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Oil Field Engines & Related Equipment

Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!


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  #71  
Old 10-18-2015, 09:05:27 AM
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Reed Engine Reed Engine is offline
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

The little dipper part number is 5415-118. I'm sure someone close to you would have them.
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  #72  
Old 10-18-2015, 11:57:41 AM
dkamp dkamp is offline
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

Yep, according to UPS, USPS, VISA and The Internet, Hominy, Oklahoma is pretty close. ;-)

I'm gonna look it over closely and see if there's anything else I need...

Uh... a set of cylinder head studs would be a good idea... that one that broke off has been temporarily replaced with a cheezy piece of all-thread....

Should I pull off the evap radiator for a cleaning and inspection? any suggestions re. TLC for the fan? Since I have the crank cover off, how about a gasket?

Oh, and the clutch IS a lever-type, but the lever assembly is missing, and the clutch is seized. I'll give that a little work-over and see if I can get it free.

BTW, rod bearing is nice and snug... actually, the insert looks surprisingly new.

What would cause the dipper to become broken off in several pieces? no water in there, so it didn't freeze... ?
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  #73  
Old 10-18-2015, 02:19:58 PM
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

Should I pull off the evap radiator for a cleaning and inspection? any suggestions re. TLC for the fan? Since I have the crank cover off, how about a gasket?

If the radiator isn't leaking at running temp leave it alone. If the old gasket is intact it's good enough.

What would cause the dipper to become broken off in several pieces?

Just one of them things. At least they are cheap.
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:53:22 AM
dkamp dkamp is offline
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

Thanks Eddie!

Okay, so the dipper DID NOT break off. After finally finding the bottom of the sump, what I THOUGHT were fragments of the dipper, appear to be pieces of a long-since-gone rod bearing insert... they're a reddish-yellow metal (brass or bronze I'm guessing), with a lip along the edge, and after comparing them to the outside view of the rod bearing (which is surprisingly clean and fresh looking), it's clear that they weren't from the dipper, and the dipper's shape was basically unscathed, it just 'felt' wierd when I was feeling around in there... so false alarm there.

The sump on these gals is not just flat, it's got a 'tray' that the dipper dips into, then throws oil forwards towards the piston... and somehow, it also flings it up onto the gears... I don't see how, but I have faith that it works, as long as there's flingable oil in there (not slime speaking in toungues). To get to the bottom, I wound up pouring in a quart of mineral spirits, and letting it sit for a day, stirring occasionally, and finally it cleared out fairly well. I wiped out what I could, then poured in some inexpensive 10-30. Figure if I run it a while with this stuff, then add some thinner, then drain it, the rest of the stuff will find it's way out.

So I got it back together, was slightly challenged for a few minutes trying to re-time the magneto gear... turns out the oil filler had a pipe nipple that extended far-nuff into the case to obstruct the gear... once I backed that out, it slipped out, and slipped back in right. Had the mag rotated 180 degrees on the first try (firing BDC), so out again, flip the coupler, back again, and good to go. Added pipe fittings and a 4' piece of EMT, turned on the gas, and wound it up...

then stood there giggling...

Cooling system and governor now! Stay tuned!
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  #75  
Old 10-19-2015, 07:32:18 PM
Allan Wright Allan Wright is offline
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

Ain't it a good feeling when an engine runs for the first time. On your mag drive, there is a hole that needs to be on top when you install the mag.
My gosh my memory is failing me. I think the hole is on top.
Help me out here Eddie.
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  #76  
Old 10-21-2015, 04:40:11 PM
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Default Re: Finally... I'm an OAF! FM118 in the truck!

Yes, Allan- on the top of the magneto drive coupling, there's a hole that must align with the breather so that crankcase pressures can flow properly. I was initially vexed by re-timing, 'cause the pipe nipple from oil filler was long enough to prevent the gear from slipping all the way out... but I figured it out.

Been having problems getting it to keep coolant out of the combustion chamber... durned plug won't fire when it's all wet. Keeps blowing the head gasket on right and left side, so got the head off again, and patiently working it to flat with files and a flat wood block with sandpaper. Slow goin', but it was good'nuff for my granddady. I don't really feel up to tearing it down to a block, then lifting it into the mill... I'll just turn the music up a bit and keep exercising my arm. Wax on... wax off...
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  #77  
Old 12-20-2015, 11:28:10 AM
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Default About time for an update...

It's been a long time since my last update, but here's the latest:

After experiencing two blowouts of copper head gaskets, I finally got the deck and head smooth enough to seal tight with a new graphite one from Ed... and it's now running wonderfully, holding coolant, and a little RTV on the gasket of the magneto means no more oil leak from the top.

I put together a simple skid from square timbers, so that it's easy to pick up and move around with my forklift, but it isn't perfectly happy sitting still... I'm impressed at how lively it is even without having done any work on the cylinder or piston... so when it comes time to pull a load, it's gonna need something more substantial to sit on to keep it from walking it's way back to Wicheta Falls.

There's only two things left- fix the clutch, and paint it.

The clutch, though, has me somewhat stymied, and I was hoping that running the engine would shake it free. After visiting Ed and seeing them both functioning assembled, and one apart at his shop, I've got a fair understanding of how it's SUPPOSED to function. I've got the threaded collar backed off such that there's no pressure on the plates, but the three-groove sheave seems to be very positively adhered to the clutch plates.

I've been soaking both sides in penetrant to try to break it loose, and tried some careful prying and tapping to get it to come loose, but no luck so far.

Anybody have any good tricks for unsticking the clutch??
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