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Wisconsin Engines Single cylinder up to V4 engines.

Wisconsin Engines

Wisconsin TFD flywheel


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  #1  
Old 12-28-2011, 10:14:45 PM
Saukengines Saukengines is offline
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Default Wisconsin TFD flywheel

I have a Wisconsin TFD two cylinder engine that I was going to fix up. I put some work into it, but finally decided to part it out. I have started tearing it down. What I need to know is how to remove the flywheel. I have removed the screen from the front of the flywheel, as well as the large nut on the crankshaft. What do I do now? I can see three holes in the flywheel, but they are not threaded, so I can't put bolts in there like I would do for a Briggs. I would appreciate any help that you could offer me. Thank you very much in advance, you all have offered me great advice in the past.
Carl

P.S. If you need any parts for this engine, please contact me.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:19:35 PM
Zira Zira is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

It is a tapered shaft. You are supposed to pull on it & hit the shaft with a babbit hammer. Soak with your favorite penetrant first. I use a copper hammer & put a nut flush with the end of the shaft. If you have a puller large enough, use it to put some pressure on it. You can also use those three holes to make a puller of sorts.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:27:45 PM
Saukengines Saukengines is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Thanks for reponding. The main problem that I found was that the shroud appears to be one piece, and the back plate of the shroud won't let the shroud come off untill the flywheel is off. The shroud fits too close to the flywheel to allow a puller on the flywheel. Is this correct, or does the front of the shroud come of as a separate piece?
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:27:49 AM
Ironsides Ironsides is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Carl,I would run a whitworth tap through the holes put a puller on and apply light tension.A gentle tap on the flywheel with a soft hammer should bring it off the taper,keep cranking,Norm
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:02:09 AM
oldschoolwisconsin oldschoolwisconsin is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Hey Carl, how I removed mine from my AHH was useing PB Blaster, and a brass punch(on mine the flywheel is visible on the other side of the baffling) on the backside of the flywheel with a hammer. It worked quite well. I had to hit it considerably hard too.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:31:27 AM
Phil P Phil P is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Hi

They make a tool that I always called a threaded knocker. It is a blind nut that will screw down until the closed end comes tight to the threaded end of the crankshaft and leaves a gap between the back of the tool and the flywheel.

The older engine came with the nut on the front of the crankshaft that had the shaft and pin in it to hand crank the engine with. That also worked well.

Then strike it several times on the end of the crankshaft with a sizable hammer. Thatís strike not beat the h**l out of it. They normally come loose about the second time you hit the end on the crankshaft.

I am curious. Why are you parting it out?

Phil P
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:01:42 AM
Saukengines Saukengines is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Thanks again for all of your help. Hopefully I will be able to tear it down the rest of the way today. It is an interesting engine, so I thought it would be nice to have in running order. I put a carb kit, and a few magneto parts into it, but I think that it needs new valves, and I have other projects that I would rather spend the money on. I put the engine as a whole on engineads, but no one bit, so I am parting it out, and using the money to help fix up the Briggs and Hercules engines that I would really love to have running.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:40:19 PM
Bill Sherlock Bill Sherlock is offline
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Default Re: Wisconsin TFD flywheel

Norm,

I was going to suggest tapping the holes in the flywheel for a standard sized bolt and using a harmonic balancer type of puller to remove it. Doubt if many people have Whitworth taps & dies or bolts over in this part of the world. Having said that, I recently bought a couple of NOS 3/8" Gray sockets marked 1-8 BSW at a second hand store for 25 cents each. I'd never seen this size before but believe could be British Whitworth? Not likely I'll ever need the sockets but then again you never know.

Bill
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