrong here. Screw a 6" nipple into the 2" air inlet. With the engine cold and everything sitting still, turn the gas on and light the gas coming out of this pipe. (This sounds crazy, but it worked.) Adjust the gas valve until the flames reach only to the top of the engine. (The flat between the cylinders) Note where your valve is set. This should be a good starting point for what your engine will run on. (I would credit who told me that, but I'm not sure he'd want me to.) Now I'm doubting myself...was it a couple inches above the engine??

You'll get it.
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:19:30 AM
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

You are correct on the pipe into the air inlet, I have been told this by some oldtimers. And I did see a photo of this being done on an internet site. It looks like the cup was broken off on mine and just the plug was left in, will drill and tap out. THANK YOU Joel and best of luck to you Jim.
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:36:43 PM
Jim Gorter Jim Gorter is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Joel, Thanks for the great tips on the starting procedures. I have no reference point to start to determine the proper gas setting on this Reid, but I assume that if I can see gaseous propane coming out the air inlet the supply system is working. Now I just need to keep trying different settings to try to find the ellusive "sweet spot"
I have replumbed the gas inlet line from 1/2 inch pipe to 1 inch. I feel this will give me more low pressure volume when this old girl finally does start. I have the gasometer pressure at about 6 inches of H20 column. My hot tube gets dull orange with the needle valve wide open. Im not sure if I need to get the tube hotter than this. If so, I will need a regulator with a higher outlet pressure. Or a separate tank and regulator for the hot tube. I need to keep as many variables the same so I can try the different settings on the valve without figuring the other factors.
Sounds like I need to get a bigger ice chest. Thanks, Jim.
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Old 07-22-2008, 09:34:30 PM
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Mike Monnier Mike Monnier is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Your hot tube is probably hot enough, but typically the burner should be fed unregulated tank pressure. This will give you a lot more control of the burner. Be cautious using a 1" valve as it is extremely easy to flood the engine. If it's a diamond type valve, I would suggest making a mark on the dial at the point it just starts to crack open. You won't have to go very far past that point to have plenty of fuel to run.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:18:42 PM
Jim Gorter Jim Gorter is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Good Morning, Tues after work, I pulled the charge cylinder rod to check copper ring sealing as per Joels advice. The fuel valve would chatter when I pulled the charge cylinder back and was hard to push in, but eventually would go. I could not hear any leaks and Didnt have a way to spray soapy water and push on the rod at the same time. On the top seal test, when I pulled the main cylinder over, compression would push out the charge cylinder a little bit, so the top seal was leaking, or the main valve not sealing.
I decided to try to tighten up the main valve a bit more, which helped to hold the charge compression but the back pressure would still move the charge piston. I think The Idea of using a different material on the lower ring is the key here. Would like to know where you guys found your different material for the lower o ring. looking forward to getting this one running. Thanks, Jim.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:25:23 PM
Jim Gorter Jim Gorter is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Monnier View Post
Your hot tube is probably hot enough, but typically the burner should be fed unregulated tank pressure. This will give you a lot more control of the burner. Be cautious using a 1" valve as it is extremely easy to flood the engine. If it's a diamond type valve, I would suggest making a mark on the dial at the point it just starts to crack open. You won't have to go very far past that point to have plenty of fuel to run.
Thanks Mike, I still am using the original 1/2 inch valve with the graduated scale. I just increased the pipe size from the valve to the fuel mixer. SAo the 1/2 inch valve is still the narrow point. Jim.
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Old 07-23-2008, 11:34:14 PM
Joel Sanderson Joel Sanderson is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Jim,

I sent you an e-mail, the main points of which I will repeat here in case you didn't get it. (I just don't know about these computor things.)

If the air piston is forced out, that is the upper gasket leaking (or the valve). The O-ring will not work there because of the heat and pressure. (I tried it.) The upper gasket has to be metal. The problem is, if there is any pitting in the lip in the seat or the valve, you won't be able to get it to seal no matter what. These steps are so ridiculously small, it doesn't take much for them to leak. I'd check that first; crawl underneath with a flashlight and take a good look up inside. If it is pitted, it can be a devil to grind, but here's how I did it: I made, essentially, a metal mushroom, turned in my lathe to the right diameter, to which I applied valve grinding compound and spun with a 5/8 drill. Use the oil-based compound, not the water based. The water dries out, and it won't work. I made a second ring on the mushroom near the drill's end to serve as a guide to keep everything concentric. After an hour or so on your back, you'll have a nice smooth seat.
For the valve itself, check it and its seat with a little ink, and spin it; if it is contacting all around, it will wear the ink off all around.

Form a gasket compound won't work because the pressure just blows it out. In my opinion, these gaskets are the weakness of the Reid engine.

Be sure to measure the distance between the seats' steps and those on the valve body. They should be the same. It is possible that the valve on your engine came from another engine and doesn't match. Get a dial caliper up in there and measure it. If they don't match, turn the valve body so they are the same.

I actually warped my upper valve seat when I was having exhaust problems I didn't know about, and I had to regrind it. It also turned out that the area in my water jacket surrounding the valve was filled with debree which prevented it from cooling properly. You might want to take the hand covers off and see what you find. That area is a dead end in the water's flow, so things tend to settle in there and stay. Of course, my engine is worked under load, so the heat is more of an issue.

Here is the McMaster part number and phone number for the Viton o-ring for the bottom:

(630)833-0300 (McMaster's Ph #)

Viton O-ring (-31º to +400º F): pt# 9464k549 ($11.92 for 5)

My book is a bit out of date, so the price is probably low, but at least is should give you some idea. The o-ring that is in my engine at the moment has been in service for about year and a half now, and it is still good.

Joel
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  #30  
Old 07-24-2008, 09:37:23 AM
Ray Ethridge Ray Ethridge is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Great information Joel, thanks. I am not quite there with my 20 HP I am rebuilding but was already to the point of trying to figure out just exactly how I would attack the seals problem. One thing I know for certain, there is NO blowby on my pistons right now. Once I get em moving that might be another story!

Ray Ethridge
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